[Black Dawg]

In the never ending quest to get my car running properly, I have gotten a few steps closer to my goal. Here is it's present situation:

The car idles like the drum intro from "Hot for Teacher". Sounds like it has a healthy miss, then as it revs up it clears up pretty good, but some of that miss is still there. The entire ignition system is new, except for the ignitor module. I don't think that is the problem anyways. I have timing set at about 12* BTDC, it wont run/start at 10*. The timing belt is right on. Sometimes it will rev and run nice and strong, pull hard, rev fast, like it should, then in the next instant, it will run like crap and not rev over 3k for anything, then it will be back to running good. It will do this consistantly. In my hunt to solve the problem, I started unhooking sensors. Unhooked the TPS sensor, nothing changed! It ran/revved/idled the same as before. Then I tried unhooking the AFM, just for fun, and it revved up to about 2k, and smoothed out, but with any throttle it would die. I assume that's what's supposed to happen when unhooking the AFM, right? Anyways, am I right in thinking that the TPS is bad, since it ran exactly the same when unhooked? If not, what in God's name could it be? I'm running out of things to replace on this thing. Thanks for your help guys.

 

[Supra Bob]

I'm actually surprised you got it to run at all with the TPS unhooked... that also controls the on/off for the fuel pump...

As for the TPS... I don't think that wold be the cause... Does you exhaust smell like your running rich? Perhaps you have a cold start injector that stuck on?

 

[Black Dawg]

It's running super rich. Black smoke rich. And once it warms up, it seems to be more fickle than when cold.

 

[Supra Bob]

Yeah..its possible your cold start is just making you run stupidly rich then... Also check the wiring on your O2 sensor too...

refresh my memory Sam.... Your using 5ME electronics right?

 

[Black Dawg]

5M-E electronics and TPS, 5M-GE AFM.

 

[Supra Bob]

Have you compared the signal output of the 5ME AFm to the signal of the 5M-GE output? Maybe the signal runs differently from one to another... Definately I would say its something in regards to the amount of fuel its getting... What size injectors did the 5ME have? If they were alot smaller than the 182's, that could be a problem as well... Maybe Chris Eng could help out here as he seems to know quite a bit about the 5ME..or maybe one of the Aussie members as they had that motor in their mk II's..

 

[Black Dawg]

I talked to a guy who did this same swap....he said something about an '82 AFM and TPS. My AFM is from an '83 and my TPS is from an '81. MKI guys?

 

[Supra Bob]

Yeah...I think that may be the problem... the 82 is different from the rest of the mk II's from what I remember, tho I only vaguely remember... That may be the culprit...

 

[Black Dawg]

Just got an email from the guy who did the swap...............looks like I need an '82 or earlier AFM And I already threw the stock one away.

Anyone have an '82 AFM they want to sell me?

Oh hey, Bob, on a side note, will that MAF-AFM conversion kit still work with my car?

 

[Supra Bob]

I think so Sam... The AFM is still a 5 to 0 volts from the signal output then it should. The converter is a pretty universal thing in so far as application so long as the signal meets that range.... which to my understanding most Bosch-type Fuel injection AFM's are. If you want in on this buy thats going on now, call me tommorrow (monday) after 6:30PM EST and I'll see if we can't arrainge something...

 

[Black Dawg]

got myself an '82 AFM today, hopefully I can get to my car on Sunday and see if that solves my troubles. Thanks to all who helped, I'll be sure to keep you all informed.

 

[Black Dawg]

PROBLEM SOLVED- an '82 AFM was all it needed. Now it idles at 3k....... :?