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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Greetings xJZ enthusiasts!

Let's start the new year right with another 2J swap! This post marks the launch of my newest project named "Silver Bullet". I bought this car from a fellow cs.com member in the spring of 2009 and have been thinking of upgrading from the stock 7MGTE to a single turbo 2JZGTE motor ever since. In fact, when I was originally in the market for a MKII, I wanted a clean one that had the stock 5M so I could embark on this transplant from scratch. I ended up with a very nicely done MKII with 7MGTE already in it. I thought about modding the 7M but love the baseline performance the 2J provides. Also, I love challenges and can't leave things alone. :thumbsup: Having previously owned a MKIV TT, I have never forgotten the feeling of torque that comes from that motor...

I plan to convert a JDM 2JZ-GTE to USDM. In fact, I already have a stock '97 MKIV ECU (USDM), MAF, OEM 550cc injectors, and the low impedance resistor pack. I need to find a set of USDM camshafts and I'll be well on my way to having all the parts to do the conversion. I plan to re-pin the JDM wire harness to mate up with the USDM ECU and strip out all unnecessary circuits/auto tranny wiring. Last week, I received the new heart of Silver Bullet, a JDM 2JZ from an Aristo. All cylinders with compression between 175-185.

Here are a couple pics just after unloading from the truck:





It didn't take me long to start tearing the motor down to change out the pumps and remove the stock twins:



Pulled the valve covers and the valves look good; no rust and well oiled:



The stock JDM twins look brand new and in very good shape. Too bad they gotta go!



To no surprise, the coil-pack connectors shattered in my hands when I unplugged them; I'll be ordering new connectors from Toyota. I pulled the auto tranny off and then worked on getting the stubborn crank pulley off. I read how hard it is to loosen the crank pulley bolt so I was prepared. I used a piece of scrap angle iron, drilled a couple holes to bolt the to auto flywheel to "lock" the motor from turning:

In the pic above, when loosening the crank bolt, the flywheel wanted to turn towards the camera. Propping the angle iron on a piece of 2x4 (near), wedging the other end in the engine hoist leg (far), and having my wife stand on the far engine hoist leg while I cranked on a 5-foot breaker bar did the trick pretty easily!

5-foot, 1" steel pipe to on my breaker bar...Leverage is everything for a 175lb. guy:


Got the crank pulley off and removed, timing belt (which looked good), and removed the waterpump...More good news: clean red coolant came out of the motor so at least I know factory coolant was used!


Pulled the auto flywheel off the back:


With all good indications of motor condition so far, I haven't decided if I'm going to pull the head or not? What do you guys think? I was thinking about at least installing new valve stem seals when I swap the cams to USDM. I'll probably put the motor on my engine stand and drop the pan to inspect the crank & rod bearings; should I change them? (Over $300 in bottom-end bearings could be well spent elsewhere).

I'm in no rush to get the transplant done and will be plugging away at the motor and wiring outside of the car. Once spring hits, I'll be repainting the car first and maybe drive it a while before pulling the 7M:


Well, that's about it for now...I'll soon be ordering a bunch of stuff from Toyota to get the motor rebuild underway...

Happy New Year!

-Dan
 

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Sweet! Glad to see more 2JZ MKII's. What turbo are you going with? FYI do not get a spec clutch for your swap, trust me lol. Lookin forward to seeing it finished!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the clutch tip! I think I'm going to go with a feramic clutch that Raptor sells.

For turbo setup, I'm thinking of going with the PHR "street" kit (GT60 w/cast manifold)...I could probably save some money if I wanted to fabricate my own setup like Daves2JZGTE but I don't think my welding skills are up to the task! Although, I would love to know where he got the raw materials (3" tubing w/bends, etc.--I'll have to shoot him a PM). I want to run stock ECU and stock fuel system so I'm shooting for no more than ~450HP on 93 octane...There's a lot of inspiration on this forum so hopefully I can come close to your results!
 

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Looks like a nice start!

Check on Ebay for stainless tubing/bends, I was able to get everything I needed from there. There are lots of other place like burns stainless that you can order tubing from. As long as you stay away from 409 SS you shouldn't have any problems (unless you don't have access to a TIG or MIG with tri mix then your stuck with regular steel).
 

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Nice, where did you find the motor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
@racefanfoster--I got the motor from Nagano Japanese out of Virginia. So far, my experience with them has been good. I talked to them on the phone before they shipped and they gave me accurate and complete details about the motor--very open an honest. They forgot to ship the igniter pack with the motor but I sent them an email and they called me right away to apologize and one is now in the mail.

@Dave--Yeah, I thought about buying a USDM harness but at ~$1,000, I'm going to try to work with the JDM harness. I already purchased the OBD-II data link connector and will add it to the harness. I just pulled the harness off the motor and have a bunch of plugs to replace: all 6 injector plugs, all 6 coilpack plugs, and both cam position sensor plugs. (When you squeeze the release clip to pull them, the release clip snaps.) The heat does bad things to some of the plugs that sit close to the motor. Other than the plugs, the harness is in good shape an the wiring appears intact/flexible. Oh, and thanks for the tip on the exhaust camshaft! If I can't find a used USDM intake cam, I might just get a new HKS 264--I 'think' it is mild enough to not affect idle? The price of a new OEM intake cam versus a new HKS 264 is about the same but you get more performance from the HKS...
 

