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Power mirror repair step by step

344 Views 13 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  Camsdad66
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Hello all, after a full day i got my 3 prong power mirrors working again! Here i will give the full walk through. All these are on the shelf in an auto-zone or already probably in your home.

parts needed:
6x 450930 gm trim retainers
Dawn
Toothbrush
Sandpaper

step 1: remove the mirrors- three screws are behind the triangular plate inside the door just behind the mirror. Theres a clip that’s probably brittle and runs the power to the motors.

step 2: be delicate here. With 2 PLASTIC pry bars pop the mirror out of the ball socket it is in. if any of your adjustments are still working, run it all the way out as far as possible before yanking on the glass.

step 3:you will see the two motor boxes; one labeled v (vertical) and one labeled h (horizontal). Try to keep them separate throughout the repair but the parts are universal (except the covers). Take the two screws out of each and bag and tag. Next take out the one screw holding the ball socket in. Lastly remove the three screws holding the spring plate down. And then bend it up to let the plate come loose. The other end of the spring can easily be removed now.
there is a good chance the screw posts will be dust by now so remove bolts with caution
mine looked like a firecracker went off in each of them. I have a fix for that later

(optional step): take the housing and wash in water and dawn. The toothbrush gets dirt without demolishing the pillars. The motor boxes have three tabs on each and are brittle but secure enough to be removed. Take the cover off and clean the internals with water and dawn. Replace and add grease to prolong the life of the gears. Here is a before and after:
Automotive tire Wood Hardwood Electrical wiring Wood stain



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Were going to call this one big step 5:

Cut the two square holes out with and exacto knife DO NOT CUT TOO DEEP AND HIT THE GLASS not spoken from personal experience cough cough
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Take your new square and put it over the fastener. Then cut it to shape. YES THERE IS FINALLY A USE FOR THESE BUTTONS THAT MAKE MECHANICS PULL OUT THEIR HAIR
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now cut of two sides of fins it should look like this…
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cut the new plastic “stud” to about 26 mm it can be a bit off but no more than an 1/8 inch for cautions sake
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Now this part kinda sucks. Its trial and error. Take your stud and sand down the square edges on the ends and make it a bit more “round.” Dont take off too much though. You want it to be able to be pushed or pulled in and out with force yet still be able to be moved by the worm gear adjustment. this is so the mirror can be moved manually or electronically
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Step 6:

take the final two fasteners and cut out about a 8-9 mm hole in the middle just so the stud can move around without passing through.

the size of the “cap” isn’t too important as long as it covers over the entire opening. Mine are roughly 20mm by 18mm
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Now the original cut out squares can be placed down in the hole to act as a spacer and reduce movement of the stud.
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This keeps it just under flush and lets it wiggle without being too loose.
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Now grab the caps and set them down where you want them. Drop some small drips or super glue down around the edges DO NOT SOAK IT AND GET GLUE ON THE STUDS you want the stud to be free moving.only glue the cap down from the outside edges.
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Now that your mirror is ready, lets finish the housing.
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Side step: i printed these sleeves out of pla (all i have at the moment) so i could get the posts to stay in place while screwing the motors and spring in. The studs are 7.75-8 mm diameter and i made the sleeve 11mm outer diameter with a height of 12mm. There are cut outs for all the fins where necessary. The sleeves are superglued to the studs for rigidity. This may be helpful to some but not others.
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STEP 7:
Now that you can put screws into the brittle plastic, reverse the process of taking the internals out. Spring/plate, ball socket, motors.
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As for installing the glass, line up the studs with the respective adjuster it goes to and gently wiggle them into place once the glass is far down enough you can push the center of the glass to pop the socket back in. My phone wouldn’t focus to let me get a picture of the stud in the gear assembled.refer to step 5


Adjust the mirrors and test them out. All should be well now. If not then a cap may have came unglued or make sure its plugged in and avoid the “oops” moment.

enjoy your power mirrors for around $15
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Wow that is killer work. If you offered those sleeves for sale I bet a few would take em if the price were right.
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This is AWESOME... was going to figure out something similar... but U saved me the time & effort.. BIG TIME

So I'm sending U a case of "Virtual " Beer... umm ... if I can figure out how to do that... LOL

Cheers,
This is AWESOME... was going to figure out something similar... but U saved me the time & effort.. BIG TIME

So I'm sending U a case of "Virtual " Beer... umm ... if I can figure out how to do that... LOL

Cheers,
I appreciate the thought. Im just glad i could help someone
Wow that is killer work. If you offered those sleeves for sale I bet a few would take em if the price were right.
I have no idea how to pm on here but if you do message me and i can send a few over ill even cut out the slots for you.
Wow that is killer work. If you offered those sleeves for sale I bet a few would take em if the price were right.
yes they would
Nice. I am glad to see a repair for the 85 mirrors. I did a very similar post for my 83 mirrors. It's on here somewhere.
This repair thread is so well done that it deserve to be made a 'sticky'!

👏
Reading the whole thread even if I have manual mirrors.. 😂
Great write-up!
Brilliant work! I started to try and restore a mirror once but it was so crispy that it shattered in my hand as if I'd bit into a graham cracker.
Brilliant work! I started to try and restore a mirror once but it was so crispy that it shattered in my hand as if I'd bit into a graham cracker.


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