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Discussion Starter #1
Whats the best way to repair the rust around the gas tank door. Its not too bad yet, but if I don't deal with it soon, it will be ugly. Bodywork is NOT my forte either, so if this is not exactly a beginner job, I may just end up breaking out the wallet to fix this one...
 

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You could always do the:
- sand it down
- use rust neutralizer
- prime it with a couple coats

technique -- depending on where the problem resides.

Take care of the rot early. G/L.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I would have gone that route, but its a bit farther along than that, and I think its gonna need some filler/fiberglass/whatever work too. Not alot, as its still hard to push against, but enough that it will look pitted if I don't.
 

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Supra Bob said:
I would have gone that route, but its a bit farther along than that, and I think its gonna need some filler/fiberglass/whatever work too. Not alot, as its still hard to push against, but enough that it will look pitted if I don't.
If that's the case you can still go the route I suggested, but instead of priming right away you use some filler (probably not bondo, but the body putty used for finish work) and then sand and prime.

I'd definitely clean out the rust and get some neutralizer on there asap if I were you -- regardless of the foofy paint and stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Its actually first on my to do list this weekend. Malloy saw it last weekend, and he agreed that while it needed to be taken care of, it wasn't super bad yet... Also just found a spot on the hatch that was bubbling last week, right under the U in supra, so thats on the list too.

What brand Rust Neutralizer do you use? I know theres about a dozen or more out there, but I have heard some work better than others, and would rather go with something that someo0ne has personal experience with than just some random can I grab from the shelf cuz it has a better label...
 

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I actually have used Naval Jelly rather the spray neutralizer.

A friend used the spray neutralizer (I don't remember the brand) and got bubbling later... so it's good that you're concerned. One thought would be to call a body shop and ask them which brand they'd recommend. Malloy may in fact have some opinions on this one due to his affinity for a good paint job. :)

Glad you're going to nip it in the bud. Good luck.
 

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Regarding what to use:
Somone i met this year just arrived from Austrailia, he always saw me working on the paint, and gave me a can of (Killrust fishoilene)
From there, says that its what ships use for protection,
it says it will penetrate rust scales and creep into crevices and other inaccessible places.... I have yet to use this, and was told it smells like fish for a few days?? dont know:?
 

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Whenever you are fixing rust and want it to last you must remove all of it. You can sand if off, wire brush it, bead blast it, cut the panel out or whatever, but make sure its all removed. If not it is eventually going to return. After you've done that you'll need to fix the damage. How severe it is will determine how you do this. If all you had was surface rust you can sand if off and finish with straightening the panel. If you have some pin holes, you should clean out the really thin metal, and if its small enough weld up the holes and grind it down. If you have major metal damage over a large area you should really replace a section with good metal. Filling in rust holes with Bondo or Fiberglass is a ghetto fix. After you are all down with this make sure to cover it in a good primer and PAINT it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I spent some time today really looking at it, and underneath, and its a little worse than I thought, so I may wait until after the turbo/motor is done, and just take it to a shop and have them cut it out and replace the area :( ... and in the mean time, just spray it with some rust inhibitor... The hatch is not bad at all, just starting to bubble the paint, so that should be a simple sand down, some finish puddy and primer.
 

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Bubbly hatch

Sorry to rain on ya, but that bubbly paint is possibly being caused from the inside out, so sanding & painting won't necessarily fix. For a permanent fix, you should pop the glass, and remove the inner plastic panel on the hatch and see how bad it is inside. I just finished a large fibreglas repair on my hatch, which looked almost pristine from the outside. Problem is that water pools on the outside of the hatch glass, then seeps into the hatch by the lower window seal. When you put the glass back in, make sure you seal it water tight.
 

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One word for ya...POR15.
I don't know where in the States you can buy it from. Its one of the few products I've spoken to people on the net about and didn't get a bad response to.
Its a permanent solution for removing rust as it involves using their rust converter and cleaner, then applying this paint. It totally seals off the body of the car after two coats and is compatible with any paint system. I'm coating the entire body of my Celica XX in it after I've stripped it back to bare metal.
Here is their website.

Note: When they say on the warning label don't get it on your hands, because "time is the only thing that will remove it" they weren't lying. When its liquid you can wash brushes etc. with thinners. Once dry it is impervious to solvents.[/url]
 

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I had this same problem on two different cars. Did a quick cleaning of rust, pray rust inhibitor and some bono on one - rust came back in about 6 months. The second one I cut all the metal out, replaces it with sheet aluminum and evened it out with fibreglass. No problems with this so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Frank, I may be in contact with ya in a week or two about maybe arranging your help in getting some of that POR15 stuff... looks like exactly the trick I am looking for. Sadly, it doesn;t seem like they ship international tho, which is why, if your willing I may need a bit of help.
 

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Sure thing dude, if you work out the way you want me to send if to ya, I can go down and pick some up when I go get the primer for mine.
 

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POR15 is the way to go. There are three steps included with using the stuff: marine cleaner, metal prep, rust convertor; but the end result will be a water proof seal. The stuff actually bonds to and converts the rust into a ceramic type of material. I used a little on some small spots inside. The cleaner isn't absolutely neccessary if the rust is sanded or wire brushed well.

Goto www.por15.com, there you can read everything there is to know about this stuff. They have a really good deal on a sample/starter kit. It's more than enough for small touch-up areas.

High on fumes.
Scott
 

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Has anyone used this to patch up a pinsized hole or so? I'm wondering if it's as stable as they claim. Has any rust showed up where you used it?
 

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I'll let ya know once the car is painted, I used the epoxy putty to fill the holes from the bump strips along the body. Then I sanded it back and used spray putty.
I've got to do another coat of POR15 over the main parts of the car, then I'm running a few coats of acrylic paint, then two coats of the POR15 "Glisten PC" clear coat.
 
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