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For the outer camber bolts, since I was doing a full metal resto to the car I was doing the camber mod too at the same time as you are, I just trimmed the offending sheet metal off the car to get better access to the bolt head lol. Took this portion off...

Annotation 2019-05-16 125955.jpg

I don't see any spot welds there in that pic, but there must be. I'm sure I had to mig weld a bead on the edge of the steel I left there, and then clean it and seal it from inside. Unless all the spot welds were inboard of that piece, then its easy as zipping it off and prime and paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #202
I too was going to remove that offending sheet, but was leaning toward just bending it out of the way. I was looking at it the other day and I don't believe there are any welds.

Either way the bolt still is so up against that edge so you would have to attach the arm beforehand and it would limit you to dropping the frame to remove the arms.
 

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Thats not really a limitation. The subframe, if left fully assembled, is just 4 nuts (plus brake lines). Also, I've never had need to remove an A arm separate of the rest of the rear subframe, they always come off together it seems (20 Supras can't be wrong lol). Even if you did have to remove just an arm, it likely wouldn't work out anyways. Getting the stock bolts to slide out often requires hammering on the other side of them due to the metal sleeves inside of the bushings. Come to think of it, I think I have actually unsuccessfully tried to remove an arm by itself before and been forced to drop the subframe anyways.

I was just under a mk2 yesterday, there are spot welds there. You could bend it into the wheel well, but I wouldn't bend it the other way as it will likely crack the paint when you bend it and then you'll have an enclosed space that you can't access. I must have welded the seam after zipping it off.
 

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Discussion Starter #204
Your way it is then with the bolts. Adjustment head to the outside! I'll take a look at that flap and think about what I want to do with it. Right now half of it is gone on the right side anyway since that panel is gonezo right now.

I got one of those front boxes welded back on but it is some hideous welding. I almost don't want to document it. I tried prying it off, but the metal just bent, so it is for sure on there, just in the ugliest way imaginable. I was having a lot of arc blowout issues welding in tight spaces and 90 degree angles.

I went to tack on the other box and further disgrace myself; however one side has like a half an inch gap so need to re-make it with more metal.
 

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Discussion Starter #205
New boxes. I kind of bit off killbill's ideas, I used 16 gauge sheet and instead of spot welding flaps I tee'd them in. The main difference between mine and his is that I more closely followed the stock angles as opposed to his more rectangular box, and I didn't internally reinforce mine as I wasn't sure how easy it's gonna be to get in there and paint and seal everything. My welding is in two words bad and blobby, but I tried prying them apart and it was just bending the metal so I think it should be alright. Most blobs are from going back to fill in gaps.











 

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Excellent.
 

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Not too bad. Don't jack off them though, they won't be strong enough for that.

For cleaning up the welds and bare metal on the inside, hole saw holes through the floor into the cavity. You will need to do one for the outside edge as well under the fender, unless you can reach into that space from the access hole in the kick panel area by your feet. Technically you should add another hole in the floor where the frame rail is too to get that last side where your weld hit.
 

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Discussion Starter #208
Nope, definitely not strong enough to jack up the car, however IIRC when reading your frankencar, any time you can tie the rocker to the frame a little stiffer than stock it's ideal.

Yup I think I can reach the rocker inside from inside, otherwise need a hole there, one in the center of the box and then I think I might be able to get into the frame with existing access holes, if not another hole there.
 

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I actually wouldn't recommend that at all. 3 point strut tower bars are very trendy, and you see them on all sorts of car, but there really is no strong metal structure to tie to in the center of our cars (and most). My solution to improve the fore/aft twist on a horizontal plane in the engine bay area was to beef up the corner braces. Its all in my reinforcement posts. The next step then is to tie into those with a strut tower bar or permanent bars to the strut tower like I did. And then the next step would be tying the front of the towers down to the frame rail, which I also did.
 

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Discussion Starter #211
I DID see those corner/up down braces and thought it was a great idea, however I was worried about clearance issues with an LS swap and so forth. How much extra space in the engine bay do those reinforcements take up? It seems like the corner brace would get in the way of the brake/clutch masters
 

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They could complicate installing replacement masters and such, that is possible, but they sit above them so there wouldn't be interference normally.

