[AF85]

I'm talking about painting the brackets with the fuel tank sealer.

 

[dannoxyz]

Is POR15 topcoat paint ok for long term submersion in gasoline/alcohol? Or are you talking about their special fuel tank sealer, i.e just painting the bracket with the same stuff you'd seal the tank with?

No top-coats inside tank. Just the Metal Prep and Rust Preventive.

These are the metal-treatment layers. Then on outside, you would use etching-primer, sanding-primer, basecoat, clearcoat on top of that.

 

[dannoxyz]

I'm talking about painting the brackets with the fuel tank sealer.

You'll still want to use their full tank sealer kit. Can substitute acetone for their degreaser/cleaner if you want. Then definitely the Metal Prep to chemically treat surface and convert residual rust. Then follow up with Tank Sealer (a thicker version of their Rust Preventive).

However, on outside, you still want to primer and paint on top of that. Perhaps undercoating to prevent dirt & sand from blasting off top layer of paint over time.

 

[AF85]

Pics of the new distributor, cap and rotor. I followed the TSRM to the letter, but the rotor faces at 6 o'clock. Verified 0 degrees on the crank (TDC of compression). Verified cams align with marks. When putting new distributor in aligned mark on the housing with the pin on the gear shaft. Thought the rotor would have been on cyl 1. We shall see I guess.


Old (on cyl 1)

New one installed.

Masked up and wire wheeled the rest of the interior floor/sides/ POR15 coating done for the floor and some of the side of the interior. Got a few patches to do for for the rear wheel wells (half dollar size hole). Was thinking about doing fiber glass for the spare tire well.

While trying to crank the car for spark I got board and fiddled with the hvac controller... scared the hell out of me when the blower kicked on at spit dust and debris I got the blower motor assy out, cleaned it really good. I am still unsure how to get the box out/apart for inspection. I would like to verify that there are no more critter condo's as that would be the last place anything could be. I have seen pics/vids on people taking apart the box and they are nested at the evap.

Also got all new clamps on the intake. Others were done, a few had to be cut off. I was thinking of painting the intake flat black... I think those kind of cosmetics are a down the road item on the spread sheet lol

A lot of work today, both on the car and prepping my shed for a space for a new 30 gal compressor. Still no spark. I so far verified:

Grounds cleaned and attached

• Battery to fender
• Battery to block (under intake manifold, near fuel filter)
• Intake manifold (underneath the runners)
• Cam cover to firewall (intake cam cover to firewall, short 6 inch wire)

I know there is one more cable near the bell housing of the trans that I can see chewed, I will have to address that obviously. I cant see that being the culprit... theres so many grounds that are verified good! As always... we shall see.

I verified at work that the primary and secondary circuits of the coil are within spec.

I did swap an ecm (84 cressida) I got when buying the rear seats. No effect.

I still should probably check continuity from ECM to ignitor. Grabbed some back probes from my box last night.

I measured voltage (or lack there of) when key on engine off at the black connector going to the coil, and the three other green connectors going to the ignitor... I had what seems like a 5v ref signal but the rest measured nothing (.4 or less).

Made a spreadsheet for all of the tasks that need to get done. I am usually extremely organized, but this project has occasionally made me drink a few more Corona's than normal lol

I always found staying organized keeps me on track... and watching tasks go to "green" is a great way to visualize the win

Obviously everything is subject to change... but I think it will slow down a bit and I can start truly goal setting tasks. When I first got the car, every time I did something, it lead to something else (flip up rear seat, now needs seats and dye...pull out interior, needs rust repair...etc.).

It is going to be awesome when all thats left is exterior cosmetics...

 

[RedP85]

Turn crank at 10 BTDC to judge on rotor pointing at #1 distributor wire properly.

Igniter feed : if you open the 1 contact green plug with thick Black/Red stripe, and key ON, do you have a strong +Batt at it?

 

[AF85]

Turn crank at 10 BTDC to judge on rotor pointing at #1 distributor wire properly.

Igniter feed : if you open the 1 contact green plug with thick Black/Red stripe, and key ON, do you have a strong +Batt at it?

Going outside and checking now... then its grilling time I appreciate your reply

 

[AF85]

Alright I saw the thicker black with red strip, probed with key on. First pic is current battery voltage, second pic is probed at connector, and grounded at battery. I did probe both sides of the connector (wasn't sure tbh). Reading was the same.

 

[AF85]

Turn crank at 10 BTDC to judge on rotor pointing at #1 distributor wire properly.

Igniter feed : if you open the 1 contact green plug with thick Black/Red stripe, and key ON, do you have a strong +Batt at it?

Regarding the timing...

So I did do it properly, and I would just have to turn the crank pulley to 10 deg to verify that rotor matches to cyl 1?

