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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
To start off, I've been building harness for cars for years now. Be it the Supra or not. So to help community out a bit, I'm going to let this intellectual/trade secret go. I've spent hours and hours on end in testing/development. However without this community I wouldn't have came about it. I'll let you decided if you'd rather make it yourself. Or if there is enough interest I will start to make them again. Until then here's what you've all been asking for.

Notes**
<*> Random House Racing MA61-7MG PnP V.3
<*> 86-88 -- Yellow Plug Ecu (some early 89s) SHOWN
<*> 89-92 -- Gray Plug Ecu SHOWN
<*> Alternator Kit NOT shown
<*> Tacho. Kit NOT shown
<*> Safe Fuel Trigger NOT shown

What you need:
- Basic wiring tools (Strippers, soldering iron, heat shrink, wire)
- 5M ecu or junk 52 pin Nippon denso (10-18-24) ecu
- 5M E1 male connector Engine harness side
- 7M B1 Female connector Dashboard side
- 7M M1 Female connector Dashboard side

86-88 -- Yellow Plug Ecu (some early 89s)

Step 1: Step up of plugs

Open up your Spare 5M Ecu and remove the large connector. Easiest way is to cut the plastic tabs holding it to the PCB board. then wiggle the Plug back and forth until it pops loose. Next de-pin the casing and cut down to just the 24-pin section seen here.



De-pin the rest of the connectors E1, B1, M1. Save the pins as you'll need a few of them. With the pins you've saved remove the old wire by opening up the centres. Everyone has their on method of doing it. I use a set of needle nose and a set of dikes lightly prying. Now set those aside and move on to the next step.

Step 2: Assembling the unit

First determine how long you want your sub-harness to be. then cut all your wires to that length. It's a little easier to have them ready to go. All diagrams are setup as Pins facing you wires away.

All the hard work has been done, now you just need to follow the colour coded charts I have supplied. Simply connect each represented colour from one connector to it's corresponding mate. I can go through and do what I did for the 2JZ-G(T)E PnP guide if people would like more explanation. However I don't feel it's necessary at the moment. Connect the dots!

*Tip on soldering the ECU connector pins. Wrap/roll the wire over the pin, it seems to hold best. Solder (use flux it's real nice), slide shrink wrap over, lightly bend pin out of the way, continue tell finished. I recommend heating the shrink wrap after you've completed the ecu block. For the other pins you've removed simply slide new wire in, crimp, and add a little solder to the system to solidify the hold. Heat shrink isn't needed but recommend, it will make sliding the pins into place a little more difficult (worth it).

THE DOTS!









The Gray block in the last picture is going to be your Tachometer wire lead. This you'll have to connect to a MSD or similar device before running to your tachometer.

What it should look similar to when it's done. :D



Step 3: Relocation

This step is pretty much the easiest you have to relocate 3 wires in order for the car to start now. First is to supply power to the Injectors and Coil, second is to provide a signal to the Main Relay, third is to provide the ecu with battery power when the car is off.

De-Pin the Black/Orange wire from the middle of the B1 connector. You'll want to move it so it'll reach your old power supply for either the Injector resistor or the Ignition Coil. To make this plug and play you de-pin the single pin connector that once attached there and slide the 7M wire into it. Now you can remove the 6-pin connector in the engine bay. DONE.



The last two are the same concept from above. Below will be a connect the dots style diagram. The wire colours will be Black/Orange M-Rel and Black/Yellow BATT. This will remain in the same spot on the 7M ecu plug but will be moved to the MALE side of the B1 connector on the engine harness. DONE.





90-92 -- Gray Plug Ecu

Step 1: Step up of plugs

Open up your Spare 5M Ecu and remove the large connector. Easiest way is to cut the plastic tabs holding it to the PCB board. then wiggle the Plug back and forth until it pops loose. Next de-pin the casing and cut down to just the 24-pin section seen here.



De-pin the rest of the connectors E1, B1, M1. Save the pins as you'll need a few of them. With the pins you've saved remove the old wire by opening up the centres. Everyone has their on method of doing it. I use a set of needle nose and a set of dikes lightly prying. Now set those aside and move on to the next step.

Step 2: Assembling the unit

First determine how long you want your sub-harness to be. then cut all your wires to that length. It's a little easier to have them ready to go. All diagrams are setup as Pins facing you wires away.

All the hard work has been done, now you just need to follow the colour coded charts I have supplied. Simply connect each represented colour from one connector to it's corresponding mate. I can go through and do what I did for the 2JZ-G(T)E PnP guide if people would like more explanation. However I don't feel it's necessary at the moment. Connect the dots!

