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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

I am about to embark on the above upgrade, and would like some feedback from others.

Has anyone successfully done the above conversion ?

If so, how did it go, and what were the results ?

Is it as easy as it appears to be and what were the fuel/Air mixtures like under power ? Does the TCCS have the ability to seldf learn at full power settings, or does it use the preset maps as the basline ?

Cheers

Michael B
 

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Hey,

I did this upgrade about 3+ years ago on my mk3...so forgive me if my information is not accurate enough. I don't have any a/f reading, but i can say that the install is quite simple. Anyone with basic mechanical knowledge can handle the injector install.

I'm not a big fan of the $100 adjustment screw, so i used an afc to tune mine and it worked out just fine. This mod is not possibe(IMO) without some sort of means of adjustiment. The screw is a 'barbaric' way of tuning in my opinion and if you're running enough power to justify 550's and an afm then you should really find a more refined way of tuning your a/f.

Overall, i was quite happy with the upgrade, easy to do, realatively inexpensive and there are tonnes of people who have done it so you know it's a proven mod.

Anyway, i've babled enough...time for bed :D


 

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Discussion Starter #3
Reg Riemer Lexus AFM/550cc upgrade

Hi Karaki,

Thanks for the info. Little confused on the "afc" that you mentioned. I'd like a little more detail please, as I'm not that much of a fan of a USD $100 screw (and I've seen another dodgy version of the same method), so any extra info would be greatly appreciated

Cheers

Michael B

Adelaide, Australia
 

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No Problem Michael,

the $100 screw I'm refering to is the screw that Reg Reimer (the originator of this mod) was orginally selling with the Lexus AFM to 'fine tune' your a/f. Now any old fart could tell you that the screw he was selling was worth a total of $1.99...how and why people were paying $100 for the screw I'll never know.

Anyway, the alternatives to the screw are not much cheaper. You will need some sort of fuel computer to tweak your a/f. What this is basically doing is fooling your ecu into adding/removing fuel from the mixture at pre-set places.

There's afew out there made by greddy,hks and apexi. They're at least triple to price of the screw, but 100x the adjustability. There might be other members that tried other means of tuning with the lexus afm, but as far as i know; an adjustment screw or a fuel computer are your only options.

HTH[/url]
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi Jim,

Can you elaborate on the "Home Depot mod" ?????

I can only use one screw, so the offer of $15 to $20 for a qty of 50 is a great offer, but not really good unless we can come up with 49 other buyers !!!!! :lol:

Cheers

Michael B
 

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search www.supraforums.com

All one needs to do is "extend" the end of the screw, limiting
air flow so it idles correctly. The extra 1.0 liter of the lexus
requires this, but cause idle problems with the 7MGTE.

bbaacchhyy said:
Hi Jim,

Can you elaborate on the "Home Depot mod" ?????

I can only use one screw, so the offer of $15 to $20 for a qty of 50 is a great offer, but not really good unless we can come up with 49 other buyers !!!!! :lol:

Cheers

Michael B
 

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I'm using this upgrade for my 7mgte mk2. I didn't buy the kit from Reg (although I had Reg do the subharness for 7mgte swap but that's another story).
Here's my setup, Lexus AFM body, RC 550cc/min injectors, Aerometer AFPR and "Home Depot mod" air screw. These are used in conjunction with HKS Sport Turbo, K&N AFPIK air filter, 3" turbo back exhaust, upgraded IC, etc.
My car ran so rich at 1 bar (14.7 psi) that couldn't be tuned out without air/fuel controller computer (i.e. Apexi S-AFC or HKS S-AFR). Earlier this summer I installed S-AFR and now it runs much better (after leaning out). Currently running 1.1-1.2 bar. The custom air screw can only do so much but it does play a role in lower rpm (below 3500 rpm) and sets where fuel cut occur. The more the custom air screw is backed out the higher the fuel cut and the leaner the air fuel ratio at lower rpm. My fuel cuts in around 1.4 bar (20psi) when boost controller was set at 1.2 bar which happened occasionally (due to boost spike and cool weather).
You don't need this mod unless you have upgraded turbo and running more that 1 bar.
 

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Most importantly...

Custom AFM screw. $15-20 in qty of 50

Home Depot mod - $10

Better Air/Fuel mod tuning starts at $400 (E-Manage)
then starts to move up.
There is a lot of good information here, and I too went this route. Here are some very important things to note. YES the Lexus AFM is bigger and can MEASURE higher flows than the stock AFM. It DOES need tuning, but here are a few signs of trouble...
1. The Lexus AFM upgrade is literally a 5 minute scewdriver physical install, unless you use the EXISTING air snorkel from the old AFM. If you do - you will notice that the LEXUS afm bolts have wide shoulders at the end, requiring you to drill out larger receiver holes on the snorkel. Still not a problem - takes five more minutes.
2. With the LEXUS AFM installed, start the engine when COLD with NO THROTTLE opening at all - see if it idles, or if it stalls. IF it refuses to idle, or idles very roughly-threatening to stall, then your fuel-system is running too lean with the 550's installed, and you need to find out why: (Injectors not at spec / Low fuel-pressure / other).