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My 2JZ idles fine even with 272's so I wouldn't be concerned about that. You don't have to worry too much about idle quality until you start getting into angry NA cams, which are way bigger than anything you'd use on a turbo.

BTW here's a tip for you while the engine is on the floor, take the plenum off and drill a hole at the back to accept a banjo fitting for the brake booster. You'll note Aristo engines don't have one of these because they had electric brake assistance. This job is far more difficult once the engine is in the car!
 

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My 2JZ idles fine even with 272's so I wouldn't be concerned about that. You don't have to worry too much about idle quality until you start getting into angry NA cams, which are way bigger than anything you'd use on a turbo.

BTW here's a tip for you while the engine is on the floor, take the plenum off and drill a hole at the back to accept a banjo fitting for the brake booster. You'll note Aristo engines don't have one of these because they had electric brake assistance. This job is far more difficult once the engine is in the car!
+1 I did that when my engine was on a stand. I used a 3/8'' NPT barb style fitting and it works perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks guys--great tip on the brake booster fitting!!! I would have definitely missed it until I went to attach the brake booster hose...GREAT CATCH--thanks!

I'm having trouble finding a used USDM intake cam; a new one will cost over $400 from Toyota. If I need to buy a new one, I might as well get an upgraded cam. Will I have any valve overlap problems if I put in say, a Crower 264 (w/9.5mm lift) intake cam and keep the stock exhaust cam? Shopping around, it looks like I can get a Crower cam for ~$300...
 

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If you shop supraforums, you can pick up both 264 cams for $300. That's what I would do.
 

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You should do that anyway. If you look into the difference between the JDM and USDM intake cam there's not much in it; certainly not enough to justify the effort and expense IMO. 264's by contrast will actually make a worthwhile difference.
 

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If you shop supraforums, you can pick up both 264 cams for $300. That's what I would do.

Ima call a big fat BULLSHIT on that one!!! To prove my point you fined me a set of 2jzgte hks 264s for $300 or less and i will give you $50 once i have received the cams in working condition!!


As for the usdm to jdm you really dont need to swap it out but if you have to spend money go 264!!!
 

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Ima call a big fat BULLSHIT on that one!!! To prove my point you fined me a set of 2jzgte hks 264s for $300 or less and i will give you $50 once i have received the cams in working condition!!


As for the usdm to jdm you really dont need to swap it out but if you have to spend money go 264!!!
Didn't mean only hks cam's only Dave. Brian cower cams, as well as a few others I have seen if you wait long enough in the for sale forum. Which I don't think are any worse quality or power than the hks 264's. Just my opinion, and you know much more than I do on this whole topic, but I lurk supraforums f/s forum a lot and have seen them. Of course after I bought my brand new bc 264's on Black Friday.
 

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So Jays car is getting a 2J!! Cool. The usdm and jdm exhaust cam is the same its just the intake came that is different. You may wont to think about getting a usdm harness rather then re pinning the jdm but thats up to you.

Good luck with the swap

when you get the usdm harness... can you still use the Aristo ECU? what about smog? is aristo Ecu same with supra ecu turbo?
when you converted the jdm 2j to usdm 2j... beside drilling the head and intake for egr... what else you have to do? what about catalyst? egr vsv? did the refuree gave you a hard time when inspecting it?
what did they do to give you the legal sticker?

i read your swap thread but didn't quite got all the info from jdm to usdm conversion.
thanks
 

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I covered most all that it in post #34

LOL let Google search for you cracks me up!!!!

OK this is my list of differences in JDM and USDM as not all have bean mentioned.

Yes the big 3 are different turbos, small intake cam, and smaller injectors.
Now for the rest. As most of us know JDM have no EGR witch means the head is not drilled for it. Along the that the intake manifold is not drilled for it eather. As a result you have a different throttle body and the vacuum lines running across the back of the head are different. Depending on witch car the 2J came out of the water pump is different. Wiring harness ecu map VS MAF is all different along with O2s are different. Low oil lever sender clip is different. A note on the turbos you CAN NOT mix and mach parts you have to go all jdm or all usdm this includes vacuum and VSVs

so in short
turbos/all associated parts
intake cam
injectors
TB
intake Manifold
EGR/emissions vac and VSVs
ECU/HARNESS/o2s
water pump
BOV
some random clips (not needed for the MK2 swap)


I think that covers it
 

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I wouldn't worry about changing over to USDM cams, I think you only gain about 7hp......now I've read great things about the 264"s.
 

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Stainless raw materials...

Just thought id throw a line and tell you where to get the best prices on the 3" stainless material youre looking for.

I would say one of 2 places will supply all you're needs.

First would be Ace stainless ------>http://www.acestainless.com/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=12

Those are the bends they say mandrel but im under the assumption there a polished cast unit, either way a good price at $17.95 per 90.

After that you can by straight pipe by the foot for $8.25 for 3" stainless and figure out how many bends youre going to need.

The other option would be Columbia River Mandrel Bending ---->http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/

Either one will fill youre needs Ace is just a bit cheaper.

HTH, thats one sweet project you have there!

Good luck:thumbsup:
 
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