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Whistles
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Discussion Starter #23
Well, I took the plunge. My minty fresh, fully built-by-Driftmotion R154 trans (w/ALL Marlin Crawler goodies) will soon be up for sale once I get it back from them. I just picked up the "universal" T56 Magnum conversion kit from Grannas Racing w/ClutchMasters FX850 dual plate clutch. Joel is running a Black Friday deal so I saved an additional $450 off on the kit. Bonus.

I'm super pumped. And as usual, this forum finds a way to spend more money than I planned. So thank you all for your ideas, insight and recommendations. I'll be sure to update pics and the entire install process in this thread so stay tuned...

-Dan
 

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Whistles
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Awesome. I really like the CM 850 clutch, too. Been using it with a street/race disc setup, and it drives very nice on the street.
 

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...
puts the car over 100 at 2500 RPM with 3.73 rear end and the tire size I’m running. Not a practical cruising speed unfortunately. Lol.
In Germany, almost! But we're not there.
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
UPDATE! Santa Claus stopped by in the big brown truck today and dropped this off:


I’m pumped.



Picked up an MKIV replica shift knob with T56 shift pattern. Sweet:



Awaiting the clutch to arrive tomorrow then traveling for work the next couple of weeks. Hoping to dig into this project in mid-December and through the holidays...

-Dan

EDIT: clutch arrived!
 

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Cool! Post the total cost once you get this thing hooked up to your JZ and running (that is what you have isn't it?). I can't think of many on this board that have actually completed this conversion with a Toyota i6 under the hood still.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Progress today! Got the W58 out along with installation of new rear main seal and new T/O bearing that came with Grannas kit. Got the Magnum all prepped and ready for a test fit but was at a good stopping point this evening to spend time with the fam on Christmas Eve. Will dig back in on Wednesday.

Happy Holidays everyone!!




Flipped the shifter around and resealed the housing:

 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
GREAT NEWS—IT FITS! But there’s definitely very little room to spare...

So here’s the deal...first I test fitted the bell housing and had to do a couple minor modifications.



1. I had to move the 4 hard lines at the front of the tunnel:

Also, you can see where I had to massage the tunnel a little bit to clear the side of the bell (just below the hard lines).

Here’s where I moved the top two hard lines (fuel supply and rear brake line feed) to the top of the tunnel, and the bottom two lines (fuel return and fuel tank vapor) to the bottom of the tunnel:


2. With a test of the Bell housing again I decided to cut off two tabs at the top of the bell to give more clearance. You can see the cut marks in this pic:



Cutoff wheel made quick work and brushed on some black chassis paint to prevent rusting on the cut marks...more clearance...nice:


So with the bell fitting nice, it was time to test fit the trans. Pucker time!

3. First minor issue I ran across sliding the trans into place was at the shifter opening. I knew the shifter would fit perfectly in the unmodified hole once in its final resting position. However, notice the shifter handle stud on the trans protrudes about 3 inches—as compared to W58 where the shifter comes out completely giving more top side clearance when angling the trans into position. Net/net, I couldn’t get enough trans angle to clear the output spline into the bell hosing while also clearing the shifter stud into the shifter opening. I trimmed about 1/2” off the rear side of the shifter opening and problem solved.

The shifter location in the opening is about 1/2” more forward than the W58. PERFECT.




4. With the tail of the trans lifted as high as I could get it without any interference, I still need to raise it another half inch or so. Here you can see where the rear of the trans hangs down; I’d like to try and get to even with the frame rails at minimum:



Looking down from the front of the car, oil pan in the foreground, you can see at the far end where the rear of the trans hangs a little lower than the bottom of the bell. Another 1/2-3/4” higher and will be good:


There’s enough clearance at the top rear of the tunnel to raise another 1/2-3/4”:


...but I will need to massage a couple more spots on the trans tunnel to clear and move the two hard lines i moved to the top of the tunnel back down towards the bottom to clear the bell.

I’ll post the next update once all these final tweaks are made and the trans is in for the final time. Yahoo!! The T56 Magnum fits in the MK2!!

-Dan
 

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Super clean install so far, thanks for the great pics and info. That transmission will be around for years to come, nice to see it is possible to make it work without too much fuss.
 