Yeah the front bars could cut into the space a really wide motor takes up, though an LS isn't as wide as a 1uz. But the bars don't actually extend that far off the strut tower. One could of course make some that are removable and or make them go the upper rad support, then permantly enforce the upper rad support and tie it to the frame rails (there is no significant strength in the upper rad support stock btw).
 

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Discussion Starter #213
They could complicate installing replacement masters and such, that is possible, but they sit above them so there wouldn't be interference normally.

Yeah the front bars could cut into the space a really wide motor takes up, though an LS isn't as wide as a 1uz. But the bars don't actually extend that far off the strut tower. One could of course make some that are removable and or make them go the upper rad support, then permantly enforce the upper rad support and tie it to the frame rails (there is no significant strength in the upper rad support stock btw).
I'm definitely considering the strut to corner, perhaps with some heim joints to allow for removal.
It says in your thread that you created your own corner piece from 12 gauge to weld the brace into. However I can't find any documentation of how exactly you went about it, and I'm not sure of any rules of thumb to go by when it comes to plates for structural attachment.

I know the upper rad support is weak cause parts of mine are bent. I didn't pay attention taking things off but hopefully everything will fit back on ok. I could also overlap some angle iron with the upper part of the mount, but not sure about then tying it to the tower/frame... I need a visualization of how much room an LS + accessories is going to take up before I think about that.

The other thing I noticed in your 82 tear apart is you mentioned the child seat tie in plates in the back are welded to the frame rail. Was thinking of a rear brace going from shock tower to shock tower to both tie ins, instead of contracting out a rear roll bar that incorporated the shock towers. It seems to me for the rear shock tower brace most of them are just attached by bolting it to the top of the shock bolt?
 

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There was one that was shock to shock directly, which isn't the best arrangement since the shocks are isolated from the body with rubber bushings. Then there was one that attached at the rear seat upper latch mount points. In fact I made one myself out of a piece of angle aluminum, and it works quite well. It definitely isn't enough on its own, the rear shock steel is floppy the way its mounted. I had the same idea you had with the child seat mounts, but I wanted to go further and make one that tied to the rear seat belt shoulder strap mounts (they're for the Euro cars, but all markets got the steel and nuts for them in the chassis). Tying the towers to each other and the frame rigidly is great, but the C pillars need to be tied in more too.

Carlos Brown made a rear strut tower bar similar to what you are proposing, he's posted pictures of it recently in his FS thread but previously in a build thread too. I think Don Lew did something similar as well.

Its on my todo list for my black 86, but way down the priority order.
 

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Discussion Starter #215
I believe I saw the Carlos bar in another thread when I was researching ideas for the back. But his ties to the rear shocks, though it does run along the side of the tower for bracing. It's still a great idea, especially if you want to keep the rear seats and don't have kids.
For everyone's reference, here is a pic


So ideal in the back would be some sort of contraption with mounting points at the seat latch, rear seat shoulder strap mount, and then the child seat mounts. I can do that easier than outsourcing a cager.
 

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Discussion Starter #216
Here is a pic of the rear seat complete with shoulder belts. Showing where the C pillar mount for those is.



There is another reinforced bolt hole below that but I don't remember what it's for as my car has been apart for too long.
 

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Forgot the pics link? Seeing nothing in the post right above.

I think Carlos's setup bolted under the top shock bushings at least. Definitely the child seat latches too.
 

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Discussion Starter #218
Hmm, I can see Carlos's brace on mine, but the other photo looks like a bad link now.
Either way, I will go and take some pictures of various mounting points once I start working on my own brace. Which will be whenever my steel square tubing arrives.
 

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Discussion Starter #219
In this picture you can see options regarding reinforced bolt holes in the rear structure. I'm not sure what the lower C pillar corner hole is used for.


Here is some string showing the general plan for the rear bracing.



I originally had the child seat string going to the middle of the cross bar, but then realized that was dumb.

Side note; what is this thing? It's just a big heavy piece of cast iron bolted to the roof about where the mirror is?

 
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