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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

Looks like I need to replace the fuel pump in my '85. I've spent a lot of time on this and other sites for general tips and info about the process. Most of the posts are pretty old, and have almost no pictures. Most of these posts seem to have a common theme of rust and restoring the tank too. I may have missed it, but I didn't see anything recent or comprehensive on the subject.

I'm replacing with a Denso 950147 pump kit, and a Denso 954-0005 seal.

Anyway, before I jumped in, I figured I would see what kind of "Shoulda, woulda, coulda" tips or stories anyone might have.

Whatcha got??
 

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Be careful when removing the bolts that hold the pump hanger if they are rusty as they are easy to break. Use penetrating oil and wait overnight. Also inspect the inside of the tank for rust etc, there are lots of options for restoring a metal tank but I would suggest taking it to a shop that specialises in it, usually a radiator shop or similar.
 

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Be careful that you don't kink the fuel line above/in front of the tank and that you don't strip your fittings. Use flare nut wrenches.
 
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And remove the little hatch in the back to unplug the electrical connectors for the level sensor and pump.
 

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Flare nut wrenches are a must when working on small brake and fuel fittings.
It uses 5 edges instead of only 2. So the risk of rounding the nut is much less.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Nice. Thx. Any tips for getting as much gas out as possible? I have been siphoning a couple of gallons at a time to run my lawn mower ( I had just filled it up the day before it died, of course😐)
I have seen hardly any rust or particulates, but it's a pretty small hose...
 

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There is a drain plug under the gas tank!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
And, now that I have this thread running, I have seen several older threads about this that didn't pop up when I searched. Figures. I'll try to post some pics as I go...
 

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Hey all,
Looks like I need to replace the fuel pump in my '85.
While we're about it, why does it look like you need to replace? I assume you're not getting fuel to the rail. Have you replaced the fuel filter?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I have had the car about 5 years. Once in a while the car would turn over, but not start. Spark was good. And I could usually get it started after messing with the AFM sensor door and starting fluid. Found a blown fuse once too. Not sure what it was, as it was a stand-alone wire/fuse separate but coming from the positive battery terminal. (A previous owner made that modification.) In hindsight,when it continued to run, I think it starting was coincidentally to my actions, as opposed to because of them.

At some point it stopped running at all. I could briefly get it going with starting fluid in the intake, so it seemed lack of fuel was a good place to start.
I didn’t know how loud the fuel pump should be, so I shorted the AFM coupling to run it. Nothing. So I had my son short it while I stuck my head under the fuel tank. Again, nothing, until I thumped the tank with a rubber mallet. It whirred somewhat unsteadily to life for about 20 seconds, then ground to a stop, and blew the same fuse again. I repeated this a couple of times, each time the pump sounded less healthy. Now, nothing…
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Fuel filter is on the list to do at the same time. I don’t know much of the car history. It spent most of it’s life in the Stockton CA area, then to Arkansas for the last 5 or 10 yrs I think. Mostly Carfax info…
 

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And have a fuel tank drain plug gasket on hand if you use it.

 
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absolutely change the fuel filter, they suck to do, so they never get done...
 

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Please do NOT forget the fuel "sock". It attaches to the gasoline pick up tube. Common for them to plug up.
Especially if there is rust inside the gas tank.
You will also need flare nut wrenches for the fuel filter from hell.
I removed the drivers side engine mount B-4 I did mine. Break the fuel filter nuts B-4 removing the bracket holding it to the block.
Nuts for the filter on top. 19 and 17 mm, I think! Flare wrenches! If you have the $$, Snap-On ones are the best. Don't go cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yeah, I think I am more scared of the filter change than dropping the tank…
 

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I did mine from the top .Remove engine mount and jack the motor up about 2 " and place a 2 X4 block under it. Gives you much more room to work. Some have done the filter from the bottom!
The nuts on the filter are TIGHT!
Wear gloves to protect your hands and to minimize blood loss.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Lol. I’ve always heard that if you aren’t bleeding, you aren’t trying. Thx for the details on wrench sizes too. I have flare wrenches on my shopping list…
 

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Fuel filter fittings are banjo type, and faily big (14mm or more, don't remember), so flared wrenches not needed: you can use the close end of a wrench, or a ratchet box.
 
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A 14 mm wrench or socket fits fine. I just checked. Actually, the banjo bolts have been off and on a few times so a 9/16 " socket fits better.;)
 
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