Thanks for the advice, I have new crush sleeves and seals for the reassembly. Luckily the toyota dealership in my town could get the nut that I needed so it should be back together soonThey're likely still available new from Mark @ Vancouver Toyota. If not, they can be tapped and reused. You'll just be staking it in place once the proper bearing preload is set. If you had the stub axle out, you should have used a new crush sleeve and/or added a thin shim to compensate for the amount it was already crushed. I do have the height of new ones somewhere if needed. It's much easier to have the axle pressed just about all the way in, leaving a few thousandths of end play and then tightening the nut to achieve the proper preload. If and only if you took this apart to regrease the bearings and reassembled it with the same bearings, your preload will probably be OK with the nut retightened to the same place. But it would have been better to have measured the torque on that nut before removing it.
Because this is such a PITA to do, no one chooses to do it unless there's a problem or for a 5 lug conversion. Most of our cars have never had a problem in this area and have never been apart. If you replaced the bearings, just bite the bullet and remove that lower arm and have the axle pressed almost all the way in. Many years ago, I made a tool to pull the axle in properly that mimics the special tool Toyota recommends. I had to do the repair when I was home over a weekend as that was my only choice. One of the trailing arms had been replaced after an accident and the bearings failed a couple of years later because they hadn't been properly set up. Unfortunately we had moved out of state so taking it back to the shop that did the work just wasn't an option. My repair lasted 25+ years and would likely still be fine. But I decided to go 5 lug to make wheel options much cheaper and more plentiful.
When I swapped in 5 lug stub axles, I had a buddy with a huge press press them in until there was a few thousandths of endplay still. A machine shop could do the same. Then I torqued the nut until I got the proper bearing preload. If this isn't done properly, you'll be doing it again soon. And the nut won't pull the axle in without stripping. It's just not made for that.
There's a couple of very detailed threads on this and you should search for them. They're even more detailed than the factory TSRM and could save you time and headaches down the road. Hope this helps.
Incidentally, I do have a nut you could use as well as the tool I made to pull the axle in. But I really think you should just remove the trailing arm and have a shop press it ALMOST all of the way in. I don't think new crush sleeves are available anymore so I can provide the height of a new one so a proper shim can be used with your used crush sleeve.
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