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Discussion Starter #43
Just wanted to profess my love for JDK...

Got the car all detailed for next weekend today and took her for a quick spin. Ambient temp was 82F out and Im blowing 34F at the vents the entire time.

Yeah my nips got hard.

Im so psyched that I can enjoy the car a lot more this summer.
 

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I have been informed by our a/c guy that you can as good results from 134 if you increase your air flow through ypur condensor and I was considering the flex-a-lite dual 10" pusher in front of the condensor has anyone tried this yet with positve results? and would I need to add heavier wiring and alt?
 

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Just wanted to profess my love for JDK...
Hey now.:inout7xr:

Glad it's creating the frosty nip factor.

Of course, big props to you Greg (and PhilG, BruceM, Kurt) for the encouragement
one of our NE spring meets for me to start investigating this project.

Simply, we wanted our AC working again, but knew the potential high costs of getting the factory system working again.

Which means our frugal minds said, we'd accept a clean looking retrofit that didn't cost a cashew.

And even to my surprise (and the AC shop I was dealing with), the results even exceed some new cars.:badger:
 

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I have been informed by our a/c guy that you can as good results from 134 if you increase your air flow through ypur condensor and I was considering the flex-a-lite dual 10" pusher in front of the condensor has anyone tried this yet with positve results? and would I need to add heavier wiring and alt?
There's truth to this. R134a does require more heat exchange than R12.
Though contrary to some web info, R134a is actually more efficient.

Some Mk2 owners have reached results with 45F at the vents. Which is average with any new car.
Some have reported 50F, which basically takes the heat edge off.

The MK2 condenser is rather small, and my research indicated it was borderline for R134a.
Those I consulted said if I wanted frosty nipples (well, not in that exact terminology), they said use a more efficient condenser.

So I did. And some have suggested I rename the kit. :D

Here's a link to a FAQ that may provide you some more information.
http://forums.celicasupra.com/showthread.php?t=32211

Greg is correct. The kit used Spal fans. 10" or 11". Don't recall.

Yes, most any aftermarket fan will need to be wired seperately from any factory feeds.
You can use the existing fan feed as the relay trigger.
 

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Great pics, you guys. How in earth did that A/C work with all that crap in the evaporator all those years? I would be afraid to look at mine at 442,000 miles.
Supra Derek
Oakland, California
 

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Great pics, you guys. How in earth did that A/C work with all that crap in the evaporator all those years? I would be afraid to look at mine at 442,000 miles.
Supra Derek
Oakland, California
Derek, wow its cool to see you on here. You are the Derek with the sleeper Ltype 83? :badger::)
 

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Hey Greg, awesome job. I googled "JDK air conditioning kits" and nothing came up. Do you have a web site for JDK air conditioning kits?

Thanks
 

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Hey raro I can answer that...

No such thing as a site for JDK AC kits. The kit was fabriacted from off the shelf parts by Jim King - his initials are JDK. This was a group buy for the forum here at one time (about 3 years ago). So you can't technically purchase a brand new kit unless a CS member here decides to sell one.
 

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Thanks for the answer, Phil. So, Greg must have been one of the group buyer's or purchased a kit from a CS member? Just curious how much for just the parts any idea?

Ralph
 

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Ok tech Q ???????? How many ponds of r134a did you use to charge your system? I charged mine with 2libs and its cool not cold but this could be do to lack of cooling on the condenser.

O and my low side gets wet not frosty.

Just checking

Thanks

2 pounds sounds about right. It's really determined by actual pressure readings.

Low side will get wet and maybe a bit frosty. If ice starts forming,
the low side pressure is too low.

Check your high / low side pressures.

If the AC gets colder as you drive, and they drops off when you are at idle,
yes, you need better cooling on the condenser.

If no front condenser fan, you need the electric fans to trigger when the AC is switched on.

If no rad electric fans, "bad Dave". Your going to have to squeeze a fan between that monster IC and the condenser. :badger:
 

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I just put a ford contour single up in front of the condenser in the crudest way--just for this summer-- put a generic thermostatic relay/fan controller on it, and it does wonders for the vent temps, not to mention the new fan clutch, too. It takes very little time and is a quick fix. But, to squeeze one in next to an intercooler will be interesting, Dave, and will probably not be a pullapart special like mine :) I suppose if you go turbo, you end up going electric over on the engine side and ditching the fan clutch, but a new fan clutch blows like hell, too. The combination of new fan clutch and pusher fan is awesome. Nice shot of the guys installing the more sizable cooling fan to the condenser in the thread. The stocker is a joke. Envirosafe is a good product for my old system.

Jim, how much difference would wrapping any of the exposed metal connections from the expansion(?) valve back make. It pretty much bakes next to the manifold and must result in some noticeable loss of cool. If so, any suggestions on wrap? Sorry for the threadjack.
 

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Jim, how much difference would wrapping any of the exposed metal connections from the expansion(?) valve back make. It pretty much bakes next to the manifold and must result in some noticeable loss of cool. If so, any suggestions on wrap? Sorry for the threadjack.
Hey Doug-

I did look into some techniques for preventing engine bay heat affecting the
the low and high pressure lines.

Most people I spoke with suggested insulating the high pressure line (small line). In general, they said it can help a bit, though not required. They did mention if it did make some difference, then the condenser is not exchanging heat like it should.
 

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yea my problem is cooling the condenser. With my big ass IC i have no room. I added a small slim spal fan but in doing so i had to practically smash the condenser up against the IC. This is not working. When it got cool outside the system pumped out icy cold air. So now what ima try is to pull the spal fan out and place the condenser flush up against the rad support. Then seal the area making all the air have to go threw the condenser to get to the rad. That with the help of the twin E fans im going with (If they ever show up) I should get what i need........ Not having a shroud to go with my 10 blade clutch fan isn't helping ether.
 

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Holly Fargen POO BATMAN!!!! I have cold ac................ With twin E fans on the rad and blocking off the area forcing the air to pass threw the condenser to get to the rad worked wonders. So i have no spal fan on the condenser itself. I have the E fans on the rad also wired up to the ac system so if the ac is on so are the fans. I need to get a thermometer to reed vent temps.
 
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