Toyota Celica Supra Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Now after lots of screws busted off :mad: as i was removing my front and rear bumper ans fender flares, i was wondering how the hell do i fix this, so aggervating. I was wondering if someone had some advice on this? how to get the rusted pieces of garbage :evil: out the holes so i can put new ones in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,374 Posts
The front bumper brackets (long, slender mounts in front of wheels) can still be bought thru Toyota.

Rusty but reliable
Scott
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
566 Posts
Breaking off a bolt instead of it coming out, sucks, no doubt. Theres two angles of attack, pre and post. Before trying to loosen a rusted fastener there are a couple things that will help if you have a shot at all. First is heat, propane is ok, mapp gas is hotter, oxy/acet is the balls. Heating a fastener breaks the rust bond, and after a minute of cool-down your odds are greatly increased at it spinning out like it is supposed to.
Second, if you can't apply heat due to plastic parts or other reason, is some penatrating oil and impact/vibration to jar it loose. If you don't have any air tools you can use a hammer, block of wood, and the socket. Any other tips are welcome as I'm sure many have there own recipes.
As far as getting a broken fastener out, If you can get at the back of the existing piece with vice grips and turn it as if you were tightening it, you have a shot. Probably not tho, so you are looking at drilling. If you don't want to destroy the hole/threads, try drilling a hole 3/4 the size of the broken piece, right in the center, and use a screw extractor. It's a backwards threaded boring bit that bites into the hole you drilled, but using left handed direction to hopfully pop your piece loose. In my experience these only work at best, 1/2 the time. If your bolt was so frozen in place, a screw extractor usually won't do it and may break off in the hole you drilled. The other choice is to drill the hole out and try to rethread it or end up using a nut-bolt combo if you can. Hope this helps, sorry so long.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,558 Posts
if theres any head left, sears sells some fancy pants nut removers, as well as screw removers.

i bought the nut removers, and i love them, only used them once, on a stripped off torque converter bolt, but they were worth every penny. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,956 Posts
A Dremel drill attachment has helped me many times, especially with that damn bumper.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
THankyou very much, this is helping me out alot because im 16 and just gettin into workin on my car, and i plan on owning supras the rest of my life :lol:. ill use the drill idea, but there is one other thing, you guyd know those studs the stick out on the flares and then to fasten them down you put a nut on the other end.....well some of them busted off :bad-word:
 

·
Founding Member
Joined
·
6,433 Posts
Those studs are basically glued in. I've never seen the stud itself shear off but have seen the fiberglass surrounding the studs split. If the stud sheared, then carefully drill it out, probably starting with a very tiny drill bit because it'll be hard to keep a larger bit from walking and if it goes to the fiberglass it will go right through making an even bigger mess. If the fiberglass has busted then you'll need to pry out the stud carefully saving whatever you can of the fiberglass stud mounting. Get a replacement stud at the hardware store and some epoxy glue and glue the new stud back in place using copius amounts of glue.

Now for the other spots where the lag screws go in and might have broken off, basically do the same for extracting the screw tip. If some of the fiberglass has busted off in the process, then use epoxy to glue back the broken part of the nub that the screw screws into and after it hardens, carefully redrill the core for the new lag screw. It is important that the height of the face of these nubs, either the studs or the lag screws, be correct to hold fast to the fender. You can glue washers in place as spacers or file them down as necessary. You don't want too much tension on your glue jobs, but rather just turn the screws or nuts snug and the sheet metal should contact the face of the nub.

When you put the flares back on, glue the fender pads (black strips) back in place with 3m black weatherstrip adhesive. You can safely wipe off any that oozes out immediately before it sets with a rag dipped in mineral spirits (not laquer thinner). Do not use the clear emblem adhesive because it can mess up the paint.

Good to see a 16 yo learning to work on his own car. Thats rare nowadays. :clap:

Phil D.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,537 Posts
On the topic of preventing breaking the bolts...

As SilverWedge suggested, try heat and vibrations to break the rust bond.
Here's another way to reduce the number of rusty bolts that you shear off. First, spray it with some rust penetrating spray. WD40 is almost useless. ReleasAll is OK, but PB Blaster works the best for me. If the bolt will turn a bit, then gets tougher to turn, stop. Spray with PBBlaster, then tighten it back in again. This helps to work the spray deeper into the threads of the nut. Repeat the process of turning the bolt to remove it a bit, then when it gets tough to turn, spray and tighten it back in. It takes a bit longer, but you won't break half as many bolts this way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
This helps to work the spray deeper into the threads of the nut. Repeat the process of turning the bolt to remove it a bit, then when it gets tough to turn, spray and tighten it back in. It takes a bit longer, but you won't break half as many bolts this way.
Been there, done that! :) Except I used Liquid Wrench, same shit. Heat is the best though. A propane torch is usually good enough but not sure you'd want to use that on the studs secured in our fiberglass flares. Instead I used this small butane torch/soldering iron. It's more precise then a bulky propane torch. I was scared of overheating the fiberglass and even melting the paint so I covered the top part with wet towels. Not sure if they were needed but it allowed me peace of mind as I heated the bolt to red hot temps. Unfortunatly for me, that caused the stud to break it's bond with the fiberglass flare... Oh well, at least it saved me some drilling! :)

What I did then was just buy some bolts & nuts, glued the bolts into the holes where the original stud used to be on the flare with JB Weld. I let that harden over night and it was ready to go the next day! JB Weld is great stuff, used it to reattach the studs on my door handles as well.

- Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,189 Posts
pdupler said:
When you put the flares back on, glue the fender pads (black strips) back in place with 3m black weatherstrip adhesive. You can safely wipe off any that oozes out immediately before it sets with a rag dipped in mineral spirits (not laquer thinner). Do not use the clear emblem adhesive because it can mess up the paint.
Phil D.
Phil,
are you talking about this adhesive available in little tube?
The challenge I see is to have a tiny fill, only on the bottom of the U in the pad.
If not that "ooze" might be delicate to clean, specially on freshly repainted flare.

Also, on another threat you wrote:
pdupler said:
Never broken any studs removing the flares
Phil D.
That's because you never tryed on a Canadian Car !!
I just broken the 2 studs on the same flare. I drilled and tap in it carefully, so it will go back in place just fine.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,314 Posts
The stuff is called rust penetrant and its made by Toyota. Its 4 dollars a can. Spray the bolts and let it sit for a day (24 hours). Almost guaranteed to removed those rusty bolts!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
472 Posts
Kroil and Sili-Kroil from Kano Labs. They are so awesome, they get their own sentence.

I have removed things that were so rusted, no other products or amount of flame and heat helped. Then I tried Kroil. It's also saved some old tools and various other pieces/parts. And what it can do for exhaust manifold and turbo related bolts is amazing.

I should give testimonials. :]
Seriously, all of the Kano products I've tried are awesome.

Regards,

Jimi
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top