*Tip on soldering the ECU connector pins. Wrap/roll the wire over the pin, it seems to hold best. Solder (use flux it's real nice), slide shrink wrap over, lightly bend pin out of the way, continue tell finished. I recommend heating the shrink wrap after you've completed the ecu block. For the other pins you've removed simply slide new wire in, crimp, and add a little solder to the system to solidify the hold. Heat shrink isn't needed but recommend, it will make sliding the pins into place a little more difficult (worth it).

THE DOTS!










The Gray block in the last picture is going to be your Tachometer wire lead. This you'll have to connect to a MSD or similar device before running to your tachometer.

What it should look similar to when it's done. :D



Step 3: Relocation

This step is pretty much the easiest you have to relocate 3 wires in order for the car to start now. First is to supply power to the Injectors and Coil, second is to provide a signal to the Main Relay, third is to provide the ecu with battery power when the car is off.

De-Pin the Black/Orange wire from the middle of the B1 connector. You'll want to move it so it'll reach your old power supply for either the Injector resistor or the Ignition Coil. To make this plug and play you de-pin the single pin connector that once attached there and slide the 7M wire into it. Now you can remove the 6-pin connector in the engine bay. DONE.



The last two are the same concept from above. Below will be a connect the dots style diagram. The wire colours will be Black/Orange M-Rel and Black/Yellow BATT. This will remain in the same spot on the 7M ecu plug but will be moved to the MALE side of the B1 connector on the engine harness. DONE.






THE END


You'll have to figure out the way to turn on the fuel pump. There are unsafe ways of doing this which I cannot recommend as I won't be sued. ;) I believe this a pretty concise guide which will get you through all the wiring woes. ALT plug wiring and everything else is easy. I may post those at a later date. If there is something that isn't clear let me know and I'll widen the picture on the subject.

For Inquiries Contact [email protected]

Good luck and thanks!

-Leon Wilson
Random House Racing
 

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thank you kind sir - yours is a little different than mine. I am going to take it and run with it and never look back.
 

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Very good decision Leon! This may ruffle some feathers around here, but I believe you made the right decision. Thanks for giving back to the community! Random House Racing FTW!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you all! means a lot.

4FSED, if there is anything you'd like to contribute that could make this better I would be more then happy to incorporate it. This is the communities now so why not have it influenced by it.
 

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Leon, nice work. If I get time, I'll go over it with more than a cursury look, and compare to what I do. I just so happen to have brought a couple books and my main diagrahm with me, as I have 2 auto cars back home to wire.

@ ihate ..... I'll guess the feathers you thought would be ruffled, are mine. Tell you what ... Leon got no help from me, he's free to do what he wishes, with HIS information. Leon also, has a known working system, and, will be there for trouble shooting if time is available, others, that have posted mis-information, didn't do that.

That said, it's a good thing for the community. I already said I'd not build them again for the community,and I'll stand by those words. The time and effort involved is not worth the pittance most are willing to pay.
 

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Leon, thank you very much! This is a great help. Of course, my cressida is completely different wiring wise, but the concept is the same. The 89-91 PNP would be helpful for me only if to double check that I got the JDM to USDM harness conversion correct!!:laugh: I will refer often to this thread when I get to the actual install part. Again, thanks very much for posting this.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Shawn, thank you and you are right on the money. If you have anything you'd like me to add just PM me and I'll add it. You are after all the guru of wiring as far as I'm concerned.

OakieRA29, no problem. I'll post the 89-91 stuff here soon when I get some motivation. haha and for the cressida stuff I'm sure it wouldn't take long to make a sub section that address the MXxx series chassis. I'll see what I can dig up when I get around to the 89-91 7M-GTE stuff.

-Leon
 

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Again, you rock!!!! I have a couple of PDFs on back wiring the JDM harness to USDM specs, which is half my battle. I am pretty sure that I have it all wired up properly. Now I just have to figure out the B1 plug on the cressida body harness. I can not express my graditude in all the help that you probably didn't even realize you were giving before you released this info. As far as the MX chassis are concerned, the x32 and x73 chassis are probably all you really need to focus on. The X83 came with the 7M and the GTE swap is pretty easy. Most people with the x83 end up going JZ and you have pretty much covered that in other posts.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Again, you rock!!!! I have a couple of PDFs on back wiring the JDM harness to USDM specs, which is half my battle. I am pretty sure that I have it all wired up properly. Now I just have to figure out the B1 plug on the cressida body harness. I can not express my graditude in all the help that you probably didn't even realize you were giving before you released this info. As far as the MX chassis are concerned, the x32 and x73 chassis are probably all you really need to focus on. The X83 came with the 7M and the GTE swap is pretty easy. Most people with the x83 end up going JZ and you have pretty much covered that in other posts.
Thanks I apperciate it. I hope this MX chassis stuff can wait a little bit. Sorry for the the delay. I've just been a little busy with a few family cars.. BMW with a million leaks.. lol
 

