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Discussion Starter #1
Rebuilt 7M

So it's rebuilt at last & I am 650kms out of 1000 into running it in. I hate driving her right now. She wants to GO, but I have to hold her back to max around 4000rpm shifts & no hard launches or really exerting her at all. I absolutely cannot wait to reach 1000kms, shim the wastegate & retune for max power, running stock, bar the 3" exhaust & management. Just a question or two. I have the ffg gauges: water temp, oil temp, oil pressure, boost & a shift light, all Autogauge smogged gauges. I cannot find a pillar mounted triple pod anywhere that will fit the pillar itself, & this includes the Autogauge pod. That aside, the pod itself is quite obtrusive & I don't really like it there. The other option I have (see pic below) is to mount them on my dash. Not at all keen on this, as I don't want to put a hole in my dash. What are the implications in terms of what is underneath the location I may want to mount? Will this be a mission? The other question I have, where is the bulb in the drivers footwell located under the dash? I can't seem to find it.
See engine pics below.




 

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dont go over 3K rpm, specially after the rebuilt , change the oil and filter after 500 miles (800km), and u will feel the difference, then for the next 2000 miles (3200 km) just take it easy and consider your engine ready to do :mk2_vroom
 

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Discussion Starter #3
OK, I read the same elsewhere on the forum, regarding the oil change, which I will do at 1000kms, but I am not sure what you mean about the next 3200kms. If I had to continue driving the car the way I do now, I swear I'll go mad. I bought my car on 160 000kms about 5 years ago & put on 20 000kms or so in that time & this is with daily commuting. 3200kms will take me the better part of a year!!! I'm eagerly anticipating tearing up some tarmac!!!
 

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I actually have a question about that too. I bought a used JDM engine 7mgte to put in my mk2. when I get it running I have a new centerforce dual friction clutch that says wait a little while before punching it...The enginge has been sitting for awhile. But its not a fresh rebuild. Do I need to do the same thing with the oil change? How long should I wait on letting her rip the pavement? I got a similar set up to this one (all in my signature). By the way that engine is really perty
 

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just like he said, you don't really need to be in break in mode much more than 500mi. after that i would still take it somewhat easy, but you can drive normally. i just wouldn't be going to the track the day after 500mi, or doing hard launches especially if you also have a new clutch which also needs 500mi+ break in. think about a new car hot off the line, they don't go through any break in. ppl just drive off the lot and think nothing of it.

after your 500mi oil change i would also check your head torques and exhauast header bolts if aftermarket and you should be good to go. then just drive to work every day as you normally would and after 1k or so then consider it safe to go wild. time for boost and dyno tune. i hate how on TV they always show the guys getting done with a fresh rebuild and the first thing they do is throw it on a dyno with no break in time. that would be the worst thing you could do next to not adding oil.
 

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I actually have a question about that too. I bought a used JDM engine 7mgte to put in my mk2. when I get it running I have a new centerforce dual friction clutch that says wait a little while before punching it...The enginge has been sitting for awhile. But its not a fresh rebuild. Do I need to do the same thing with the oil change? How long should I wait on letting her rip the pavement? I got a similar set up to this one (all in my signature). By the way that engine is really perty
on a used engine you don't have to do a break in period, but you may want to just put cheap oil in it at first and do a good flush before adding expensive synthetic.

the clutch needs a break in though, and about 500mi is standard. some clutches will still slip some during the first 500 until they really get a good bite and then hold on. you also need to have the flywheel resurfaced before installing the clutch if you haven't already done so. just take it easy on the clutch, stop and go is the best and don't try to do hard launches or traffic light racing. just drive normal and take easy smooth shifts. highway miles don't really count because it just stays in the same gear most of the time. the clutch needs to be cycled though all gears over and over to break it in. daily driving is best.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
just like he said, you don't really need to be in break in mode much more than 500mi. after that i would still take it somewhat easy, but you can drive normally. i just wouldn't be going to the track the day after 500mi, or doing hard launches especially if you also have a new clutch which also needs 500mi+ break in. think about a new car hot off the line, they don't go through any break in. ppl just drive off the lot and think nothing of it.

after your 500mi oil change i would also check your head torques and exhauast header bolts if aftermarket and you should be good to go. then just drive to work every day as you normally would and after 1k or so then consider it safe to go wild. time for boost and dyno tune. i hate how on TV they always show the guys getting done with a fresh rebuild and the first thing they do is throw it on a dyno with no break in time. that would be the worst thing you could do next to not adding oil.
When you say after 1K it's safe, does the 1000miles (1600kms) include the initial break in 500mi (800kms)? Or is it separate making it 1500mi (2400kms) overall?
 