I know that to properly time everything the engine has to be running and you short the connector. I would like to make sure I did the procedure properly that way I do not chase my tail later thinking it was correct.

 

[RedP85]

Not what it should. You should have +Batt minus a few mV.
Refer to section 2 of the EWD:
No need to turn key ON yet.
Power path:

• +Batt
• Fuseable link 2.0L (blue) between +Batt to little plastic box, about 3 in long.

This then feed the Engine fuse box (plug unde it)

• Fuseable link 0.3 (Pink) inside Engine fuse box.
• MAIN RELAY #2 (relay attached to fender, just behind Engine fuse box): undo it's plug, and check White-Red stripe wire in the body harness: it is the lower right (lock tab at top, looking into sockets)

If it all check ok, it could be that MAIN RELAY #2 is the issue.

Put a jumper in that body harness plug of the relay, between the 2 contacts on the right (lock tab on top) .
This should feed the single pin green plug by the Igniter that you checked previously, with the thick Black-Red stripe wire.

If you then have +Batt, it is either the Relay is kaput, or it is not commanded.

To see if relay is commanded, take your meter at the body harness for the relay. Put + at the bottom left, - at top left. Turn the key ON, you should read +Batt. If not, check the IGN fuse in the Driver kick panel fuse box.

Ouf!

Timing: yes it should line up better.

 

[AF85]

The knowledge, and time saving advice you just dropped here is epic.

I think it is time to break out the headlamp and get outside. I will report back my findings... thank you so much!

 

[RedP85]

Do that tomorrow, at daylight, and well rested. You are in no rush.

 

[AF85]

Way to excited... had to go out and try.

My wife almost lost her eyebrows... will update in a few

 

[AF85]

Do that tomorrow, at daylight, and well rested. You are in no rush.

So I owe you a drink.... probably more imo. Your diag path was SPOT ON. Measured B+ at links, traced diagram to connector (perfect description on pin layout) and found B+. Jumped the terminals (again ty for easy description) and rechecked b/r wire at ignitor, now b+.

Soooo.... I was out there with the wife and I was teaching her on reading EWD's and what we were doing. She picked up quick and knew the task. So once we jumped the wire we went ahead and got some starting fluid... I told her just a quick squirt while I crank it (wow that sounds awful). Well she continuously sprayed and it blew a nice little flame out. No worries she is fine!! It will most definitely be a very memorable for the both of us

If I had the fuel tank connected it would be running right now thanks to you. A million thanks and I hope somehow I can repay the favor.

On the look out for the relay now. I am at ear to ear smiling right now!

 

[RedP85]

What did the test with the meter gave on the 2 left contacts of the plug? Has to be +Batt with the key ON. If not, relay will not trigger and feed the igniter. 😢

Sorry about the eyebrows... ☺

PS: Intake tubes have to be in place for continuous running. If not, it starts, then dies.

 

[AF85]

What did the test with the meter gave on the 2 left contacts of the plug? Has to be +Batt with the key ON. If not, relay will not trigger and feed the igniter. 😢

Sorry about the eyebrows... ☺

PS: Intake tubes have to be in place for continuous running. If not, it starts, then dies.

I didn't even think about testing the coil side of the relay (left). I figured the relay switch was just stuck even if the coil was energized. I should have been more thorough though. I will be checking it tomorrow. I ordered a relay on ebay (only 30 bucks).

 

[RedP85]

Hopefully the relay is your issue.
But if there is no +Batt to the coil, you're on the hunt again!

It's also rewarding 😁 for the helper (me) when you do find your issue 👍.

 

[AF85]

Hopefully the relay is your issue.
But if there is no +Batt to the coil, you're on the hunt again!

It's also rewarding 😁 for the helper (me) when you do find your issue 👍.

So I checked the left side of that connector (coil side of relay) and did not have b+.

Checked continuity of fuse, good. Replaced all fuses regardless when I first got the car.

Checked fuse box terminals for ign fuse, bottom has .25v, top has 12.1v.

Current battery voltage at 12.3.

Am I correct in assuming there is a open between the fuse and the relay?

 

[AF85]

So I just did some continuity checks...

Coil of the relay itself is good.

Have continuity from W-B of connector to ground (Ground side of circuit).

Checking from the fuse to the thin B-R wire it gives just a quick beep, not continuous. Not sure what that is... I am going to try and look that scenario up.

Below is the ewd. I have highlighted known good (voltage/ground/continuity) and presumed good (getting spark when jumping relay).

 

[RedP85]

Quick beep of meter us normally when continuity is poor (not close to 0 ohms)
Wire coming out if fuse is at red arrow wire should be the thin B-R ; (page 86 ewd)

Check that +Batt is there with key ON.

From there, it is straight to the plug of the relay.

 

[RedP85]

I think you can check with the plug in place, but you can remove it too for check, as power coming from another plug (2E)