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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm building up a 7M-GTE to put into my 85 MKII P-type. I already regularly AutoX, RallyX, and drift my car, not to mention run it in the AKA Rally a 3000+ mile road rally across the US. I decided after only doing 118mph last year on the Bonneville Salt Flats, and after having to run the piss out of my 5M just to keep up with everyone on the Rally that I needed something more, a lot something more.

Since I'm a bomb technician I make good money, so cost while still definitely an issue and wanting to do it efficiently, I wanted to do it right so that I wouldn't have the usual problems from a direct JDM swap engine (buying someone else's unwanted & unknown problems).

88 7M-GTE block
Bored .020 (20 thousandths over)
Honed & Polished
Decked Block
Magnafluxed Block

Stock 88 head
Dye checked for cracks etc
Port & Polish exhaust side
Short-Turn radii removed on intake side
Intake port matched

Stock Exhaust Manifold Port Matched to the Head and polished up (esp where the exhaust flows across the divider and into the turbo).

Used Eagle Forged Rods (these came out of a built motor that had the pistons burnt up due to improper AFR during break-in, only about 250 approx miles if that)
New Probe Forged Pistons .020 Overbore w/ Rings

Stock Crank Magnafluxed
Micropolished journals
Teardropped oil passageways
Undersized Bearings

Front Sump 5M-GE Pan w/ Oil Return already there

Used 5M-GE Oil Pump rebuilt (returned to spec & tight clearances, shimmed for higher pressures)

Intercooler, crossflow Spearco style, 24"x12"x3" w/ 3" inlet/outlet
3" Intercooler piping
3 or 4" Exhaust w/ matching (3 or 4") custom fabbed downpipe
Aeromotive FPR Kit (from Driftmotion)
CT-26 .57 trim (from Driftmotion)
MAFT-Pro
650cc Injectors
Walbro 255lph pump

Fidanza 5M-GE 11lb Flywheel
??? ACT Perhaps, or SPEC Clutch probably Stage 3
Thinking of wedging in a MKIV Aluminum Radiator, need to check on clearances & fitment. Anyone know if the MKIV radiator will physically fit in the MKII?? Nevermind mounting it I'll fab some mounts.

Cost Breakdown (shipping included)
Block & goodies & all that other bolt on crap ($??? don't remember around $300 to $400)
Cams $85.00 (good used)
Probe Forged Pistons $395 + Used Forged Eagle Rods $350 + ARP Head Stud kit $125 = 870 + 35.45 S&H = 905.45
5M-Fidanza Flywheel $290 + 9.99 S&H = 299.99
Walbro 255 pump $98 + .57 Trim CT-26 Turbo $600 + Aeromotive FPR $250 = 948 + 34.81 S&H = 982.81
6x Oil Squirters = around $80 (I think)
Rear Wheel Bearings, Drum Brakes, Axle-Stub Nuts, Seals, Bearing Puller & Grease, & 7M-GTE Hoses = around $500
Stage III Clutch $515 + 26 S&H = 541
7M XTD 12lb Lightweight Flywheel = $100
Intercooler $175
Junkie's Wiring Harness = $450
5M ECU & plugs for Junkie = $55
Upgraded 7M-GTE Oil Pump $325 + ARP Main Studs $139.99 = 464.99 + 17.08 S&H = 482.07
Machine Work... = .... $3514...Ouch
550cc Injectors, Intake Mani, Timing Belt Idler, ARP Flywheel Bolts, and EGR Block Off = 631.06 (driftmotion)
50mm BOV, All Intercooler Hoses, Fuel Dampner Bypass, Form In Place Gasket Sealer, Gates Racing 7M Timing Belt (Kevlar Reinforced), NGK Plugs, NGK Wires = $435.59
Mocal Oil Thermostat w/ AN-10 fittings - $64
6M Crank Scraper - $89.27
LIPP Turbo Outlet Flange ($20.55), Electronic Boost Controller for Maft-Pro ($69.99), Boost Controller Plug-n-Play Harness ($24.99) = $135.36 (SupraSport.com)
Griffin Aluminum Radiator ($195.95), PermaCool Spin-On Remote Oil Filter Adapter ($10.95) = $218.65
AutoGage Water Temp & Oil Press Gauge Kit (Mech. Analog) ($46.95), B&M 6x11" Bar+Plate Oil Cooler ($62.88), PermaCool Dual Filter Mount ($31.95), 1/2" NPT - 1/2" Hose Barb Fittings x5 ($19.75), 1/2" NPT - 1/2" 90* Bend Host Barb ($3.95), -10 AN to -10 Hose Barb x4 ($23.80), Summit Glasspack 3" ($19.95) = 220.98 (Summit)
Full Turbo Gasket Kit = $81.79
Dipstick Tube = $19.09
Plug for Head = $4.87
Plug for Head 3x = $11.46
Plug for Head 3x = $12.72
MKIII U-Jounts 3x = $145.98
Front Main Seal = $13.84
Pilot Bearing for Crank/Xmission = $4.33
Oil Pump Pickup Tube O-Ring = $0.85
Thermostat = $10.69
Cam Position Sensor (CPS) Dust Cover Gasket = $2.08
O-Ring for CPS = $1.72
Head Valley Cover = $37.45
Custom 2-Piece driveshaft LABOR - $380
MKIII Carrier Bearing for Custom 2-Piece Driveshaft - $170
MKIII Driveshaft Bolts, Nuts & Lock Washers 8x - $48
Extra 2.5" U-Bend 2x - $45
VHT Ceramic Enamel Paint 3x Cans - $36
VHT Engine Enamel Paint 2x Cans - $10
Plasti-Kote Primer & Paint 2x - $10
Drill Bit Set - $16
3" Hole-Saw & Pilot Bit - $50
.035" Flux-Core MIG Wire - $20
45* 1/2" NPT Adapters 3x - $50
1/4" Steel Rod for Exhaust Hangers - $7
Various Hardware & Flat Stock for IC & Oil Cooler - $20
R-154 Slave Cylinder - $55

