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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

Im in the process of performing this upgrade. There's a ton of info on this topic and definitely very helpful. From what I researched here is everything needed for the front upgrade + stock rear refresh. I am going to order all the parts today and just want to make sure I am getting the right parts and also ensure I'm not forgetting anything.

Current set up is stock 83 brakes and stock 14" p-type wheels running 225/60/14 tires (will eventually upgrade wheels and tires).

Thanks!

FRSport.comRockAuto - Front Upgrade:

  • 1996 Q45 Caliper FR - CENTRIC 14142079 Includes: Caliper, Hardware, and Bracket. Front Right. Info
  • 1996 Q45 Caliper FL - CENTRIC 14142080 Includes: Caliper, Hardware, and Bracket. Front Left.Info
  • 1996 MPV Rotors X 2 - DURA-GO BR31241 {#125542}. Front; Vented. Info. All the guides say use the 4x4 version but RockAuto doesn't seem to specify so are the mpv rotors all the same???
  • 1996 Q45 MONROE Brake Pads CX587 Info
  • Longer Wheel Studs X 8 DORMAN 610414 M12-1.50 Serrated Wheel Stud; 14.38mm Knurl; 45mm Length. Info
  • LISLE 22800 Wheel Stud Installer Info
RockAuto - Rear Stock Refresh:
  • CENTRIC 12644018SL StopTech Sport Slotted Brake Disc Info
  • CENTRIC 12644018SR StopTech Sport Slotted Brake Disc Info
  • CENTRIC 10202400 C-TEK Metallic Rear Info
  • CENTRIC 11744005 Disc Brake Hardware Info
Machine Shop
  • Redrill rotors to 4x114.3
  • Grind/machine down stock hubs to fit MPV Rotors
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You cannot in any way fit the Q45 calipers under stock wheels.
I read conflicting info on stock rims fitting under the Q45's. But I think it depends on whether they are ptype vs l-type and mainly if they are at least 15" or bigger. I'm planning to upgrade the wheels anyway so no biggie. Guess I'll have to convince the wife to buy the rims here soon too.

Also, slotted rotors are for ninnies...
So skip the slotted rotors and just get regular ones for the rear? The stoptechs are quite a bit more but i always thought they were good. i know raptorracing sells their stuff.
 

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Slotted and/or drilled = performance placebo

You don't need the stud installer either. Just go to the hardware store and get a stack of 1/2" washers and an M12x1.5 nut. You can also use an upside down cheap steel wheel lug nut if you have one from another car. IMO if you're taking the hub off its much easier to just use a press to remove and install them.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You don't need the stud installer either. Just go to the hardware store and get a stack of 1/2" washers and an M12x1.5 nut. You can also use an upside down cheap steel wheel lug nut if you have one from another car. IMO if you're taking the hub off its much easier to just use a press to remove and install them.
Thanks for the tip. That will save me like $20 and a headache I'm sure. My neighbor has a harbor freight drill press so I'll just take the hub off. I'm also going to replace the wheel bearings all the away around while everything is apart.
 

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Drill press isn't going to help you with anything. You want a hydraulic or arbor press. It's not required though a nut, some washers, and an impact will work.
 

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There IS a difference between 4x4 and regular MPV rotors - you must use the 4x4 front rotors as they are bigger and have a higher "hat" to position the disc over the hub correctly. Maybe look for 1994 rotors instead, as 96 is at the edge of what fits and may be mistaken for rwd rotors.

The calipers WILL fit under MOST of the factory p-type wheel, but the angled part of the inside of the rim hits the caliper. You would have to run spacers up front, and/or grind some of the caliper away for clearance. I have 14" Ansen Sprint slot mags that will fit over this brake combo, yet my 15" Prime hammer wheels hit the caliper. It all depends on the shape of the rim.
 

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Dan is correct. You definitely need the 4WD front rotors. I do seem to remember that all the 4WD MPV's were 3.0L V6's and that the proper years are either 90-94 or 91-94, not 96. I think the Q45 calipers are from 90-96 though and that might be where the confusion comes from.
Incidentally, I'm running this setup as part of a 5 lug conversion and it works great. I'm using an AL MK III master cylinder with the stock booster and this works great as well. The rears are OEM.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I got all the parts for the upgrade and ensured I ordered the 4wd mpv rotors. Tonight, i took off the hubs and rotors. I honestly don't think they have been taken apart since the car rolled off the factory line. The grease was clean and oozing out. Car only has 78k miles on the chassis so possible i guess everything is original.







I need to take the hubs and the mpv rotors to a machine shop this week and get the machine work done. I think I'll have them press out the bearings and press new ones in as well as the oil seals.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Found a machine shop here and they recommended to bore out the mpv rotors to fit over the wheel hub. And then of course redrill the holes on the rotors. Any reason why this wouldn't work? Makes sense to me but wasn't sure if that route would impact wheel fitment or anything

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Discussion Starter #13
Good point didn't think about that . I was thinking path of least resistance.

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When I did mine I had to machine the outside diameter of my hubs to get them to fit inside the rotor, not confident you could machine the rotor to fit over the hubs like that.

Mike


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Don't waste your time... See here for the perfect swap.

Look for a set of 1990 to 1992 Infiniti M30 front wheel hubs. They are designed for a floating disc, are 4x114.3 and use the same bearings as our cars. Just change out the studs to 12x1.5mm (Nissan uses 12x1.25mm).

The wheel center bore is 66.1mm, machine down to 60.1mm if you really want to.
 

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Fun fact about using the stock wheel hub, you can leave the entire thing assembled, put a bench grinder on the floor at a 45deg angle, and slightly lower the control larm onto the spinning grinder to home-machine your own pieces.

--billyM
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I just got the hubs and rotors back from the machine shop. 200 bucks for the whole job. What's the advantage of the M30 hubs other than you don't have to machine them? I tried to source them knew and rock auto doesn't sell them.

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Discussion Starter #19
So tonight, I get everything put back together and I go to put the hubs back onto the spindle and......the mpv rotors don't fit :32: Did I check fitment before getting them re-drilled? Of course not!

Am I retarded and not do something right or are these the wrong rotors? I researched this a 100 times and triple checked the dimensions on the rotors I ordered match all the threads on this topic....grrr. http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/showthread.php?38882-FAQ-Rotor-Specs&highlight=300zx

1992-1995 MPV Front (4wd only)
Number of Bolts/Holes: 5
Bolt Circle Dimension: 4.5"
Discard Thickness: 1.024"
New Surface Thickness: 1.1"
Outside Diameter: 10.86"
Overall Height: 2.515"
Vented/Solid Design: Vented

Rotors ordered DURA-GO BR31161 {#125227} Info If you convert the mm specs to inches, they match the specs above.

Discard Thickness 25.908mm (1.02 inches)
Nominal Thickness 27.94 (1.1 inches)
Height 63.8 mm (2.511 inches)
Lug 5
Outer Diameter 275.7 mm (10.85 inches)
Pattern 114.3 mm
Type Vented
Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 125227

HELP!

As you can see in the pics below, the rotor hits the caliper bracket on the strut assembly. There's no way this thing is going to clear and allow the hub to completely slip into its place. Now, it's possible i have the rotor on backwards but if you flip it then the rotors sticks out way to forward and will foul with the wheel. FYI - I took the dust shield off to get a better look at what the rotor is hitting.

















They are designed for a floating brake disk and the MPV disk clears them.

Nissan dealer or do what I did find them here.
 
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