Toyota Celica Supra Forum banner

21 - 40 of 88 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,248 Posts
damn, you rock dude... i know ive said it before, but im just letting you know. i attempted my power steering cap, failed big time. i got it smooth, but not as shiny as i wanted it :( so i just painted it and "polished" the T area of it. looks pretty good, but not as good as yours.

i wanna see what polished brake calipers would look like on our cars :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,603 Posts
So, out of curiosity (and my lazyness), could you have sandblasted it instead of sand it down with the the paper and still get the same results?

Or is sanding with paper the only choice?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,309 Posts
stevrock said:
So, out of curiosity (and my lazyness), could you have sandblasted it instead of sand it down with the the paper and still get the same results?

Or is sanding with paper the only choice?

On the wheel faces, no. If you blast the faces of the wheels they'll be all pitted and you'll have more sanding to do. You then have to sand the machining lines out then the pitting in the valleys. If you bead blast the wheels mask the faces off it will save you a lot of work. Boy do I ever remember polishing my old stockers like that. I think I spent about 40 hrs worth of sanding on mine and ended up with blisters all over. Thank god for aftermarket wheels :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,963 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
SilverMk2 said:
On the wheel faces, no. If you blast the faces of the wheels they'll be all pitted and you'll have more sanding to do. You then have to sand the machining lines out then the pitting in the valleys. If you bead blast the wheels mask the faces off it will save you a lot of work. Boy do I ever remember polishing my old stockers like that. I think I spent about 40 hrs worth of sanding on mine and ended up with blisters all over. Thank god for aftermarket wheels :D

When you think you are finished sanding....sand more!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,519 Posts
rim shops often use walnut shells to blast wheels. Definantly don't use sand, glass beads or walnut shells.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,106 Posts
When you do lazy work, so are the results.
You get what you worked for !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,603 Posts
So to polish them you just keep sanding (with 400grit) until they are shiny again? (just the rims, I wouldn't blast the powersteering)

I don't actually mean lazy, I mean more of a quick and effective way. But then again, if it were a quick and effective way, it would just be "the way".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,963 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
I think you need to go back and read the directions in the first post...I outlined the steps I took in detail.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,603 Posts
Tire Shredder said:
I think you need to go back and read the directions in the first post...I outlined the steps I took in detail.
Sorry, I thought that was written up about the other mods that you have done, I skipped that part and wanted to see the tire restoration.

I think that is something I'll give a shot at over the winter.

Thanks for the info, I think you'll see alot more polished rims and such next summer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,248 Posts
so i started on my first wheel, went through the steps (used 100 grit, then 180, 320, 400 and 600). i cant find 800 or 1000 around here, but i can get #0000 steel wool, its almost like ruing a sponge on the damn things, but i can see slight results, however, right now the amount of work im putting into them is outweighing hte reward of pimpalicious wheels. theyre looking good, but ill tell you what, my fingers are all sorts of messed up. at this rate ill be doing maybe 1 wheel a week. im not even totally done with the first one becuase no matter how much i sand and buff i dont get the lvl of bling that i want. of course, i should proably realise that im working with polished aluminum and not chrome.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,963 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
just stay with it. Like Jocelyn said, it all depends on how much time and effort you put into it. I only did a couple hours a night and spready it out over teh whole winter... in the spring I did a couple marathon weekends to get it on the road. sanding is the most important step, the buffing takes very little time and it will really magnify your mistakes on the previous steps.

Re Throttle Plate: yup, i'm working on it. Just got the tremclad primer on the brake booster two days ago (takes three days to dry) after sanding it. Will be painted tomorrow night with semi gloss black krylon, after that is dry the engine will be cleaned and new vacuum lines installed then I can shine up a couple more parts like the throttle plate.

I don't wnat ot get too crazy as this is an all stock origonal 5m and I am not pulling the motor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,248 Posts
well fuckit, if youre not gonna pull the motor, might as well make it beautiful, shine away right? if it blows, and you have to buy a new motor, you dont have to do the work over again, unless youre going to go 7m or above.

did you wear gloves or anything while sanding? my fingers are messed up, i took away most of my finger tips this weekend. i tried wrapping them in that sports tape, but reguardless of the package saying water/sweat proof, they kept peeling off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,963 Posts
Discussion Starter #36
yes, I used those yellow kitchen gloves when I sanded. I found the bathroom variety worked better. The actual hand part is blue and thicker than the standard kictchen gloves. It seemed to give a a bit more protection. It's still killer on the hands but it helps a little bit...and you won't spend hours cleaning the aluminum from around your fingernails anymore either. I did go through a few pairs of these...at least they are cheap. Just don't do too much at once or you'll cripple yourself for a long time, do it in sections. I have heard of other's using split leather gloves with good sucess.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,603 Posts
Just don't use any powdered gloves since you plan on doing alot of work with your hands in them. My hands started cracking when I detailed cars using them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,890 Posts
Very nice Steve...lots of work and dedication pays off and saves you Money if you do it yourself...See you soon pal
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
780 Posts
what did you use to paint the vavle covers, mine are in great shape i just want to paint them, clean up the engine a lil bit. any suggestions?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,963 Posts
Discussion Starter #40
I first used castrol super clean to clean all the oil and grease off of the valve covers and then stripped the paint using a chemical stripper. Steel wool worked nicely to remove oxidization and any stuck on paint. I used a block to sound down the raised, polished parts and followed the same steps I did on my wheels for sanding/polishing. I then did a bout 5 light coats of Duplicolor gloss black engine enamel. Between each coat, I used a clean rag with varsol on it to rub off the paint from the polished portions. After a few days of drying, I clearcoated the entire cover using the same stuff on my wheels so I won't have to polish it again (POR-15 says it can withstand the heat). of course, mask off the bottom of the cover, the oil cap hole and the bungs for the PCV hoses. Pennies work great to plug the screw holes.

I basically folowed the same directions outlined in Dean Anderson's website. Do a seach for the member name "Dean" the link to his website is listed in his signature. Tons of great info there.
 
21 - 40 of 88 Posts
Top