Ok, here's the complete parts list and cost. Some parts are optional as noted below as there are cheaper workarounds but I spared no expense...Lol.
$4590 -- I bought the universal kit at the time but now Grannas Racing offers an MK2 kit. This price included shipping and also a $450 Black Friday discount sale that I took advantage of at the time. Includes close ratio (TUET11009) T56 Magnum transmission, Quicktime bellhousing, all mounting hardware, trans crossmember (Grannas makes them specfic for MK2), correct pilot bearing for T56, prothane poly trans mount, wiring pigtail plug kit, 3" aluminum driveshaft. Full details here.
$2499 -- Clutch Masters twin plate (FX850); includes hydraulic T/O bearing, flywheel and proper clutch disc splines for T56
$89 -- MKIV replica shift knob with T56 shift gate pattern. Need thread converter adapter ($10): 3/8-16 to 16x1.5 to mount knob to shift handle
$399 -- OPTIONAL -- I decided to buy the Bolwer Performance NightStick for it's 2" customizable shifter relocation capability plus it's a short shifter to boot. The stock Tremec shifter base that comes with the transmission is fine but you would need to relocatoin the shifter rearward by about 1" minimum; could make a simple steel plate with 4 holes to accomplish that the cheaper way.
$135 -- OPTIONAL -- 6" 30-degree kickback billet shifter handle from Bolwer Performance. This is just personal preference; the Sikky straight shifter handle that comes with the Grannas kit would work fine--but it's 8" so 2" taller.
$140 -- OPTIONAL -- American Powertrain reverse lockout module. Grannas shows you how to cut one ring from the spring in the T56 lockout module to eliminate the need for this. But rather than do any cutting, I decided to go the more elegant (but costlier) route.
$9 -- Earl's clutch line fitting adapter (part# 989538ERL). This allows OEM clutch line to mate with stainless clutch line from the Clutch Masters hydraulic T/O bearing. 10mm x 1.0 inverted flare to -3 AN male.
$350-$400 -- Hooking up the OEM speedo. There are a couple routes you could take here. 1. Have the tail housing of the T56 modified so it can accept a mechanical speedo gear/sensor. There are provisions for it; it's just plugged and has to be machined out. 2. Speedhut.com makes a digital-to-mechanical speedo coverter box. Both of these options are priced about the same. For me, I decided to upgrade my entire gauge cluster for $600.
GRAND TOTAL for my project was: $8,471. You could do this swap for probably as low as ~$6k w/a cheaper single disc clutch and forego all the options I added above.
Recall at the beginning of this thread that I was going to go down the R154 route; I priced it all out for everything I needed and a rebuilt 154 swap was going to be $4808. (This does NOT include the price of the trans since I already had that. It included the rebuild fee, twin plate OS Giken clutch, bell housing, hydraulic T/O bearing, new driveshaft, etc.)
I'd do it all over again at this price...I'm thrilled with the result and how the car drives!
You guys were right--it was the coils! 3 of them were cracked. While replacing all 6 coils, I changed to a new set of plugs too (NGK (6282) BCPR7ES) gapped at .032". The plugs i took out were gapped at .040" so that probably didn't help...But she runs like a champ now!!
My God! You guys are brilliant! Thank you Supraholic for going through this detailed documentation of your tranny swap. A couple of years ago I thought it'd be great to do a JZ swap but was concerned about the transmission issue. This build certainly put that to rest. I am itching to see another video of you driving your MKII (positively gorgeous by the way). I am curious about that rear subframe idea. Are there any more takers?
I don't spend a lot of time here but wanted to share a nice MKII rebuild I performed.
Typically I spend most of my time rebuilding MKIII differentials and shipping them all over the country as well as overseas.
I mostly spend my time on SupraMania under the same username.
This is the...
So I noticed a slow drip from where the transmission connects to the driveshaft.
I'm assuming it's the output shaft seal?
Any tips on removing and replacing this thing?
Any recommendations on replacing the fluid?
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