Running Total : $11529.10
Getting Tomorrow:
MSD 8920 Tach Adapter
GM 3bar MAP Sensor
GM AIT Sensor

Left to Get:
Muffler $56 shipped


Now for the pictures. BTW the full gallery of pictures (I'm only posting the good/pertinent ones) can be viewed here: http://s92169157.onlinehome.us/gallery/7mgte


Stock head before stripping down to take to the machine shop.


Crank


Odds & Ends Parts & Pieces (Rear Timing cover, bearings, water pump etc)


Cam removal before taking to the machine shop.


Cams are a little rusty (lol) I'm still waiting to hear back if the cams are usable or not.


This manifold turned out to be worthless since it was full of cracks (no suprise there)


Not the recommended cam removal method but it worked.


Something tells me I'll need new lifter caps (or whatever you call them)


Removing something related to either Fuel or EGR. Gee... I'm wearing a KMFDM shirt... what a suprise.


Used EAGLE Forged Rods as I received them from Aaron from Driftmotion.com Bushings looked great and Aaron is incredibly good with customer service. No really, I called him @ 8.30pm @ night to leave a message on his business machine and he actually answered and we talked for like 45 minutes. Really helpful, highly recommended.


EAGLE logo, anyone else thinking Third Reich or is the Industrial music I listen to getting to me.


5M-GE Pan, front-sump w/ Oil Return already present.


Oil Pump (duh)




All new Oil Squirters for the 7M-GTE block, gotta keep those pistons cool.


Probe Forged Pistons, Rings & ARP Head Studs


A good view of the top valve recesses & dish


Another good view of the recesses & dish


Fidanza 11lb Aluminum Flywheel


The 24x12x3 Intercooler, same one that Aaron's got for sale over at Driftmotion.


The car it's all going into.

371pH
 

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:ttiwwp:

<-- jealous

:badger:
 

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is awesome
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Discussion Starter #4
:ttiwwp:

<-- jealous

:badger:
Reload the page I just added pics. :D Sorry 'bout that wanted to make sure that CS didn't eat my post after I typed all that in. Had it happen a few times.
 

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Just some recommendations, but if you are going crazy with the build you might want to seek out the later 7M block and head. Also the 650 injectors are overkill for a CT turbo. You should take the smallest injector you need for driveability.
 

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is awesome
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Discussion Starter #7
Just some recommendations, but if you are going crazy with the build you might want to seek out the later 7M block and head. Also the 650 injectors are overkill for a CT turbo. You should take the smallest injector you need for driveability.
What are the differences between the earlier and later block & head deisgns? I realize the 650cc Injectors are overkill, however in a year or two I plan on upgrading to a T04 turbo (and accordingly upgrade the fuel system & transmission, I'm sure I'll be tired of swapping W58's by then). And the difference between 550cc RC's & 650cc RC's is only $15 so for me it seems VERY worth it to save having to spend $550 bucks twice at the cost of a little bit of driveability. I'll be having RRev Motorsports head tuning guy doing the tuning and I've already got a good basemap for a 7M-GTE to work off of so I don't foresee the 650's being an issue really.

