Please ask questions in the thread. All answers will be answered in the thread and added to the write-ups. Corrections will be done as soon as the error is made apparent. This is my experience and I assume no responsibility for the work you do on your car.
82-83 Info
Thanks to Donn29 for pics of the plugs. For people wanting to change out the plug on the 82-83 you will need to use this post and the charge light mod post by Daves2JZGTE Diagram for Repinning Charge light mod Round Plug fom Drift Motion, just haven't found anywhere else that sells them.
This write up is for an 84+ set up. For me the alternator is going into 86 6MGE. The two alternators were chosen because of their ease of install. There are no modifications needed besides the optional pulley modification and required connector end modification on the 100A alt. For reference the stock alternator cost ~$100 from Nix99 (2/4/2006). The important thing about trying to fit any non-stock alternator is the mounting holes need to be at 12 and 6 o clock positions and have the same spacing as the stock alternator. With out these requirements you will need to do some fabricating to get the alternator to fit.
This is for the 80A alt upgrade
From: The alt is from a 1992 Camry v6 3VZFE (Round Plug). 93+ alts will not work because of plug design (though you can modify the wiring harness)
Cost: Nix 99 is about $45 last checked on 2/4/06
Dealer $272 Discount dealer price $196 (Mark at Vancouver Toyota with Discount)
Tools:
10mm, 12mm, 14mm wrench/socket
New alternator belt stock length 6-rib IF keeping the Camry pulley. IF changing out the pulley then the stock belt will work.
17mm Drill bit IF modifying 5M pulley A 43/64th Drill bit will work but is slightly larger. I couldn't find a 17mm at the time.
Install:
If you are going to use the 6-rib pulley and a 6-rib belt there are no modifications that need to be performed. I feel that a 6-rib pulley is adequate and should not cause problems. *update* I am using a 4 rib belt and it is working fine. I switched to a 7M crank pulley for my 6M and they only have a 4 rib pulley for the alternator.* To use the 5m pulley, you will have to drill out the 5m pulley to 17mm or 43/64 inches. The belt you use (6 or 7 rib) should be stock length. The connections on the back of the alternator are identical to the stock alternator and are thankfully rotated away from the engine block 90 degrees. This puts the round plug at a better accessible angle and puts the post horizontal to the ground. The post is the same size as the stock post.
General things to note:
The following is a note from Phil D. I copied it from below and I wanted to make everyone aware of a fitment issue that may effect the installation.
Just to add a little info, I had to machine some clearance off the back of a 5m pulley (maybe just a couple 100ths, not a big deal) so it didn't rub the camry alternator's case. The particular 5m pulley I used was a heavy solid cast piece as opposed to one of the thin-walled style pulleys. I have seen at least three different 7-rib pulleys on supra alternators. I believe the original factory pulley was a thinner-wall cast piece with four sort-of "dimples" on the inner face maybe for some sort of spanner wrench or SST. I've also seen stamped pulleys with a smooth rolled inner face. I'm sure that pulleys get swapped around wherever alternators are rebuilt and they may not come back with the original pulley, or at least the ones that get rebuilt for Autobone and OhReallys don't. Anyhoo, just something to look out for anyone else doing this mod.
The belt I came up with to switch to the Camry alternator (without swapping pulleys or anything) is off a 1990 Ford Escort. The AC belt (for factory installed AC, but not dealer installed) off a 1987-90 Mustang 4 cyl will also work. The 90 Escort Alt belt is a touch shorter, while the Mustang AC belt is a touch longer. Cheaper auto parts stores like Autozone split the difference and only stock one belt for both apps, which is perfect for us. So if you are heading down to buy a new alternator and belt, It is no extra work at all to simply buy an alternator for a 92 Camry and a belt for a 90 Escort and install just like the parts for an 84-86 Supra, except without using 1 rib on the crank or w.p.
Ford 2.3L was perfect fit belt. Alternator fit right in. Easy swap...No more dead batteries in the morning hopefully. Figured i would share as im stoked. from Mark [at Vancouver Toyota] Nippon Alt was 260 shipped with core dep.
Part # for belt is 4060360 bout 20$ for a decent goodyear
OK, I just completed this upgrade and would like to offer my :twocents: for people who do this in the future and don't want to swap out the alternator pulleys...
When you buy your new 1992 Camry alternator, just get the belt that goes with it! The original '84-'86 Supra uses a 7-rib 36.2" long belt. The '92 Camry V6 uses a 6-rib 37" long belt. The adjustment may be close to being all the way extended, but there was still a little bit of room at the end of mine when I got it tight enough. Everything else was plug-n-play.
Hope this helps!!
EDIT: FYI - The 1991 Camry came with a 2.5L V6 and the alternator is only 70 amps. The belt for the '91 Camry is also a different length.
And yes, there is a disadvantage to modifying a stock alternator to higher current. The result is never as good as an alternator that was originally designed for that current, due to the smaller enclosure and compromises required to get a higher peak.
From: A non US Toyota (perhaps a 1J (?)). Don't know what. Need a someone with access to look it up, please.
P/N on alternator is 27060-42020 this number has been superceeded by 27060-42021
Note from mitchred88 about the possible source of the alternator.
