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I want a set of RCA's (Roll Center Adjusters)

  • I have money now!

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  • I don't have any money (which means you won't get them)

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Discussion Starter #1
Designed by DonL.

Mfg by me. T6061-T6 Anodized.

See Brakes and suspension for reasons.

$60/set + shipping.

If we reach 25 sets, $50/set + shipping.

New longer bolts is your job...

Payment Status:

Carlos Relova
Christian Ellingson
Justin Marlow
Loc Nguyen
Joe Bartek
Dale Klanchnik
Shaun Camantigue
Robert Bowles
Chad Zemer
Josh Rapier
Nicholas Reiser
Aaron Ingles
Sten Thornburg (3) <- the 15 mark!
Michael Dionne
 

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I could definately use those on my Hillclimb car. Too bad I won't have them in time for Weatherly which is next weekend, June 7th and 8th.
Count me in for a set.

Joe B.
 

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Thanks Jim for taking on this project !

That's a great price for custom work. 30mm longer bolts in metric around a buck each or less. Shouldn't be hard to find. Try to get equiv to at least a grade 5 strength.

Don L.
 

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Sure I'll take a set.
 

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That is great! For that price, count me in.
Anyone know where I can get a set of good quality bolts? I don't want to buy the wrong ones.

Thanks Don and Jim.

Regards,
Carlos
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Find a Fastenal in your local area. They have every bolt imaginable.

You may want to use Grade 8. The metric equivilant designation is 10.9.

Once the first set is installed (probably by me!), I'll show some pics.
 

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I will take a set, Jim. Thanks again.
 

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Has anyone checked to make sure these clear the stock 14" wheels? I would imagine they do, but just making sure.

Christian
 

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Anyone want to give us a quick run-through on the installation steps? Don? Jim? Thanks.

By the way, Jim, you are going to need to get some JK logo stickers made up for placement on the quarter-glass with the CS.com stickers.

Let's see, JK BBK's, JK Short-throw shifter, JK mandrel exhaust, JK RCA's, JK radiators, and the list goes on...
 

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Just make like you're going to remove the front strut housing. Loosen the two bolts that hold the strut housing to the lower ball joint/lower control arm. Take the bolts to a fastener place and get 30mm longer ones. Now slip the spacer between the strut housing and lower ball joint/lower control arm and reassemble with the longer bolts.

Christian
 

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if you haven't lowered the car yet get a set of these and do it all at once as you need to remove the strut for the new springs and or struts anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ha ha. JK Logo stickers.

Mr. Malloy always says JK Motorsports.

Much thanks goes to you guys who make it possible.
I couldn't really front the $ to have an in-stock product.

Well, we're at 10, 5 more to go and this could be for real!

I have to get them anodized in lots, which may be clear
or boring black. If you want to have them anodized yourself,
that's possible, though I suspect the lot charge would be high.
 

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I'm in for at least one set... definitely two if it puts us to the $50 mark.
Thanks, machine man.

Regards,

Jimi B
 

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jdk_ii said:
I have to get them anodized in lots, which may be clear
or boring black. If you want to have them anodized yourself,
that's possible, though I suspect the lot charge would be high.
These won't be visible with aftermarket wheels and the JK BBK, will they? If so, we should anodize them the same color as the Wilwood caliper???
 

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Discussion Starter #19
82Spearco said:
jdk_ii said:
I have to get them anodized in lots, which may be clear
or boring black. If you want to have them anodized yourself,
that's possible, though I suspect the lot charge would be high.
These won't be visible with aftermarket wheels and the JK BBK, will they? If so, we should anodize them the same color as the Wilwood caliper???
They won't be visible, unless you look from underneath the car.
 

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Just an extra install tip, if you have trouble creating the needed 30mm space between the strut housing base and knuckle to install the RCA, try disconnecting the endlinks for swabar, will give more leeway. Better yet, disconnect both front sway bar end links. Also, of the two longer bolts to remount the strut housing, the rearmost bolt may hit the edge of the knuckle flange whereas the stock bolt, being shorter, is more easily inserted. May need to grind a bit of metal off the side of the knuckle flange. Not a big deal, and maybe not effects others. I replaced my susp arms and perhaps their shape is a bit diff. Anyway, a little dremel work is ok.

Don L.
 
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