And you speak of driveabilty sacrifices/issues; what do you really mean? Running rich @ idle?, piss-poor mileage? I can live with both of those.
 

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Reload the page I just added pics. :D Sorry 'bout that wanted to make sure that CS didn't eat my post after I typed all that in. Had it happen a few times.
Now that's better. :D

Looks nice! A total rebuild = $$$ you da man.
 

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Never heard of a 90+ block being any stronger or better designed either.

Rusty, I for one am glad you take our advice with a lot of things. Your build will be bad-ass! Any ways. I don't see 650's giving any problems with a professional tune. He will be running 450rwhp which will give him about 70-75% injector duty cycle at full load. With 550cc injectors it would be around 80-90% duty cycle (assuming 1cc per 1hp and taking account for some valvetrain loss.)
 

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it's not that i haven't heard it, i just dont belive he'll push it THAT hard with that much power.i dont see much more then 600 hp, on the dyno. and 450 track and street drivin.



yes the new blocks have more external webbing, and the web's inside for the mains appear thicker.

the crank is counter balenced, and the head has atleast 7 different casting's, but i remember reading on sm a few years back that some one had counted up to 13 different cast mold's. between all the jdm, n/a, turbo, and usdm n/a turbo cars. & group A.
 

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lol, ahh invasion newbies.:)

The early 7m(87-88) had the 6m crank. The latter 7m(89+) had a much better balanced crank. Smoother and quieter are the two adjectives that come to mind contrasting both early and later 7mgtes. However, the 6m cranked' 7ms have a higher redline and rev-limit.

The 89+ head is also better. The displacement volume of the intake ports are greater since the divider between both valves is negligible. On the 87-88, that divider is quite prominent and sharp. Have heard of Mk3 peeps talking about differences in cam profiles but no hard data has surfaced. And, the jury is out on which type of 7m will can and will hold more power.

Ok, that concludes my post for this month.:badger:

On BTW, just take some Scotch-Brite to the cams (lobes and bearings), then mic 'em. The TSRM lists the specs...
 

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Just some recommendations, but if you are going crazy with the build you might want to seek out the later 7M block and head. Also the 650 injectors are overkill for a CT turbo. You should take the smallest injector you need for driveability.
why? my car idles perfect with 780cc/min injectors? if he puts 650's in there he can upgrade the turbo later and the injectors are already ready to go. just make sure he has the pump to keep them fed and the management to run them.
 

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is awesome
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Discussion Starter #16
Ordered More Stuff

I ordered the 1.4mm Titan Motorsports Headgasket from RRevMotorsports on Friday, also ordered from DriftMotion.com the CT-26 57 trim along with the Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator install kit and the 255lph Walbro pump. Will post pictures when the stuff arrives, the turbo is currently backordered about two to three weeks. *sad*

Have Intercooler piping, various 7M odds & ends (cams that aren't scored, valve covers, etc etc) that I need to round up along with ordering the injectors, MAFT-Pro and a few other gauges and things. If I have the money & time prior to the AKA Rally I'll be upgrading the suspension to the KYB AGX w/ the complete bushing set and getting the Konig Rewinds. I am going to HAVE to replace/rebuild (preferably rebuild) my diff. The clutch packs are getting more worn by the week *lol*.

Rusty
 

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Or we could get you a little dirty Rusty and make your own exhaust piping and intercooler piping =)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Or we could get you a little dirty Rusty and make your own exhaust piping and intercooler piping =)
Not like I haven't done that before ;D

More stuff!!





Some of the original detailing on the NA valve covers starting to flake off.


The other one still looks pretty good, but still going to through the parts washer.


Valve Covers and Cams, we had issues getting the Exhaust cam gear bolt off (obviously). Going to let the machine shop handle it.


New exhaust gasket for getting the exhaust side portmatched.




New (well good) Valve Lash Adjusters/caps/buckets whatever. These ones are ok.


Titan MotorSports 1.4mm Metal Head Gasket


The thing looks 100% metal w/ brass? rivets holding the layers together.


Close up detail of the gasket. Looks like a 0.3mm layer, a 0.8mm layer and another 0.3mm layer. Just guessing, no Micrometer to check.
 
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