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Can anyone throw out some brand names of products I should be looking for to fill in the body with once I start cutting out some rust? I wish this wasn't going to be such a big project for me, but being the third owner of a car with a really horrible second owner, i get the butt end of the stick. I'll be patching by the gas tank, by the hatch, by trim, a bit on the door panels, and even a pocket in the hatchback.After that's all done and said for, it's going straight to primer and paint. (Unless you guys can think of a better way to save a 20 year old car from a scrapper)
 

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If the car is that badly rusted, you'd probably save yourself a lot of effort and money just to take a trip to the SW and pickup a rust free (or darned close to) car and drive it back. MkIIs aren't exactly '57 Chevys which you have to save at any cost neccesary. If nothing else there are zillion rust free body shells at scrap yards you could hual back. Usually with rust there is a lot you don't see and if you don't spend the time to fix it right it'll pop right back. If you are going to fix it buy lots of sheet metal cut out the rusted areas and make new patch panels and weld them in. Finish up by straighening the car as you would for paint.
 

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i know this is an old thread but, Id like to add that heavy rust is fixable... my car was almost rusted in half (well not quite)... and its all new metal now going to paint it in the next month... ill post some pictures at the end of may of the finished car. the whole operation hasn't cost me too much, Ive been able to pay for it and many other vices with a crappy part time Job.

it was easyer for me since I could replace removable parts with good ones I got off of a no so rusty doner car, such as doors, hatch, pass fender and all four flares so there was very little cosmetics to work on after that. If you do choose to do the rust work, use metal for all of the structural pieces that have rusted out (ie. in front of the rear wheels the subframe was begining to disapear on mine) I know its common sence but I have seen some cheaters get what they deserved... cracks, and more ugly cracks. not to mention that they have to live with the fact their car is made out of plastic. I used fiberglass filler to build panels for the holes in the rear next to the gas tank and muffler and before I did I sandblasted the hell out the surface it was to stick to... My dad's bodyman swears by this stuff, he built the quarters for his suburban with it, and it been five years and they are still immaculate... if you want some pictures, of my work in progress id be happy to take some for you.

heh, If your car is really rusty... Id take a look at the rear control arms... mine were cracked halfway through, creating even more ugly negative camber. what a horrible rear suspension system.

if you want any more info, just ask
Caio.
 

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Rob, sounds like you made the effort to do it right. Bravo! Please do post up some pics of the process when you get a chance or send them to Mike so he can put them on the cs.com site. It will be helpful to those who'd endeavor to rescue a mk2. You gave some good advice too because its good to know where to look that a first timer might not think of. My first restoration was a 66 Mustang that had a couple of minor spots on the rear fender that I cut out and patched with fiberglass. Sure enough a spot on the driver door showed up about two years later because I didn't know to look for rust inside the doors.

Phil D.
 
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