[83CelWA]

Can get it a lot cheaper than buying a brand new high amp alternator.

~$40 for a J/Y 140A alt, ~$10 for the wiring, ~$2 for the resistor, ~$10 for a new belt. That is under $65 and you will not find an end to the 140A available.

 

[alfun]

To the guys who re-drilled their stock pulley to 17MM.

How do you remove and install the pulley without the SSTs?

I have read the TSRM and don't quite understand it.

Removing starting on Step #4.

Installing starting on Step #3.

You have to torque the pulley nut 29 ft-lb and then 81 ft-lb?

 

[83CelWA]

How do you remove and install the pulley without the SSTs?

I just use an air impact wrench.

 

[Wolfgang]

i just use an air impact wrench.

x2...

 

[Marblehead]

I performed this mod on my ’83 at the time of installing a 6M about 6 months ago. Pulled an alternator from a yard Camry. Yes, the resistor mod was also performed in the fuse box. I’ve recently been having some weird gremlins unlike anything I’ve experienced before with a failing alternator. If anyone wishes to read about it and has thoughts or ideas on what the problem may be, the post is located here:

http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/s...charge-light-coming-on-after-turning-off-AC……..

***EDIT EDIT EDIT*** My question below, about two part numbers, was asked and answered on page 13. I just re-read this FAQ from beginning to end.
But that’s not the purpose of this post. I was at my local Toyota dealer today getting some other items and asked for pricing on a ’92 Camry alternator as well. For the V6, their system showed two different part numbers that changed in mid-92. The part numbers did NOT supersede one another. In the description both were 80amp but revealed nothing else. Any idea what the differences may be? Perhaps just a change in source or is there a change to the plug or pulley?

Electric lady land.
Scott

 

[83CelWA]

Update my writeup since I found out tonight that with the pulley off of the later OEM alt, the flat OEM alternator belt is the proper length for the CS144 swap.

 

[black_veilside]

ok guys, i did the 80 amp swap today. the alternator is from a 92 lexus es300 with the round plug. the funny thing is that everyone here have to drill their 5m pulley to 17mm to fit the alternator. all i did was take my pulley out and swap it over without drilling the pulley. it fit right on it perfectly. now did this sound right?.

 

[Darrow]

Do the light dim with everything on? If they stay nice and bright then I would roll with it. Should have had to increase the hole a little.

 

[black_veilside]

correction, those dummy at TAP gave me the wrong alternator. i went to pick a part an pull one out of a 92 camry v6 and it was alot bigger then the one that tap gave me. so i returned the es300 alternator for a camry one and now i have two. and everyone is right. i have to drill the pully bigger.

 

[alfun]

So everyone just used a drill press with a 17MM drill bit and have had no problems? I tried to do this at two shops and they wouldn't do it for me. They said it wouldn't come out true (perfectly round) and that I would need to find someone with a mill/lathe machine to get it true.

 

[Rockheadjc]

So everyone just used a drill press with a 17MM drill bit and have had no problems? I tried to do this at two shops and they wouldn't do it for me. They said it wouldn't come out true (perfectly round) and that I would need to find someone with a mill/lathe machine to get it true.

Find a true machine shop or slice a rib off...

 

[Darrow]

If you are worried about being 100% true then take a razor blade and cut off a rib.

Here is the thing about drilling out the hole to make it larger. Every single hole I drill into metal that is larger than 1/2 inch I do a pilot hole. Well in this case you just have a larger pilot hole. It will self center unless you really try to get it off to one side.

HTH

 

[Suprabee]

Just did the upgrade using a 92 lexus es300 alt (80 amp) and cut one rib off the OEM stock belt. I did not have to increase tension on the belt either with removing one rib. Belt/pulleys are working as before, and not concerned about any effects this may have on the water pump bearing, as has been suggested.

rick

 

[SupraFiend]

you could always just buy a new 6 rib belt too... The dayco belts have the number of ribs in the part number. Get the part number for the factory belt and buy one with a 6 instead of the 7, easy to find. I run 4 rib belts due to my 7m crank pulley, no problems.

 

[supra-b]

Has anyone had a squeal problem that wont go away after performing this mod? I have a 6m with the camry alt and when I turn the car on it squeals like crazy then after it warms up a bit it goes away. Of course I thought it was a loose belt but everything is new and tight. Then I realized that when I turn the lights on it squeals and lights off it stops...bad alt maybe? Its embarrasing cruisin especially at night with this stupid noise!

 

[canadian_psyko]

It's the belt slipping when the alt is under load, tighten it some more. You shouldn't need much.

 

[Darrow]

The way I do my belts is:
Tighten till you think its tight. Run the engine and listen for sequel and tighten some more if you hear it. The belt will loosen over time and will need to be re-tightened. I have 6 ribs on mine so it has a little more tension than the stock tension.

 

[supra-b]

Hmm, Im going to try that but its so tight right now that I think its going to POP! Theres no flex at all.

 

[Darrow]

Is it a squeak like rubber or a squeak like metal on metal. Mine was fairly tight. You can always swap out for the 7 rib pulley and there will be less tension.

 

[supra-b]

Already have the 7rib belt. I took the alternator off and spun the pulley by hand. It spins freely but I heard a faint squeal sounds like a tiny mouse. I took it apart and did not see any rubbing inside, i took the bearing and repacked it with grease put it back together and.........SAME SHXXT! Its so annoying. But it only happens when the lights are turned on I guess its under load but should I change the alt$$? Just wondering if anyone had this problem.