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Hold tight, it'll be worth it.

...and ECU cuts fuel entirely (injectors off) on decel above 1700rpm, so what you're seeing on the AFR gauge there is totally normal. What you're seeing during boost is normal for those running a standard FPR. Next time I'm in Knox (still there once every few months) we should catch up!

--billyM
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Hold tight, it'll be worth it.

...and ECU cuts fuel entirely (injectors off) on decel above 1700rpm, so what you're seeing on the AFR gauge there is totally normal. What you're seeing during boost is normal for those running a standard FPR. Next time I'm in Knox (still there once every few months) we should catch up!

--billyM
Yes please get in touch with me, I have more questions also, look me up on fb if your on there John Womack
And anytime you come down let me know. .. could always use some assistance

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Discussion Starter #45
@Billy so when I'm engine braking it's normal to see a lean reading? I'll take a video later I've been just driving and when I need to slow down I've gone to neutral and just used brakes and this has always had me worried. .....

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Off throttle should have no fuel basically. It should read super lean like 16:1 or more
On boost I would run it 11.5:1 or richer until you get it dialed in.
Idle should be a little rich compared to stoich so maybe 13:1
Cruise or light load like on the freeway it should be 14.5:1 or so.

With this mid 80s computer and AFM controlling everything your numbers are going to be a bit off but that is fine.
As long as its rich in boost and not pig rich cruising(11:1 or worse) it will run ok

Be careful with the timing as you have no way to retard it while on boost and make sure you have a few steps colder spark plugs
 

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Discussion Starter #47
I'm running ngk g powers currently.
Idle as of only on stock fpr, is 13,5-13,8 cruising has been around 11,2-11,5 and in boost and keep in mind I haven't been pushing it hard, I'm seeing 3-4 psi and baking off and seeing 12,5 sometimes 13,5 but im backing out

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Flyjum - not "no fuel basically", but rather no fuel literally, the ECU code is literally to cut fuel injectors any time the IDL switch is triggered in the TPS if above 1700rpm. Additionally, once warm, at idle and cruise - anything other than high throttle load, you should see it bouncing back and forth either side of 14.7 (closed loop).

Patience, it will be worth it.

--billyM
 

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I'm running ngk g powers currently.
Idle as of only on stock fpr, is 13,5-13,8 cruising has been around 11,2-11,5 and in boost and keep in mind I haven't been pushing it hard, I'm seeing 3-4 psi and baking off and seeing 12,5 sometimes 13,5 but im backing out

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I would not even try to boost without something to correct fuel for boost. Lean and no boost retard is a bad combo
Seems rich on cruise considering the fuel setup should be near stock right now.
Do you have the e-manage on the car?

Do you know the part number on the plugs? Stock plug temps are warm for a turbo setup BPR5ES11 is a stock plug the 11 on the end is for gap
I run a NGK BPR8ES which is a 3 temp ranges colder than stock. No issues with fouling out or anything like that so far but I live in hot AZ. BPR7ES is a little warmer but still considered a pretty cold plug
Copper plugs work great and are cheap. Only reason to run expensive plugs is because they last longer.

So with the deceleration fuel cut the AFM has nothing to do with when it shuts the fuel off? Just wondering as my TPS was completely non functional and the car ran fine without any CELs.
 

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I <3 my supra
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Hey 85mk2supi! Didn't I see you in Knoxville at the meet near Food City on Clinton Hwy last year? I was shotgun in a 280zx.
 

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I <3 my supra
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You me and lunds need to go troll the parking lots in a small convoy, supra style. Looking forward to seeing another one boosted!
 

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Discussion Starter #56
So bringing up the safc2 again. ....

I wired it up according to a write up on the forum

My car is a 85

But I'm having a issue with it, when the afm wire is connected to the safc2 and all my neo points are zeroed out the car runs rich as hell! I can add fuel but it gets worse. ......can't remove fuel. .....

So I've disconnected the afm wiring from the safc2 and I'm currently running a tampered spare afm in order to tune. ....
So my question is. ......

Anyone had this type of confusion?
I'm pretty positive it was all connected correctly, what could it be? (Keep in mind when the afm signal wire was wired to the safc2 I tried a stock afm (not opened up and a opened one that was dialed way way way back with no differences)

Any help is appreciated

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I had the running rixh problem. Adjusting the afm made no difference. What I wound up doing was checking wiring. I found that the wiring harness had been tampered and the afm was not receiving a 5 volt signal. Putting the right wires in the right places on the computer side, along with adjusting the air bypass screw on the afm resolved the issue.
 
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