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I am in no real hurry just yet. I just got the crank installed in the turbo motor. Still have to get rod bearings, gaskets, etc. Probably will be a month or so before I even get to the wiring parts. I think all I really need is the pinout for the B1 connector in my 87. I am planning on picking up an 87 EWD in the next couple of weeks, so hopefully that will help a ton. When I figure it out, I will post the results in this thread.

I actually found this awile ago, but seems the X73 swap is pretty well covered.
http://members.shaw.ca/boltz/7MGTE-Swap/1987-1988-7M-GTE, 5MGE.htm

And then this rudimentary diagram, but it is easy to follow.
http://members.shaw.ca/boltz/7MGTE-Swap/My-Wiring-scans/ECU-1.jpg
http://members.shaw.ca/boltz/7MGTE-Swap/My-Wiring-scans/ECU-2.jpg

Hopefully, this will help everybody just a bit.
 

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Im sure you have already heard this a million times dude. but your the MAN!!!! Dont wanna come off as an ungrateful ass but 89-7mgte+ - 83' mk2 PnP would make me faint with awesomeness!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
89-92 diagram is up. There are a couple of different gray connectors I've seen over the years. If your is different let me know and I'll post a add in for that style Connector.

-Leon
 

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Leon, 89 is the same as 87/8 except for pin 19/22 in plug B1. 90 they change the plugs, but, the wire colors are the same. 92, Toyota moved one wire, that I don't recall if it's really needed, to B2? iirc. Away from the bulk of my books still ... Yo've all heard of ... the middle of nowhere .... I'm there. Sitting in a bar in Sidney MT for a decent net connection, watching a f'd up Seahawks game. Should have went to work instead :(
 

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Lee, ?I tried to leave you a PM but I dont know if you got it. I need Help in finding the correct 5m E1 plug and more clarification on step three. Thanks in advance.

Jeremy
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Leon, 89 is the same as 87/8 except for pin 19/22 in plug B1. 90 they change the plugs, but, the wire colors are the same. 92, Toyota moved one wire, that I don't recall if it's really needed, to B2? iirc. Away from the bulk of my books still ... Yo've all heard of ... the middle of nowhere .... I'm there. Sitting in a bar in Sidney MT for a decent net connection, watching a f'd up Seahawks game. Should have went to work instead :(
Ahh you are always right Shawn, I do remember now that I look back on my experience with my 91 w/ 89 manual harness. hmm well I'm not going to make a separate guide for that at the moment. To much work if you know what I mean.. ;) Thanks for keeping me straight on this stuff. BTW you should will me those books :D haha j/k

Lee, ?I tried to leave you a PM but I dont know if you got it. I need Help in finding the correct 5m E1 plug and more clarification on step three. Thanks in advance.

Jeremy
Alright well the 5M E1 plug is located on the 5M-GE engine harness. It's yellow and the only other one that doesn't plug into the ecu.

Step 3: Reason behind it is to eliminate the C1 connector. What you are doing is moving 2 wires from the C1 into the B1 connector. You find the 2 points on the ecu plug, de-pin, slide in your new wire, then add to the corresponding spots on the engine side of the B1 connector. The third wire is the power wire for you injectors and coils. It's located on the engine side of the B1 connector. It's Black with and orange stripe and a thick wire. You want to de-pin it from the B1 connector. Then pull it through your harness to attach where your MK.II powers the Coils/injector resistor.

That works?
 

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help again?

Sorry to bother again Lee. But I am taking a road not traveled before in my book and making my own harness and I am asking as many questions as possible because i want to do this once and hopefully never again hahah.

Sooo, my question. Why does your E1 yellow plug look so different than mine in your diagram. Mine looks like

abc^def
ghi,j,klm ^= clip and ,= slit for plug entry.

Yours looks like ab^ cd
ef G hi
jk L mi

I am really frustrated because I keep weirding out ahahaha

Thanks , Jeremy
 
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