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Nice work on the bracing, you probly dont need to reinforce the rear shock mount sinne its not running true coilovers with coils and springs all in one place, with a suspension like that you need a good shock mount but for mk2 suspension id say stock is good enough,
For front bracing why dont you make a front Strut tower Brace that Also cuts back into the the middle of the firewall like this? ?
*see attached pic
Im sure that would be the best for rigedy?
You plan running full Interior in the rear? Im sure the ill look sick with the bracing and interior!

Also making a cage that you can Weld into the a and b pillar and the roof aswell would make heaps of difference for strength of car
 

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Discussion Starter #243
I'll probably be running about half the interior. I'd like to keep a lot of it, but I'm not putting the back seats back in. I also don't know what my plans are for carpeting either. I'll put some of the plastic trims back around the pillars, just need to cut holes out for the bracing. And then put the factory storage cover back over.

The problem with directly to the middle like that is the firewall is so thin, I'd need the full 6x6' patch. If you're tying it to a corner you're gonna get stronger results. Though it is a trade off, the picture you provided would also prevent more left/right tower movement, which is better for rigidity, but which would also mean more stress on the thin firewall.

Hopefully this week I'll get at least one corner reinforcement in.

I'm trying to avoid full cage work if I can. It's expensive, heavy, and I don't plan to track in any way that would require a cage if at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #244
Ran out of Weld Tru primer. Ordered some more of the plastikote stuff, but didn't check shipping, checked today and it's not supposed to get here til dec 10 - jan 16 :32: So I just ordered some copper based U-Pol for now, should get here much sooner and be less fume-y. But significantly more $$$$$


Anyway, made the corner reinforcements out of 1/8" plate. That area is kind of tricky, cause it's super bent, goes like 95 degrees, 20 degrees, 10 degrees. So I bent on the brake, then cut and welded and then bent with a hammer. Brake is only rated to 17 gauge, but 17 gauge wide and this is less wide so it worked fine.











I also tried to fill in the antenna hole as I'm probably never going to use the radio in this car, just Android Auto. I didn't do a great job, not sure if it's bad enough to do a couple more passes, or if body filler will make up the dips.

 

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Yeah that primer looks like the same stuff. Hopefully they didn't just use the Valspar formula and phase out the entire Plastikote line. Doesn't do me much good though, I don't really want to get in the habit of ordering this stuff online. So far so good for the copper stuff I'm testing.

I see also from that link that Krylon has a weld thru, I think I might be able to get that here locally. Might have to test it too.

Hey RallyRolla, the rear bracing isn't so much about adding strength for coil overs, but improving the horrible chassis twist these cars suffer from. If you check out my Mk2 Structural Analysis guide, you'll see there are some huge compromises in the back end of these cars the way they were engineered. On my black 86 I whipped up a simple bolt in bar using angle aluminum and it made a major difference in feel to the car on the track. I've been meaning to do something on par with what Texas is doing right now for years.

Different solutions for different uses. Your cars are all pretty much dedicated drift/track sluts, full cages and tube frame conversions being the norm. Others here couldn't live with anything more intrusive then the aluminum brace I made, myself and Tex are somewhere in between.
 

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Discussion Starter #246
Upol Copper sticks so much harder than the platikote stuff. Plastikote I could scrape off with my fingernail, upol not as much.

Having a lot of trouble welding on the bottom seam of these plates, that's for sure.

 

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Discussion Starter #247
Got the corner pieces welded in. Next up I gotta bolt the hood on for now, check clearances and then weld in the tabs. I swapped to a fresh tank of gas and oh man what a difference that made. I wish I had done it before the main plate.











 

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Discussion Starter #248
I've been researching paints and primers and sealers, as that's gonna be important with the next step. Seems like Pro Form is a Canadian company eh? It's not readily buyable down here in the States it seems, so I was leaning towards a 3M Urethane option.

However 3M says it's sealers (which would probably extend to most market sealers) doesn't play well with acid etch primers, and it seems like most places like JalopyJournal have made the switch over to epoxy primers, which is all well and good, except Acid Etch is pretty much tailor made for something like this, no paint booth, non-ideal conditions and so forth. So AE is probably the way to go for me.

The question is, should I then be going AE primer, let sit for a while, then a different primer over it and THEN Seam Seal? However it seems like some primers don't play well with AE either (unlike Epoxy which cures, AE can always be remixed/removed with solvents).

Why is painting so complicated?



https://www.amazon.com/3M-Urethane-Sealer-310mL-Cartridge/dp/B00AZA1U9U/ref=sr_1_5?crid=7GXSGQIZOFAW&keywords=3m+urethane+seam+sealer&qid=1572715003&sprefix=3m+urethane+seam+,aps,324&sr=8-5
 

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I don't know, but it is. I have a combination of products I use that occasionally results in my paint wrinkling up and flaking off, and I have never quite nailed down the sequence to avoid the condition (or I forgot it lol).

