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Alright I unplugged the TPS clip from the sensor and was still getting a full signal according to the AFC. So this has to mean my dumbass tapped into the wrong wire, I just dont see how it could be though. It said the black (vtA) wire from teh ecu, on both the intrustions I read (yours being one of them), and this happened to be the only one of 2 wires that were black on that connector. I was using someone elses wiring pinouts so maybe mine are different than his, cause whatever wire it is I tapped into for the TPS constantly has at leist 5 volts so I dont know.

CRF- can you tell me exactly which pin it was if you unplug the ecu. Which connector was it, and which pin was in and exactly what color was it as if you were looking directly at the side that the wires go into? Thanks much,

Austin
 

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Well further testing shows that the TPS is cosntatntly putting out 5 volts. I do not understand why but I just assume its broken. At leist I hope. Im hoping thats its not doing that because of some type of constant ground somewhere or something. Im going to try and replace it and if that doesnt work then Ill now I have to chase some damn wires down. Thanks much...

PS- I wonder what this is doing for my fuel trims...consdiering the EFI runs the injectors and timing according to TPS, and the AFM. Although the AFM is functioning fine I wonder if the TPS is making things screwy. If anyone knows of anythign that this might be please chime in. THanks,


Austin
 

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For the pre-85's, use the 'no tps' sensor setting (**) and make your adjustments on the 'High Throttle' settings only. I'm not getting a TPS signal, and I used this method at the dyno. It allowed me to ditch the FMU and gain 20HP and 30TQ.
 

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My S-AFC II settings:

High throttle:
RPM
1000 - -12
1400 - -9
1800 - -8
2400 - -8
3000 - -11
3600 - -10
4200 - -8
4600 - -7
5000 - -5
5600 - -5
6000 - -4
6200 - -5
 

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cheappower82 said:
For the pre-85's, use the 'no tps' sensor setting (**) and make your adjustments on the 'High Throttle' settings only. I'm not getting a TPS signal, and I used this method at the dyno. It allowed me to ditch the FMU and gain 20HP and 30TQ.
Can you give more details on this for people not too familar with the AFC and high throttle?
 

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It's explained in the manual. After selecting the sensor type (flap), under CAR SELECT designate 6 for number of cylinders and ** for throttle sensor type (no TPS). When this is selected, you are limited to making only HIGH THROTTLE adjustments only.

This method is not as useful as having full adjustment (as the unit was designed), but it'll get you in the ballpark enough to keep you from detonating.
 

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OK, just tapped into this thread, since my '84 is going 7M-GTE very soon, with an S-AFC II. Is that diagram at the top of the thread for the 5M ECU or the 7M, or both? Forgive the question, if the answer is supposedly obvious...thanks!

-- Bob --
 

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CRF_Rider said:
You will want to set your AFM wheel so the your low throttle settings are as close as possible to normal and then you can use the SAFC and RRFPR to get the WOT settings taken care of.
So you still used the RRFPR after tuning? After my first pull we decided to bypass the RRFPR because it was so unpredictable (guess I shouldn't have bought a Vortech 12:1). The 295's and the Walbro 255 was giving me plenty of fuel for the S-AFCii to handle at 7psi. When I turn up the boost in the future, I may need to resort back to the FMU.
 

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Malibyte said:
OK, just tapped into this thread, since my '84 is going 7M-GTE very soon, with an S-AFC II. Is that diagram at the top of the thread for the 5M ECU or the 7M, or both? Forgive the question, if the answer is supposedly obvious...thanks!

-- Bob --
That was for an '85 5M-GE
 

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does anyone have an ecu pin out for an 88 7mgte? i ordered a s-afc 2 and need the diagram so i can wire it up. thanks.
william
 

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The reason the throttle function doesn't work on '84 and earlier models is because the TPS doesn't actually measure throttle angle. All is tells the computer is whether its at idle position , off idle, or WOT. It does this with two switches. One for idle and one for WOT. The TPS for these years is square with a 3-pin connector. The reason for the 5V reading on the SAFC is because you have tapped into the WOT wire. If you turn on the car, with out starting it, and push the pedal to the floor it should go to 0V or very close to that.

All '85 and later EFI systems use a TPS with a potenciometer (I can never remember how to spell that) that varies the voltage with throttle angle. These also have an idle switch with is either on or off. The TPS for these is round with a 4-pin connector.
 

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For those with the old style TPS you can do this.


Grap a Turbo Pressure sensor from an MK3 Supra Turbo. You can install this very easily by powering it with a 5V wire, ground, and the 3rd wire is the reading you need to go to the TPS signal on the AFC.

You will now be able to have a linear measurement instead of TPS signal. It's better than nothing!!
 
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