[Don L.]

Thanks Jim for taking on this project !

That's a great price for custom work. 30mm longer bolts in metric around a buck each or less. Shouldn't be hard to find. Try to get equiv to at least a grade 5 strength.

Don L.

 

[Don L.]

Just an extra install tip, if you have trouble creating the needed 30mm space between the strut housing base and knuckle to install the RCA, try disconnecting the endlinks for swabar, will give more leeway. Better yet, disconnect both front sway bar end links. Also, of the two longer bolts to remount the strut housing, the rearmost bolt may hit the edge of the knuckle flange whereas the stock bolt, being shorter, is more easily inserted. May need to grind a bit of metal off the side of the knuckle flange. Not a big deal, and maybe not effects others. I replaced my susp arms and perhaps their shape is a bit diff. Anyway, a little dremel work is ok.

Don L.

 

[Don L.]

Not having followed the full discussion of the above thread, it seems to me that they are discussing 1) a different car , 2) no mention of amount of susp lowering by shorter springs, 3) not a situation to occur while on the road driving.

Some of the points made seem true however. I wouldn't use the RCAs on a car that isn't lowered at least 1" in front (what's the point?). The sway bar and strut rod that goes from the susp arm to the frame seriously restricts how much the susp arm can move. I doubt the "droop" will be easy to obtain. Also, if the car is up in the air on a lift, wheels dangling, with shortened springs, there will be very little force on the susp arm to go to the "lowest droop" position. Spring might even bounce around loose a bit.

Gives me more incentive to put in a set of RCAs.

Don L.