If the 100 amp alt is off a lexus v8 which Shawn and I suspect (will know for sure in the morning) then the early sc400 IE 1/94 and earlier used a 120 amp alt. Should be the same conversion but 120amp. I have one fitted on my 7m. All that I had to do was grind on the tensioner bracket to make it fit the larger diameter of the lexus alt. pulley was a direct swap for the 7m no drilling needed. I had to use a bolt and nut for the lower mount as opposed to the stock bolt.
Cost: $687 new from Toyota. Even though it is not for a US car it can be ordered through Toyota.
Tools:
12mm, 10mm, and 14mm wrench/socket
Side cutters
New alternator belt (must be a touch longer than stock). The one I used is 92cm and is the perfect length (The belt is 6-rib and 94 cm in length).
17mm or 43/64 inch Drill bit if modifing 5M pulley
Install:
The pully is different than the stock or Camry alternator. I am going to make the assumption it can be put in un-altered. the pulley is shorter and will use the 6 groves closest to the engine on the crank pulley. A 6-rib belt will need to be used if the pulley is not changed. I have not verified that it will line-up un changed. Changing the pulley is the same as it is for the Camry pulley.
The post on the alternator is bigger than the stock post. What I did was cut the connector. The connector makes a solid circle, look at the connector while it is on the post and cut the right side of the connector close to the wire. I opened the connector up just enough to get it over the post. The reason it is cut on the right side and not anywhere else is because when you tighten the nut the connector should not spread open, it can still spread open but it is less likely this way.
With that said, getting the alternator in is a pain in the butt, first off it is bigger in length and girth. It is the same length as the Camry alternator. The girth is a problem because it will hit the lower radiator hose, not much but it will make the install frustrating. Make sure you protect the radiator hose against abrasion.
It is a tight fit and caused problems getting it in. you will need to at least loosen the PS adjustment bolt and may need to remove it. I say this because the mounting bracket for the PS and alt are the same. The bracket is bolted to the block and is free floating between the PS and Alt. What I had to do was take the PS adjustment bolt out and start the Alt adjustment bolt then put the PS adjustment bolt back in.
The electrical connections are in the same location as the Camry's Alt (rotated 90 deg. away from the block).
Here are some pics of the alt.
Note location of adjustment bolt hole (it is close to the minimum amout of adjustability) and of lower radiator hose.
Dang, great writeup, thanx a bunch, as may help with a later MKII.
Sorry for me being nieve, but would I just not need to swap my twin v-belt pulley on, cause I thought the plugs are the same.
If the 100 amp alt is off a lexus v8 which Shawn and I suspect (will know for sure in the morning) then the early sc400 IE 1/94 and earlier used a 120 amp alt. Should be the same conversion but 120amp. I have one fitted on my 7m. All that I had to do was grind on the tensioner bracket to make it fit the larger diameter of the lexus alt. pulley was a direct swap for the 7m no drilling needed. I had to use a bolt and nut for the lower mount as opposed to the stock bolt.
Ok, just dug out my NIB 82 alt twin belt and have a 84 alt on my lap.
As pictured, the 84+ alt has a round plug.
The 82 alt has a 'square' plug (female too) but has a 'pigtail' male plug that goes into the plug hole in the alt and the other end is a larger square plug.
Ok, just dug out my NIB 82 alt twin belt and have a 84 alt on my lap.
As pictured, the 84+ alt has a round plug.
The 82 alt has a 'square' plug (female too) but has a 'pigtail' male plug that goes into the plug hole in the alt and the other end is a larger square plug.
But one suspicion I have is the pigtail off the 82 can be spliced into the wires of the round plug. So you parts whores out there need to send me some round plugs with some wire so I can try these 'round plug alts'...
The stock 82 alt is 60 and 65A, so if it's as simple as a plug rewire, I've got a 1000 watt stereo system to tell you guys about .
The wires can be pinned from one plug to the other,how do you think we've done 83 7mgte swaps The issue yet to check,is if the old style pully,can be made to fit/work with the newer alt.Upgrade will also mean resistor in driver kick panel as per Leslie/Dave A.,for 82/3
The other option for a high output alternator is late MR2s which supposedly had 120 Amp units. They are supposedly a direct swap on 7M, just a little fatter all around.
what's up gang...? i have been searching for proper hood props. are they available anywhere? the ball joint at the hood end and then the bolt anchors the "factory" eyelet end to the inside of the fender...can't find them anywhere. thank you.
To help alleviate a lot of misinformation, or at least most of it, I decided I should make a thread for and about the (in)famous 6MGE.
Starting with new newbiest of all newb information, JDM simply stands for Japanese Domestic Market e.g. did not come to the United States. This engine is a very...
I'm working on getting more of these going...but they are time consuming for me, so thanks for your patience!! If anyone sees a goof up, please let me know by PM so I can change it!
5MGE
PNC
12261 12261-43010 Vent Hose, cam cover to TB, $16.71
12262 12262-43020 Vent Hose, cam cover...
The speedometer drive gear drives the speedometer driven gear. The driven gear is easily removed from the side of the transmission, even with the transmission on the vehicle. The driven gear drives an elbow connector that drives the speedometer cable which goes up into the back of the...
All,
Finally, after several years of procrastination :banme: I have finally gotten around to writing up the Trim Code list for the US Spec 79 - 86 MKI & MKII's. Like the Paint Code information that I have in another thread, I was able to gather this information from many visits to junkyards...
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