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Discussion Starter #41
That's the one I've been working with so far, twisted up and everything, the undercoating on this car is just ridiculously thick and the wheel sprays it over the other metal when it melts. I guess I'll just keep at it then and hopefully get faster at it.
 

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if its that thick try chiseling it off. But I thought the rocker was the rust concern? Why are you removing so much undercoating off the underside? There are a couple weak areas that are worth removing it to check for rust that may have come in from the inside of the car, but generally the rust comes through from the underside, and it starts in a gap in the rocker guard\undercoating or at a metal seam that should have had seam sealer from the factory, or a crack in an original sealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Yeah? My original plan was to redo the factory coating but it's probably not worth it. I know the most of the major spots on the car and could certainly just check and seam seal those.

The top wheel well plate
spare tire drain
rocker panels
rear seatbelt plate
I gotta do my own rear quarter
folded panel outside spring perch
gas tank hole


any other trouble spots? outside of that hack repair job, messed up roof and small amount of rust in the spare tire drain there is pretty much no visible rust anywhere.
 

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What I generally do on the underside is strip the underside down to the bare chassis , though I generally leave the fuel and brake lines on. Then I pressure wash the underside, let it dry then get under there with my creeper, a flash light and my little scrapper and inspect all of the sealer\undercoating looking for cracks in it. As well as checking out all exposed non sealed seams and such. But if I see a crack in the sealer, there is almost always some corrosion going already under it and I scrap it off there and inspect it. The factory undercoating there is generally no need to replace unless it has dried out unreasonably and is chalking and breaking off really easy. The underside doesn't get any UVs so generally is pretty good, unlike all seam sealer around the windows, roof and hatch which is always baked and cracked.

Go thru my threads for the common areas, I think I have documented just about all of them so far. One of these days I need to unify all that info into one place and make it a little more cohesive. And get it off photobucket.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Been a while since I posted with actual pictures. I wirewheeled a lot of the driver side wheel well looking for some of those trouble spots, and it seems pretty good on that side. I also find no evidence on the inside that there is rust which is a good sign. There is some surface rust on the bump stop itself, my wire wheel doesn't really fit up there easily so I need to figure out a way to clean and scuff that so I can seal around the mount and then safely coat that piece in rocker guard.

I've just begun digging into the other side to uncover what I'm really working with and so far it's both better and worse than I thought, I haven't taken any images of it yet though.

Also a few pictures of the interior, I could see how the stock red color looked awesome when new, as the paint behind the dash is basically mint and a really deep red. I also have a few pictures of the damage a previous owner did to various parts of the front end when installing a FMIC for a 1jz swap.
https://imgur.com/a/CG0Wv
also the list of trouble spots I'm going off of is
spare tire well (mine is rusty and needs to be fixed)
rear rocker panels
rocker panels after wheel well ( i tried to take pictures but it's too dirty to tell, needs to be powerwashed)
under gas tank (seems fine)
between spare tire well and rear valence
gas fill hole
under bumper bar valence (fine, needs to be sealed)
rear valence corners
rear seat belt brackets and plates
wheel well reinforcement bracket
spring mount
bump stop
quarter panel to wheel well arch (needs to be sealed, but seems fine)
flare bolt holes
inner wheel well seam
clean out and coat rockers
inside door seams
check around glass areas
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Got all the old bondo and stuff off the quarter panel.
The best way to describe the previous repair job would be to say that the operation was a success, but the patient died. I'll upload pictures of it later, but suffice to say I will almost certainly need a donor car.

is a lot of the bodywork the same between a base celica and a celica supra? Could I expand out my donor car search to all celicas? I also need a roof if I'm gonna get a donor, so it can't be a sunroof.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I'm re-looking through your old one where you pretty much replaced the entire car, you're a beast. What do you use to cut through body panels, just a wheel? I'm asking because however they cut holes in the front for the FMIC piping the sparks melted more holes in the sheet metal and I would very much like to avoid that.
 

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They must have used a plasma cutter for that to happen. I don't like those for most things, they leave too much finishing work. I mostly use thin zip discs on my grinder, but I also have a corded sawzel, an even smaller zip disc setup for my air angle grinder, and I just recently got a small air reciprocating saw with a very small blade for those really intricate cuts or hard to get at areas.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
disc on angle grinder it is. I'm going to try and copy your line near the B pillar when I do cut it off. I wish I could go a little higher on the pillar itself as there is a small dent, but that reinforcement panel does get in the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
As a dedicated lazy person I understand the struggle of no embedded images in a thread. I've gone back and edited old posts to include images and am embedding some here to show about where I'm sitting now with the car








Needs a wash but here is me checking the common wheel well spots and spare tire welll inside
















Wire Wheeling is a struuuugggglleeeee boys







Honestly I'm shocked that the car isn't worse off than it is. Next post will have the horrorshow that is the passenger quarter panel that needs to be cut off as well as the rocker panel.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Quick Question, there's some surface rust on the spring perch towers, but it's so hard to get up there, should I just clean it, hand sand it and paint over it and seam seal along the edges of the perch?