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including the initial 500, so 1k total is all you really need for taking it real easy. if something is going to fail it will let you know within that period. mainly the point of the break in is to be sure the rings are properly seated and sealed, and that the rest of the moving parts develop their initial wear patterns (for lack of better terms). then the purpose of the first 500mi oil change is from that, there will be a small amount of metal shavings floating around in there due to the initial wearing going on, and you want to get rid of that before it destroys your new bearings. the first 1k in total allows for things like springs, lifters, and cams to be relaxed a little and settle properly before punching it. this also allows anything defective to break or something you forgot to do or tighten to let you know there's a problem before it's catastrophic. it also wouldn't be a bad idea to do a 2nd oil change at the 1k mark. for this reason is why a lot use dino oil for break in and then switch to synthetic. it gets expensive to keep changing it. it used to be said that synthetic wasn't good for break in, but they make them a lot better now and many now do use synthetic right from the start with no problems. it's more of a cost factor for me.

after that you are pretty safe and there's not much point in waiting another couple thousand mi imo. you will read several different break in procedures around the net and it doesn't mean any of them are necessarily right or wrong, but some are just not really necessary. i say after 1k you are ready for dyno tuning and for turning up the boost. then take it somewhat easy again just to make sure it can handle it before really going nuts and racing. that's of course still being on the somewhat cautious side of things. some ppl will just build it and take it right out. doesn't mean there will be problems but there is a much higher risk to prematurely losing all your hard work and money you just sunk into the engine. i like to be safe, but also reasonable and don't like to take unnecessary steps or risks. use your own judgment. i'm sure others will chime in here with different advice. i'm less experienced than a lot of others on here, but i know how these things work.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
including the initial 500, so 1k total is all you really need for taking it real easy. if something is going to fail it will let you know within that period. mainly the point of the break in is to be sure the rings are properly seated and sealed, and that the rest of the moving parts develop their initial wear patterns (for lack of better terms). then the purpose of the first 500mi oil change is from that, there will be a small amount of metal shavings floating around in there due to the initial wearing going on, and you want to get rid of that before it destroys your new bearings. the first 1k in total allows for things like springs, lifters, and cams to be relaxed a little and settle properly before punching it. this also allows anything defective to break or something you forgot to do or tighten to let you know there's a problem before it's catastrophic. it also wouldn't be a bad idea to do a 2nd oil change at the 1k mark. for this reason is why a lot use dino oil for break in and then switch to synthetic. it gets expensive to keep changing it. it used to be said that synthetic wasn't good for break in, but they make them a lot better now and many now do use synthetic right from the start with no problems. it's more of a cost factor for me.

after that you are pretty safe and there's not much point in waiting another couple thousand mi imo. you will read several different break in procedures around the net and it doesn't mean any of them are necessarily right or wrong, but some are just not really necessary. i say after 1k you are ready for dyno tuning and for turning up the boost. then take it somewhat easy again just to make sure it can handle it before really going nuts and racing. that's of course still being on the somewhat cautious side of things. some ppl will just build it and take it right out. doesn't mean there will be problems but there is a much higher risk to prematurely losing all your hard work and money you just sunk into the engine. i like to be safe, but also reasonable and don't like to take unnecessary steps or risks. use your own judgment. i'm sure others will chime in here with different advice. i'm less experienced than a lot of others on here, but i know how these things work.
I tend to be a cautious person as well, & the fact is I had to spend more than I could technically afford to rebuild this motor, so 1000 miles (1600kms)
I can live with. My clutch should actually be broken in now at almost 700kms, considering it was in the car before I ran the bearing for 150 kms or so.

What I will do then:
-Get to 500 miles (800kms) & do an oil & filter change (I am using Shell Helix - blue can).
-Run the car with regular driving for another 800kms & do another oil & filter change, & then tune.

The good part is that I can do a few long trips over a couple of weekends to cover the latter 500 miles, or it will take me far too long (500 miles = 6 months). This sort of breaking in does not require stop go driving I assume, so it should be fine. I guess it will also give me time to figure out what to do with my gauges :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Looks clean, where is the TPS?
No TPS. I've been asked this question somewhere else in this forum before & after consulting with my mechanic, other mechanics & the local management expert, I was told that the management system I am using does not require it.
 

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Yep. Just emailed them. Looks like they are Based out of Florida here. Going to see what Information I can get on these Boxes. From the website it doesnt look to be too shabby of a setup.

thanks
 

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Yep. Just emailed them. Looks like they are Based out of Florida here. Going to see what Information I can get on these Boxes. From the website it doesnt look to be too shabby of a setup.

thanks
Sorry, I should have clarified, when I said locally built & manufactured, I meant in South Africa. From what I have heard, the systems are being exported all over the world. To what degree, I have no clue, so it's very possible that thay have a base of operation, as you suggested, in the US. Definately a system worth looking at if you can get it, & will probably be cheaper than most of whats available there already.
 

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AEM: $1400-$1800 Year Dependant
MOTEC $2500-$5000

There are others but not ones that I would use at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I have almost reached 800kms & booked the car in for an oil & filter change & overall checkup as suggested. Just need to now if I need to retorque the headstuds as they are ARP. He will check the manifold studs, for any boost or vacuum leaks etc.......then on to the next 800kms.
 
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