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Cool. Before you bolt it in for the last time you should take the tail housing off and have it machined for the speedo gear. It goes on the opposite side of where the electronic sensor goes (so the cable goes down the driver's side). There are many different gear combo's you can buy to match the Toyota gear ratio you want. If you google it you can find the place that does the machining.

You didn't have any issues with the reverse switch? That was the thing I worried about the most. There's a Ford low profile sensor I believe off the GT500 that the twin guys use for the swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
Cool. Before you bolt it in for the last time you should take the tail housing off and have it machined for the speedo gear. It goes on the opposite side of where the electronic sensor goes (so the cable goes down the driver's side). There are many different gear combo's you can buy to match the Toyota gear ratio you want. If you google it you can find the place that does the machining.

You didn't have any issues with the reverse switch? That was the thing I worried about the most. There's a Ford low profile sensor I believe off the GT500 that the twin guys use for the swap.
For the reverse lockout there are a couple options:

1. You can modify the lockout switch: remove the spring, cut one ring off the spring and reassemble. This effectively makes it possible to engage reverse with a little effort and no lockout switch required.

2. Similar to what you mentioned, buy an aftermarket lockout switch that hooks up to the speed sensor on the trans. It opens the lockout switch under 5 mph so you can engage reverse easily. This is the route I’m going. I picked up one of these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/AWR-ELUN-10013

For the speedo situation, I’m going a one of two different routes:

—For nearly the same the cost of having the tail housing machined, back and forth shipping, etc. you can buy a VSS-to-mechanical speedo adapter: https://www.speedhut.com/Speedbox.html. I even sourced a guy who will make a custom shortened speed cable so this box can be mounted in the passenger side engine bay with straight shot to gauge cluster.

Or

—Thinking of modifying/gutting a spare OEM gauge cluster and retrofitting in modern gauges. This route is like $300 more and requires a fair bit of wire harness work but i think it would be a cool mod. I would go with a 4” center tach flanked by two 3-3/8” speedo and combo gauges. Already did some testing to see what it would look like:



The layout is homage to the MKIV layout given the car will now be a 6-speed 2J. ;-). I’m thinking of using the OEM gauge cluster ‘plate’ as a template for cutting a piece of 1/8” dry carbon sheet, cutting the holes for directionals/high beam/gauge holes and reinstalling in the OEM gauge cluster body and retain the clear lens cover. I’d make the harness plug and play with OEM harness plugging into the back of the cluster pod like factory.

Anyway...a few thoughts on where my head is at.

-D
 

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I was talking about the reverse switch for the backup lights on the right side of the transmission. Its wider there than the W58 or R154. The reverse lockout you can use the standalone to trigger what is already there.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I was talking about the reverse switch for the backup lights on the right side of the transmission. Its wider there than the W58 or R154. The reverse lockout you can use the standalone to trigger what is already there.
Ah gotcha! Nope, no clearance issue at all with the reverse switch. You can see the switch with black pigtail hanging down in this pic:


There are a couple unused mounting tabs on the trans the could be cut off to give even more clearance but I massaged the tunnel in those areas instead. (Don’t want to risk warranty claim if I have issue with the trans the first couple years.)
 

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That's a nice shot.

For the crossmember you might want to start with one of these;

https://www.hedman.com/product-detail/6524

trim their trans mount bracket off and rotate it 90 deg then trim the ends for you own bracket on the body side. They make a 3" drop version one as well.
 

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Have you thought about running an all in one dash like a racpak or something? Tons of options out there for that. I haven't seen a well done triple round gauge setup in years, but tons of people convert to all in on dashes, and s2000 clusters as well these days.
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
Yeah, I am considering an all-in-one race cluster too. Definitely cool.

For about half the price, I was playing around with designing my own gauges on http://speedhut.com and came up with this. You can add custom logos to the gauges:


Looks pretty cool...

Here’s an all-in-one unit that caught my eye. Probably overkill for my needs but having the ability to build custom graphics and dash layouts is awesome.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Worked on the trans crossmember today. I ended up using the do-it-yourself kit that came with my Grannas package. It comes with the body brackets, bushing mounting bracket and a 18” piece of 1” chromoly. I added a couple pieces of flat stock to put it all together.

Clamped into place ready for tac welds:



After a few tac welds, she’s ready for finish welding. A good excuse to fire up my TIG and get some practice. :)



More to follow...
 
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