Toyota Celica Supra Forum banner

1 - 20 of 52 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
411 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got the car running yesterday it ran but sounded like it was missing horribly an would not idle. Last night i did pages 9 and 10 of this,

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK2/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=9

and it quit running and would only turn over. My car is a 1983 and i am not sure if there is any dif. between the 1986 that the tsrm is based off of. I tightened down the spark plugs every one of them to the best of my ability and my battery is charging now. I have replaced the starter, fuel filter, fuel pump, rotor, cap, plugs, wires, battery, and with all that still no luck. I am running out of options.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
411 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Did some more checking and i am getting no spark once again i have replaced my coil what else could it be?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
322 Posts
yo check your timing belt. take the timing cover off and have someone crank the engine while you look to see if the camshaft pulleys are rotating in time. Thats what it was for me. No spark cause the computer is smart.

good luck sir.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,448 Posts
Did some more checking and i am getting no spark once again i have replaced my coil what else could it be?
Did you make sure to plug the connector back together that comes out of the dizzy?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
411 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I know that all the match marks line up at tdc. Is there anyway to check the ecu or ignitor?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,448 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
411 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ok and i also checked and the exhaust pully turns at a dif. rate but it will mark tdc correctly not sure if this is normal or not.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
411 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok so here we go, i have checked the wiring from the ignitor its ok, does that rule out the ignitor? i have also checked the wire from the coil and the coil it self thats good. Does this mean i need a new ecu?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
326 Posts
if we suppose your early poor running is tied to why it will not run at all, and you have no spark, i would suggest you may have some power exiting the ignitor but perhaps not correct voltage; check ground also. i doubt ecu as the culprit
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
411 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ok the ground from the neg. pole of the battery looks rough the ground from the eng to the firewall looks good and that is the only two i know of. What is the % of it being the ignitor?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
411 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
well if a few of you think its my ignitor please let me know and i will go replace it i just dont want to bow 570$ on something that wont fix the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,212 Posts
When you tested for spark did you crank the engine over when someone holds the sparkplug wire (from the coil) by ground. What I do is remove the dist. with all wires hooked up tund in the ignition and tun the dist by hank to test for spark. You will be able to hear the spark.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
411 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Just tried and no spark. Key was on and i was turning the dist and no ticking sound at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,212 Posts
Make sure your relays are not loose again and all the plugs on the ECU are tight.


Also make sure the wires inside the dist. are not broken or grounded. The ones that run to the plug.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,291 Posts
What work did you do to the car (if any) before this issue arose? Make sure your ECU is plugged in, and that all of the grounds are attached to the engine / chassis. There is one to the underside of the intake manifold (a bunch of wires going to one ring), one at the rear of a cam tower, one going to the lower left side of the bell housing, another at the tranny mount, and one going to a stud behind the a/c compressor on the left side of the engine block.
-Aaron
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
411 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok i am also looking at replacing the battery terminal clamps however the wires are crimped (i think that is the term) to the connecters anyone know how to re do it so it looks nice with no shortcuts or half a$$ looking.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
411 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
ok They are all just crimped into the connector and it looks horrible. I can also get ground wires at a local parts place like napa right?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
515 Posts
Try checking the gap of the pick-up coils in your distributor with a feeler gauge. I'm not sure what the spec for them is off the top of my head, but the TSRM has them.
Also look for fretting on the connector pins to the dizzy.
I recommend taking a multimeter to the junkyard and picking up an igniter (in spec of course) instead of dropping 5-6 bills on a new one. I got one for $32 at the local pick-your-part. Thats assuming after EVERY test has been done, and you know for sure its the igniter.
Also, double and tripple check that your distributor pigtail IS NOT plugged into the Injector Resistor box (silver box located on the strut tower), but rather in its correct pigtail to the igniter.
Inspect you wiring harness from the pigtails all the way to the grommet entering the firewall, make sure that it isnt rubbing or getting pinched on anything causing a break in the harness.
If you have a check engine light on with the key literally out of the ignition completely (as in, they key is in your pocket) then without a doubt the is a bad ground.
Make sure that the brass ring ground bolted to the intake manifold is clean and tight.
Are you getting battery voltage to the ingniter with the key on?
Hit us with some multimeter readings like: ohms of the dizzy pick-up coils, ohms the igniter primary and secondary.
ECU voltages, etc.
 
1 - 20 of 52 Posts
Top