Tentative update, I should be picking up a donor car next Thursday which I am quite excited about.

I don't know what the rules are for selling on this forum but I'm going to have plenty of parts to get rid of both partway through and when I'm finished. Including what I'm sure a lot of you would love to get: a stock hatch with no obvious rust.
 

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You can sell whatever you want here if you aren't a vendor.

for the rust inside the shock towers, sand it off by hand if you can't get at it with a grinder. Then rust convert whats left for insurance, then primer, pain, seam sealer, undercoat.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Been a bit, but I finally am uploading pictures of the destroyed right side. I'm sure some of you (as I was) wasn't expecting it to be pretty, but it's worse than I was hoping.
I'm going to try and remove it, biting off Fiend's line through the B pillar, but then cutting where the wheel well is so I have less distance to weld. I need to double check this line because there is a support plate in there and I'm not sure how it's connected and if I'm in danger of cutting through it.

In other news, I got a surprise. Went down to Tennessee and picked up a junk donor car for $500. It might not be worth even that much, there is so much rust on this thing it's unbelievable, and the trip down there was absolute hell. (At one point going down the empty trailer came unhitched at 70 mph and went bananas. The neighbor I borrowed it from had the ball size wrong.) but the panel I need isn't dented and seems to be only minorly rusty at the bottom of the panel where everyone has rust. Better to have to replace a small amount than a large swath of metal. Also should be able to sell some stuff off it to make back some money hopefully. Got some OG wheels, a motor that might run? an auto tranny, rear diff and so forth. I'm definitely stealing the adjustment bolts to use as camber bolts though.















 

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Ouch! Yup, thats one ugly quarter panel. Definitely a worthy candidate to replace. And like you said, replacing the lower section of the donor car isn't that big of a deal. You no doubt saw my post where I did that with that LType's quarter skin when it was off.

You probably don't need to replace the inner quater skin, just straighten it really well, but I would take out the spot welds where the window goes there and reattach it like factory along the top as much as possible, given how mangled the outer skin is.
 

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Discussion Starter #58 (Edited)
Been a while! I took a quick 2 week vacation to San Francisco to see a good friend of mine as well as Yosemite. I love working on cars as much as the next one of you, but that was definitely worth it even if it delayed my progress, Yosemite is absolutely amazing.

Anyway, as they say the first cut is the deepest. I got the rear quarter panel skin off without mangling the rest of the car TOO much.
There were a couple persistent spot welds along the window that I tried to just pry off before noticing it was a really bad idea. Also there was a section near the wheel arch where they had welded through both layers and I just had to make a cut where the weld was.








The rear section of the rocker is definitely toast. Also a bunch of parts there are all bent up so I'm not sure how easy it would be to graft the donor car rocker panel on. I'm sure it's super rust as well, so I have some options to ponder for that fix. Also I gotta go look at some Fiend thread on how to take that section off.




Last but not least the super amateur repair for that panel. The bar has been set pretty low, so anything I do is pretty much an improvement





Quick edit and addendum; When I'm cutting through these panels with a disc on an angle grinder, some of these sharp corners seem like you'd have to cut through both sections of metal to get all of the bend. Is this just necessary to do and then you weld the base metal back together or is there a better alternative? I actually used a dremel tool with a cutting wheel for the QP cut near the B pillar to avoid extra carnage but it eats through wheels and the dremel wheels are pricey
 

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Yeah, I use smaller zip discs on an air grinder for smaller, delicate cuts like that. With a careful hand you can go thru just the one layer.

Yes I would replace that back section of rocker. Clip it just behind the spot weld you drilled out so the weld seam will be hidden by the quarter skin. I should have similar repairs documented in Deanfun's thread, and I removed the entire rocker on that LType.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Behind that spot weld seems pretty far forward to clip it. It doesn't seem particular damaged that far up, I was thinking taking a line more like this. Then it's all hidden behind the QP. I did browse that thread but had problems finding the exactly picture segment where the rocker panel was cut off, I'll definitely look again.

 
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