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Discussion Starter #21
makes sense, since the whole hatch is framed. They haven't called me about holes yet, but I'm definitely not doing wiper/sprayer/keyhole. I kinda like the super 80's double spoiler though, so I might keep that. Might need a hole for the brake light cable. Do you have pictures of your hatch and install on a thread? New glass might be easiest. I already absolutely need to do the windshield, the person who did it before was.. not good, very sloppy. And I'm missing all my trim around it.
 

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Wow beat me to it, I love the carbon advan stuff for our cars, are you gonna run exposed carbon fiber? Or will you paint over it, cant wait to see this unfold!
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I was going to have them painted to match. I really want the car repainted a light blue, something like grabber blue from Ford or Miami Blue from porsche. Then black trim along the sides, black spoiler, black flares. I haven't really taken any more pictures. I took a little hiatus from working on the car, since I have to drive out to my parents. Visited Iceland which was awesome. I'm out for thanksgiving and have been working on it for the past few days. Took the rear hatch off, and lights and bumper and from bumper and fenders off. Gonna start practicing some welding here soon and might start wire wheeling off the old undercoating and peeking at how it looks. Gotta take the last stuff out of the engine bay (brake booster, fuse box, wiper motor) and drop the front subframe and steering rack.

A quick aside, looking at the front sway bar I have no clue how you remove it separately. It seems pretty boxed in?
 

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Front sway bar is indeed a pain.

Getting the CF parts painted to match is gonna be costly. They're by no means paint ready when you get it. Little imperfections all over.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
My shell is definitely not in top condition as is, so I'm expecting the total from the body shop to be not inexpensive. My roof is all buggered up, as well as various dents and a poorly repaired rear quarter panel that needs to be looked at. I've seen quite a few pictures of what the CF parts look like after catching some UV though and I'd rather future proof them now as opposed to waiting and having to redo the coating.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Well pretty much everything I want off the car is off. Only thing left on is the wiring harness, windshield, doors, and glass. Next month I guess I have to start crawling under it and wire wheeling everything to check tricky spots for rust. Also I need to repair where the p/o cut holes for the front intercooler and see what shape my rear quarter is in, fun. Might stitch weld the shock tower and a couple other spots because why not. I'm missing bunch of ductwork for the climate control, in additional to, well the actual control part. But I'm probably gonna have to rig something up for that anyway. Pretty much every one of my vents is broken, and the dash is wrecked. So I'm probably gonna do something crazy with spray foam, alcantara and a lot of sanding. But that's way down the road.
 

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CF wouldnt be any more than a used hood. you sand the CF down, primer it, block it, base and clear. just like a used hood thats not the same colour.
 

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CF wouldnt be any more than a used hood. you sand the CF down, primer it, block it, base and clear. just like a used hood thats not the same colour.
You would think so, but the CF will take a ton more sanding and filler to get right and even then prolly will never look as good as an OEM piece.
 

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you use high build for the lumpyness, like all the fiberglass pieces that are large. i can agree it will take more time, but not much more time. high build is thicker and meant for smoothing. a metal hood thats in good shape will be easier than the CF, i can agree to that as well. Im just saying its not that much more work. A lot of this depends on the quality of finish of the CF piece as well. You get some really bad fiberglass over fenders that really show how wavy they can be.
 

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Discussion Starter #32

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And probably embedded photos now too.

So looking at those photos it looks like you have a quarter that was punched in badly at one point, and fixed by someone who thought it best to use a combination of an old school slide hammer and cutting out a big patch below the belt line that I assume was too stretched and mangled to just pull out. Also because the sheet metal internal to the rear rocker panel was mangled, they obviously needed to pull that out too. As is typical of repairs by people who don't take proper care to prevent rust from becoming a problem (which appears to be pretty much everyone short of a few shops that actually specialize in restoration work), they didn't seal up the raw bondo that came through the slide hammer holes, they didn't seal or even clean up their welds on the inside, and they left plenty of bare metal on the inside of the panel so now there are rust issues here too, never mind the somewhat minor more recent collision damage. Yup, this is a mess alright and a PITA to fix nicely.

So this is a good candidate for a quarter panel swap, something I rarely suggest on these cars (because its so much work, and finding good donor metal is hard). In this case you have enough things gone wrong here that it would be best to start with a clean slate, an unmolested piece of OEM toyota sheet metal. Removing the old quarter would give you access to clean up and fix all of the inner sheet metal too. The stuff they didn't straighten nor protect adequately during the original repair, and the new crush damage (and what looks like a split in the steel at the bottom of the rocker). A complete quarter panel probably isn't necessary, you might be able to get away with just replacing from about the middle of the wheel well forward.