I ignored this myself, and upped the idle screw setting, and she ran like a beast - I ran it like this for over a year, until I burned a rear piston - from a too lean mixture. Get this - my Tru-Boost read 29.3 PSI of boost when the piston burned, and it did not damage the face of the piston, it burned around the top ring and thru the side of it!! Lesson Learned!! CHECK YOUR MIXTURE with a competent measuring device after this upgrade. My situation was OLD 550's (one running at way below it's flow rating). Leaner means hotter - more power - yes, but can eat a piston, and/or head gasket.
Now there are other things I am doing to permit those levels of boost without detonation, or pre-ignition (trade secrets), but I was boosting to over 25 PSI daily on pump gas - you guys will be way lower than that, but still - have your mixture levels professionally checked...
That is my 2c worth of scar tissue for you.
 

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look into the MAFT (mass air flow translator) its basicly a "Lexus AFM" and a "SAFC" in one. now i put those in quotes cause someone will post up that they are different. and yes they are, but the MAFT system is proven and easy to use/install.

http://www.maftpro.com/


although all of this is still MAF, speed density (MAP) is the way to go.......


im running the gen 1 now with good results. able to add/subtract fuel +/- up to 35% each way. you set up a base map, the go into mode 2 for rpm tuning where u can get even more dialed in.
 

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I have an SAFC with a AEM Wideband.

I picked up a Lexus AFM at the junkyard for $35 and planned to do the conversion when I thought my car was up to it (W58 trans, stock diff, stock ic, 57 trim turbo... etc.).

So I have the SAFC wired in and the car is tuned to about 12/1 under boost. I bought my SAFC from my brother, used for $200. Now I'm looking to pick up some 550cc injectors this winter to do the conversion.

Does anyone know HP rating at 18 psi... bascially after this conversion? I was just wondering, I had heard 430 hp... but Idk if that's to the crank or to the wheels.

I thought about doing with MAFT pro, but I had already bought the SAFC and stumbled upon the Lexus AFM.

Anyways, I'm interested to hear some more info.

Tony
 

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Holy thread revival Batman!


That mod has been done more times than 7M's blow headgaskets. Is there really new information on it?
 

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Does anyone know HP rating at 18 psi... bascially after this conversion? I was just wondering, I had heard 430 hp... but Idk if that's to the crank or to the wheels.



Tony
Tony, you should have +- 300 to the wheels now-you should be in 340-360 range at wheels after, and all #s are approximate and vary from car to car. Others who have run 550/57 trim/Lex AFM/with SAFC all top out just under 400, but you have stock intercooler....
 

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Tony, you should have +- 300 to the wheels now-you should be in 340-360 range at wheels after, and all #s are approximate and vary from car to car. Others who have run 550/57 trim/Lex AFM/with SAFC all top out just under 400, but you have stock intercooler....
Agreed.

Maybe when I get finished and I'm not poor i'll go to a dyno!

haha

Tony
 

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With the lex/550s I believe your limiting factor to be your turbo. With a 57 trim upgrade, & lex/440s i put down what you see in my sig and would've done more if my turbo had been able to sustain the pressure I'd dialed in. as it was, my afr's were on the safe side of beautiful, but boost would peak @ 22psi and quickly settle to just under 18psi. However, keep in mind I was also hurting efficiency by running a massive cheap megan I/C.

When I get home i'll update this with my data log off that dyno so you can see the specifics (if I remember...many double IPAs are speaking to me atm)
 

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look into the MAFT (mass air flow translator) its basicly a "Lexus AFM" and a "SAFC" in one. now i put those in quotes cause someone will post up that they are different. and yes they are, but the MAFT system is proven and easy to use/install.

http://www.maftpro.com/


although all of this is still MAF, speed density (MAP) is the way to go.......


im running the gen 1 now with good results. able to add/subtract fuel +/- up to 35% each way. you set up a base map, the go into mode 2 for rpm tuning where u can get even more dialed in.
has anyone converted the afm to a map ? i searched after reading this but couldnt find a answer
 

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or buy a maft pro. or an old hks vpc setup. i however recommend going with a megasquirt 2 or 3 if you want to go map though. might as well have full control of everything.
 

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has anyone converted the afm to a map ? i searched after reading this but couldnt find a answer
On a 5M? You guys are all assuming this guy has a 7MGTE.
 
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