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Holly Fargen POO BATMAN!!!! I have cold ac................ With twin E fans on the rad and blocking off the area forcing the air to pass threw the condenser to get to the rad worked wonders. So i have no spal fan on the condenser itself. I have the E fans on the rad also wired up to the ac system so if the ac is on so are the fans. I need to get a thermometer to reed vent temps.
TITE, YO!

It would be good to know your vent temps vs ambient since you are in a drier climate.

That in combo with your E-fans and a "tiny" intercooler.
 

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Pusher fan?

I didn't see what you used. I mounted a 12" Derale in front of my condenser.Took a lot of time-the stock one is very small! A 10" would have been easier.I hope I never have to remove the evaporater-looks like a PITA.Wonder how much crap is in there...
 

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There's truth to this. R134a does require more heat exchange than R12.
Though contrary to some web info, R134a is actually more efficient.

Some Mk2 owners have reached results with 45F at the vents. Which is average with any new car.
Some have reported 50F, which basically takes the heat edge off.

The MK2 condenser is rather small, and my research indicated it was borderline for R134a.
Those I consulted said if I wanted frosty nipples (well, not in that exact terminology), they said use a more efficient condenser.

So I did. And some have suggested I rename the kit. :D

Here's a link to a FAQ that may provide you some more information.
http://forums.celicasupra.com/showthread.php?t=32211

Greg is correct. The kit used Spal fans. 10" or 11". Don't recall.

Yes, most any aftermarket fan will need to be wired seperately from any factory feeds.
You can use the existing fan feed as the relay trigger.
I used a a DeRail 12" but it's a tight fit.DOABLE! 10" is easier to install. It will take some custom fitting. WORTH it. The air flow is HUGE! I use it to cool the engine. 20 AMP fuse. The stock fan is a weenie. Take it all out and you will see what you have to do,there. I posted it WAY back. My system is on it's way out so I needed max air flow-best I can do for now.
 

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Here Joe is making easy work of rebuilding my EPR...

Okay, I know this is an extremely old thread, but I was able to snag one of the original JDK A/C Upgrade kits and am looking for the instructions on rebuilding the EPR Valve.
I have the instructions for the installation, but the instructions indicate that there is a second manual for rebuilding the EPR Valve.

The Evaporator Pressure Regulator in this application is only being used as a coupler. The Evaporator Temperature is controlled by a temperature sensor that cycles the compressor on and off.

I would like to find out how the EPR valve is disabled.

Any help from owners of the JK AC Kit would be greatly appreciated.

Dale
 

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Just a tip, but the epr is still available from Toyota. I replaced mine last year. Blew my mind that it was still available...
 
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