Project Cheapskate Driveshaft has commenced.
I really don't want to pay $300 for a new driveshaft, so I took inspiration from Norbie, who used a shortened Hilux driveshaft for his 2JZ conversion. I hunted high and low for just such a driveshaft, but everyone wanted too much for it. Through more research, I found that the magical combo was:
1) A W-series, A43-series, G-series, or other 2WD truck transmission. They all have a 1.5" inch OD tranny yoke with a 21-spline interior. The 4WD has a flange on the output of the transfer case and wasn't considered.
2) A 2-piece serviceable driveshaft.
That excludes the 81and MK2 Celica Supra, early MK3 supra, the 82-85 Celica, 85-up Cressida, trucks with a 1-piece driveshaft, and some mid-80's Corollas.
BUT, it leaves the Carina, pre-82 Celica, MK1 Celica Supra, later N/A MK3 Supras, most N/A MK4 Supras, nearly all 2WD trucks (except those with a 1-piece), 67 thru mid 80's Corolla, all Corona, pre-85 Cressida, Crown, and the Starlet. At least.
3) A driveshaft at least 53.25" long. Longer is better, since it is easier to shorten than to lengthen. I am talking about a manual car. The automatic will have a shorter front half and the same back half.
4) Carrier bearings are not a big problem, since nearly all of them have a 1.181" ID. What changes is the bracket they are mounted on. When in doubt, you can drill out the spot welds on the bracket, replace the rubber/bearing, and reweld it. A new bearing assembly without the bracket should run around $50 US.
5) Nearly all of the replaceable U-joints are either Rockford Driveline p/n: K1502 or K1510, with some K1511's in the Landcruiser line. The K1502 is in most of the cars and lacks a lube fitting, while the K1510 is in the trucks (and the Starlet for some reason) and has a lube fitting. The K1502 and the K1510 are larger than the 430-10 nonserviceable U-joint in the MK2. 430-10 = 0.867" bearing cap diameter; K1502 = 1.024" bearing cap diam; K1510 = 1.134" bearing cap diam. Bigger is better.
6) A truck driveshaft would be nice, since the back halves tend to be 1-piece tubing, without the rubber damper integrated into it.
So, I looked and looked, and on Ebay I found a 1977 Corona sedan driveshaft for $30. Bought it and got it home today. Measured it, and the front half, from end of the tranny yoke to the centerline of the carrier bearing is identical. Flanges are identical. The carrier bearing bracket is wrong, but I have one from my Auto parts car's driveshaft. The back half is .25" too long, but the differential yoke is identical in bolt spacing. I will have 3 new U-joints installed (around $17 apiece), have the back half shortened, and have the whole deal balanced. The driveline shop I found said they could do it for $100 to $120. Total will come in under or around $200, which is a vast improvement over $300+.
Websites I used to compile this info:
www.neapco.com
www.rockforddriveline.com
www.powertrainindustries.com
www.partsamerica.com
www.norbie.net
Pictures to follow.
Hope this lengthy discourse helps someone else.
Brian
