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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just recently replaced A blown head gasket on my 5m. When i put all the fluids back in and brand new battery it wont turn over. I noticed when i turn the key to try to start it, it makes a loud click then nothing, and gas is coming out of the cold start injector i think. It squirts out from the hollow bolt that connects the fuel line to the intake right on the fuel rail. all the wiring is connected, i replaced every single fuse. Now im stuck. Anyone have some suggestions on how I could test some stuff to narrow down whats wrong? :32:
 

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Look into the Cold Start Injector / Engine Temp switch, and the CSI Relay.

Also check that the starter relay wire is hooked up to the starter. You can hook a multimeter up to it (the starter relay wire) with some leads and check and make sure you're getting power when you crank. Also check to make sure you're getting power to the huge power lead for the starter.

Additionally you can MAKE SURE THE CAR IS IN NEUTRAL. and then MAKE SURE THE CAR IS IN NEUTRAL. With the key in the run position, and crawl under and manually JUMP across the leads for the starter with a screwdriver/wrench you don't care about (because it'll end up with scorch marks on it). BUT... MAKE SURE THE CAR IS IN NEUTRAL AND E-BRAKE SET. If you leave it in gear, the car CAN lurch forward, and potentially run you over, and keep on going... till it runs into something.
 

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As for fuel leak: you might have lost the copper crush ring that seals the connectors for the fuel line. They are always the connections for fuel line banjo bolts, etc. They are famous for disappearing...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
well ive manually turned the engine. but no it doesnt want to crank. the starter is good got it tested at auto zone. I think theres a short tho because the ecu-b fuse keeps blowing out, does that have anything to do with it not wanting to start tho?
 

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A: Learn the difference between "start" and "crank" and use them accordingly in every instance.

B: If the engine doesn't "CRANK", but the motor will turn by hand (wrench), then it's the starter.

-Starters need two things, power, and a solenoid power source. Run a jumper cable directly to the starter terminal (the big one) and then tap a jumper cable to the solenoid.

--billyM
 

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well ive manually turned the engine. but no it doesnt want to crank. the starter is good got it tested at auto zone. I think theres a short tho because the ecu-b fuse keeps blowing out, does that have anything to do with it not wanting to start tho?
My guess, insufficient ground? ECU shorting.
 

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To all:

If you haven't, put your setup in your profile so you can get more meaningful answers. Year, na or t, engine, significant mods
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hahah soo turns ot my battery wasnt hooked up right. I switched it around and the engine turned over. Butttt im missing those washers for the banjo bolt. Soo its not getting any fuel. Any suggestions? I know its kind of a small part to order or something and i think the local junkyard only has a 87 or 88 soo im kind of stuck..
 

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Any parts store has em in stock. Usually a box of assorted ones is cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well Turns out i had the washers soo i threw them on. Car still sounds the same when trying to start maybe a lil better. And its not leaking fuel from the line anymore. But it just doesnt wanna start. Im pretty sure the plugs are new maybe the timing?
 

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You MAY have other issues. Hooking up the battery terminals wrong COULD have fried something up the line. However, Double and triple check mechanical timing first. Typical problems include having cams mistimed, and distributor gear misplaced. When head was removed, was timing at TDC?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well I bought the car from my friend dissasembled. I doubt its wiring cause every fuse and relay is in tact. I dont think its the mechanical timing If anything its off one notch or so. But the distributor cap maybe because I guessed how it came off according to what looked like markings but who knows..How could I figure out how it goes on if i dont know how it came off?
 

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I would redo the timing belt on it, mine was 1 theet off, enough to make it run like crap but pretty hard to see when they are aligned.
 

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If the Block is at TDC, the marks on the cam pulleys have to be at correct spot. THEN, the distributor gear has to be in correct spot. If you know firing order, then cap position is easy to figure out. Sounds like your timing is not correct at distributor, either because cap/rotor are not in right position, or dist gear is in wrong spot. Also, ECU grounds thru grounds bolted to intake, these are often left out of re-assembly process.
 
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