If you haven't seen it yet, refer to my repairs and re&re process done to the quarter on that 82Ltype I restored. See this post with the index to all chapters here to find them...
http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/showthread.php?60985-82L-Bodywork-amp-Slow-Build&p=711538&viewfull=1#post711538

Now, I'm guessing sourcing a replacement quarter panel may be hard to impossible for you, though geographically you seem to be in corner of the US that might actually have some near rust free donors sitting around. If you don't go the replacement quarter method, I would remove as small a piece of the quarter skin that just encompasses the damaged area (but make long straight, linear cuts, like the minimal area to replace I mentioned above). Once the damaged skin is off, you will be in a similar situation to where I was when I removed the quarter skin from that LType, and I would then make a series of patch panels to replace all of the garbage on your removed quarter metal. Try and make it into a perfect piece off the car, then weld it back on, sealing everything up properly as I do.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Hmm, that's kind of what I was fearing. Virginia generally isn't the best for rust free cars, but it depends heavily on the person taking care of it. I can spend some time looking for a scrapper for the quarter panel. The bottom of the rocker they didn't do a great job pulling out to be honest, and it made removing that rear arm way harder. Looks like I'll be mostly likely cutting a lot of that off then. I knew there was bondo there when I bought the car but I was hoping it would be more minor than it is. C'est la vie. If I can't find a perfect quarter donor, how do you do your sheet metal shaping if you don't mind me asking? I've tried to read all the threads your involved in, the documentation/process and explanation is second to none.

Oh and what seam sealer do you recommend? I found it once, but I can't find it again. You use a kind you can put directly on the metal if I remember correctly.
Thanks
 

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Its usually best to do a coat of acid etch primer first. I use this stuff...



I'm sure there's lots of good sealers on the market, but off the stuff my local supplier has this stuff is the easiest to work with. Some I've tried shrunk too much and had trouble sealing larger gaps and had poor strength.

I think I covered my technique for building the new piece on the lower quarter in the posts I linked above. A lot of old school techniques for shaping and cutting steel. But generally, these cars have pretty simple curves on them so I really havn't needed anything serious like an english wheel or even a panel beater leather sack or such. The most useful and advanced thing I picked up was a flange crimping air tool. But even those types of bends I was doing by hand before, it just saved me time and made a better flange.

Your location is confusing. Wasn't sure if it was Virgina or Texas lol
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Haha yeah, I've confused a few people it seems. Texas is south is an old (admittedly not good) metalcore song that I use every once in a while. And virginia has the worst traffic laws and enforcement in the US probably. Going 20 over is like a class I misdemeanor. I've got some local car tinkerers in my area so I might lean on them for some fabrication tips and help. My main plan is to use your threads as my bible for this chassis.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
In a perfect example of putting the cart before the horse, my carbon fiber hood and hatch have arrived from California! They're amazing, carbon fiber has to be one of the coolest things ever, I could stare at it for hours. Trolling through craigslist there is like one supra for sale for me and it's in nice(ish) shape so I'd feel bad buying it and chopping it up for the quarter panel, although I'm sure I could use more parts off it. It's also $1600 and while I'm sure I could make that back selling things I don't need such as the engine and transmission and whatnot, I hate selling stuff online, it's such a hassle. Looking where it's dented, the piece is just a gradual curve with one bend at the bottom where the skirt part goes so I'm going to try and fab my own replacement before I go buying a whole parts car.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I've begun wirewheeling the driver rear wheelwell to see the shape of the metal underneath. So far, so good, not really a spot of rust I can see, not even on that weird reinforcement panel at the top or along that section outside of the bump stop. However, I'm extremely slow at this with just a wirewheel, and the stock undercoating is really thick on my car, and spreads and gums. I wanted to clear off the whole underside and coat it in por-15 for a new undercoating but am reevaluating. It seems I may want to find a way to sandblast the whole bottom side if I ever want to get done with it.

Should I just stick to problem areas to cut time? Have you guys every used a sandblaster for the undercoating and how did that work?
 

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Sandblasting is a whole game all its own. Not something you just do in your back yard on a Saturday. Unless you are into sand for a back yard and breathing silica particles.
 

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Also sand doesn't work with undercoating, it bounces off unless its really thin. Wire wheel is the way to go (or sometimes a scrapper and a light hammer work nicely), but you need the right kind of wire wheel. If you bought the most common kind with individual wires sticking out, then that's why you're spinning your wheels. You need one of these...



They last forever, are safer and they cut through undercoat and heavy stuff way better. These are heavier though so they put more strain on your grinder.

Wire wheels are not very good for fully removing rust mind you, just the loose stuff.
 
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