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That stuff is obvious. The fabricated line in front of the radiator support the brazed fittings were warped and don't fit together with the lines. The low pressure hose that came out of the firewall was 2-3" too long and kinked when installed. I reused the stock there, but the other one I need to go and get a new line made. The compressor is also extremely difficult to install without the edge to support the compressor like the stock bracket.
 

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An extra set of hands definately comes in handy when installing the compressor.
Doing it solo sucks, been there done that.
I start the top 2 bolts, just to support it, then the lower 2 bolts, slip in the washers/spacers, take out the top 2, slide in spacers, tighten up, done.
Hardest part on the first install I did was, no pics on how the brackets went.
Alot of trial and error there till I got it figured out.
I didn't have any problem with the line out of the firewall being that long.
 

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PhilG just emailed me.

Looks like it was a good time. The evaporator is a pill. If I ever replace one again,
I'm just going to additionally remove the upper dash panel, plus give all the duct work a cleaning.

40-45F at the vents is a good range. I've seen ~40F on mine at idle.
Recirc ON, next to highest fan speed, front electric fan on, 80F outside ambient.

When driving, there's more air exchange as well as the compressor is pumping more.
I recall mine hit 36/37F. BruceM noted as close to 32F on one of his
several status calls to me. :D

Greg - nice job on cleaning your evaporator.

Compressor Brackets - I used some hold down belts to position it. Still sucked.
Best to have a friend handy, as it will make short time of the install.

Aaron - shoot me an email on what you are having trouble with.
I have heard a few found the evap to EPR hose too long. Other's did not.
I did line them up once I got them, and none appeared too long.
Though I suspect the hose line is rather hard, and a 1/4" variance might
create the situation you encountered.

Leaving it uncharged - certainly it's a good idea to get it charged in a reasonable time frame once installed.
Since Phil keeps his whip stored, he should be ok.

I concur. A few of these pics could have alternate captions. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Did you get pics of the mouse hole in your blower fan?
I only wish they choked on the plastic and died.... but gratefully not while in the blower housing.





 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
So while it reached 72F today (I know... hardly AC weather), I wanted to further test the system.

I let the car idle in my driveway with the compressor running for approx 20-25miins. Steady 40F blowing thru the vents. At roughly the 25min point, I snapped these pix of the suction lines with a slight frosty coating at the compressor and just forward of the radiator support. Does this suggest freezing up? I ask because the vent temp crept up to 45-48 F. I dont think the Evaporator was freezing because the suction line at the firewall was merely "sweating".

All pix taken approx same time...











 

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Discussion Starter #28
That stuff is obvious. The fabricated line in front of the radiator support the brazed fittings were warped and don't fit together with the lines. The low pressure hose that came out of the firewall was 2-3" too long and kinked when installed. I reused the stock there, but the other one I need to go and get a new line made. The compressor is also extremely difficult to install without the edge to support the compressor like the stock bracket.
Aaron.... not gonna say these arent legitimate problems, only that I didnt have any of these issues. My brazing was nice and neat.

Yours is a 7M application right? Perhaps that amplifies the hose tolerance issues and makes the compressor mounting more difficult?
 

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so how bad was changing the condensor and expansion valve behind the dash? i have a brand new mk2 compressor and new toyota hoses coming off it an plan to buy a new heater core, expansion valve, and evaporator and drier and get my 84 7mgte going with real r12 like it was designed for. ill be replacing all o rings and all shrader valves as well just to be safe. just wondering as i am thinking of buyin the rest of the stuff as soon as my tax rebate gets here.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Hey William... the condensor is pretty easy. Joe suggested we pull the hood latch and header reinforcement bracket rather than drop the radiator. I think that made things a little easier.

But the Evaporator is a pain in the ass no matter what you do. Seems like everything gets removed from the dash and center console to get it out. On the bright side, I think its a terrible mistake to NOT yank the evaporator when redoing the AC system. After seeing the crap clung to both ours, I doubt it wld ever cool if we didnt clean them out. My sure most all mk2's wld look similar by now.

Whats the going rate for R12 anyways these days?
 

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when i checked at pepboys its like $36 a pound. i got a brand new comprssor and the lines on the cheap so figure why not. just slap the ford compressor clutch and pulley on it and mount it up. not changing the thing up front by the rad. its already clean and no bent fins, but im wiring a relay to kick my dual electric fans on when the a/c is on so i can get rid of the stock crappy fan. itll make more room for my i/c and oil cooler. i need a heater core anyway and figure as old as the car is that evaporator might have a pin hole leak and might as well change it when i do the expansion valve. its only like $40. cheap insurance. plus after seein the pics of yours all clogged up i want to make sure mine isnt. lol. man that has to suck. prolly the main prob with mosty peoples a/c system. sine the shrader valves leaked all the freze 12 out the blue car i think im gonan try pulling the evaporator to clean it before recharging as well after seeing your pics. how long did it take to get out? any tips or tricks i should know to make it easier?
 

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Start out with removing the lower left side of the dash, obviously.
Remove the center console from the shifter forward.
Take off the lower dash support that is bolted to the stereo and heater control, right side on the bottom. Small bracket, bent like an "L", 2 12mm head bolts.
Remove the stereo.
Remove the ECU, and vent work by the ECU.
It's alot easier to get the section behind the stereo out and back in again with stereo out of the way. It's possible to get it back in with the deck in place, but it's a nightmare.
Take off the rubber grommet on the outside of the firewall where the AC lines come through.
Another obvious point is, disconnect all the wiring just by unplugging everything. No need to remove the relays and other wiring off the core till the box is out.
Pulling the core box out from there should be easy from there.
4 or 5 nuts and out it comes.
Doesn't take long to get out, maybe half hour tops.
 

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awesome! thanks. prolly do that to the blue car this weekend to clean any crap that is likely built up in there.
 

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Whats the going rate for R12 anyways these days?
Assuming you can buy it - takes an easy to obtain license, and $30-70/can. On the other hand, the not formally approved (and much less explosive than R-134a) ES-12a (Envirosafe) is about $5/can.

If you have a leaky AC system, you should not be putting R-12 into it - R-12 needs to go away (I took Chemistry from Professor Sherwood, later awarded the Nobel Prize in Chemistry on this), but R-134 is not a single source solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Assuming you can buy it - takes an easy to obtain license, and $30-70/can. On the other hand, the not formally approved (and much less explosive than R-134a) ES-12a (Envirosafe) is about $5/can.
Thanks... I wldve expected the straight R12 to cost alot more these days.

Any thoughts abt the the hose pix I posted on 5/04... thread #27?
 

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You guys have inspired me to fix mine ,, When I first turn on my A/C it makes some noise , it usually goes away.. Unless I leave it at low speed ..
 

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Thanks... I wldve expected the straight R12 to cost alot more these days.

Any thoughts abt the the hose pix I posted on 5/04... thread #27?
As for R12 pricing, depends on where you live. Pricing is supply/demand. It's easier to get in southern states. More north, it's more expensive and sometimes a bear to find someone that will even have it. Especially finding a shop that still has the R12 reclaiming equipment.

When I started the R134 AC project a few years ago, I wanted to check R12 prices. For those that even carried it, I was looking at a $200+ recharge (R12, labor, reclaiming/disposal charge).

Greg - the line "sweating" in your pics is perfectly normal. :D
 
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