For the work you are doing right now (engine bay), I would; Acid Etch, then seam seal, move on, let it cure fully, then come back and primer over it with epoxy or whatever if you are after a nice paint job, then paint. The problems I generally run into with incompatibilities and paint wrinkling seems to be with paint in the 1 to 6 week old window. Once its fully cured it doesn't seem to matter.

For under chassis stuff that you will inevitably rocker guard or undercoat, I would acid etch, then paint (I just use spray paint for that stuff), then seam sealer with black sealer, then undercoat it all when its all done.

The epoxy primer is for your exposed surfaces where you intend to spend some time sanding to get a perfectly level surface and really nice paint finish. Acid Etch is too thin for that.
 

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Discussion Starter #250
Wrapped up the bracing for the front, next up is patching a hole in the front sheet metal.





Had to stitch back in the thin sheet where I ground it off the thicker top plate.







 

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Discussion Starter #251
I started a new job working from home so I have less free time. On top of that, Virginia has been generally too cold to paint on a lot of days, which means I can't coat anything in weld thru, preventing me from doing a lot. I was hoping that I could get this thing close to some sort of drivable at some point next year, but we'll see. I might go pick up an engine and start tinkering on that in this cold weather. However, I have spent some time patching the hole in the front sheet. This is after grinding down the first pass, will need to add another pass and grind that down as well.

 

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Discussion Starter #252
It's been quite a while, but I started working on putting that rear quarter back together. My plug welding skills are quite terrible so far, so it's going to be an iterative process.
Additionally with a real job comes the ability to get back to stockpiling parts. Some things I'm looking around at are
Rear Lowering Springs. I will probably go with the raptor racing 300# Dobinsons, but the wait on them might be forever so I'd be interested in any equivalents on the market, I'm sure Hyperco sells something similar but I have no clue what measurements I'm looking for.

Rear Shocks. Something that plays nice with the aforementioned springs. I believe someone on the lemons MK2 was using ST Bilsteins?

Ideally I'd nab some non-LSD diff stubs since I've read they play nicer with Tru Trac diff units.

An engine - eying a lm4 still, there's a cheaper one up in Maryland I meant to go look at last fall, but other things got in the way

Wheels - looking at 17x8 Rota Grid 4x114.3 +35 for the front (not sure about that offset though) and 17x9 Rota Grid 4x114.3 +12 I wish everything didn't have so much positive offset.
 

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I can't remember, is this thing an LType? If not, the 17x9 +12 is possible in the front. Might need to play with a thin spacer and possibly re-contouring your fender liner a little. Camber plates would help.
 

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Discussion Starter #254
I can't remember, is this thing an LType? If not, the 17x9 +12 is possible in the front. Might need to play with a thin spacer and possibly re-contouring your fender liner a little. Camber plates would help.
I think it's P Type - it has the fender flares. I figured 9 inch wheels in the front were overkill and 235's would help with weight/turn in on the front. Honestly I'd prefer to go even wider in the rear than 255 but I think they start to rub after that?

My dad has a Boxster running 235 front 265 rear, obviously completely different platforms, but just thought it would be an example.
 

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9s are tight in the front for sure, and tire choice is paramount. As is the diameter of the tire. I'm a big fan of square wheel and tire setups, but the front is a little limiting on these cars and if big power is in your future, you might want 255 or more in the back. Yes you can fit bigger then 255, I think people have sho horned 285s in there without having to modify much if anything. I always take off that little lip on the inside of the quarter panel on PTypes, its only 1 piece of sheet so it can just be cut off without any rust implications (assuming you clean the cut up nicely, primer and paint it of course).

My point is, +35 is balls. +12 is perfect in the front, the extra half inch of rim on either side to deal with is better problem to have then dealing with spacers and often wheels that look FWD (often the spoke design or amount of lip is dramatically different between an offset difference that big). If those are the wheels you want, get 9s all around and run a 245 or 235 up front, and whatever you feel like in the back. The lower diameter you run in the front, the less chance of rubbing. Obviously, ride height will affect everything too.
 

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Discussion Starter #256
+35 is balls, well noted.
Weather has been super nice recently. I need to find out where I can buy more MIG gas locally during a pandemic.
I trimmed that one tab on either side so that camber can be adjusted on-car. I gotta figure out how to get behind one of them though.


 

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Discussion Starter #258
I little grinding and that should look pretty good! Yeah thats about how I leave those tabs for camber adjustment access.
It's not as easy to tell in person as these pictures, and the wheel well is going to have paint, and then rockerguard so I don't want to bother with too much grinding.

I also got the first inner sheet of the rocker in place today. I just tacked it to the previous one and then did the plug welds along the top. Welding it fully to the old sheet would be a nightmare to clean and cover. I have a lot of surface rust to clean off the rocker before I weld it in, and some of that inner sheet I should be able to acid etch paint and seam seal without welding the rocker ruining it, and it would make it much easier to clean up later. So now I gotta buy acid etch and seam sealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #260
Before I pull the trigger on some, what all work needs to be done to get the Focus AGX 741067 to work in the rear?
Seems like you have to replace the bottom metal sleeve with an appropriately sized one and locate some different sized washers. Is that it? $140 for the focus ones vs $230 from T3 ready to fit.
 
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