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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
In my limited spare time, I decided to start working on the spare subframe parts (mainly diff mounting bracket). This piece came in addition to the car. I wanted to prep it to receive the Whiteline sway bar and make installation easier. I don't have a blaster close enough so I used a stripping disc and removed all grime/rust/paint. After a deep cleaning, I hit it with etching primer followed by a satin black finish. Final pic shows the entire assembly together with sway bar and Superpro bushings (purchased 12 years ago, never used...).





The bolts are gold zinc plated from T3 (Flo's Toyota bolt kit). Very necessary replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
This past weekend I was very fortunate to have received the rest of the subframe parts for this car from the original owner. I now have an extra complete subframe set for this car. This set is going to get the same treatment as the diff mounting bracket. I have the front crossmember in my storage area while I work on the rear. These parts will most likely get bead blasted.

 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Ah, sorry if this resto seems all over the place. I'm limited to time and space. Not much time, and very little space. That being said, I also cleaned up the b-pillar panels and the badge. Not in the worst condition but I wanted to touch them up. The badges were pretty faded. What you'll see is after 800 grit sanding and polishing pad. The pillar panel's are not quite finished. I'm still learning how to apply spray paint properly so it doesn't look like a cheapy job. I'm using Duplicolor Acrylic Enamel gloss black on all trim for now.



 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Ok so I'm back to a regular schedule now and have been able to put in some good time on the car. I decided all the small projects, while important, are distracting me from progress on the rust issue. I decided to take the move forward and attempt to tackle the biggest issue, the roof/hatch.

WARNING! I HAVE NEVER RESTORED A VEHICLE TO SUCH A DEGREE. EXPERIANCED BODYMEN, YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.

In the name of progress and learning, I cut through the c-pillars and the rear part of the roof. Not the best way to go about this kind of job. I will now have to back track and reinforce the areas I cut (4 total) and will be using JB Weld on the roof so as to avoid warping with a welder.

In order to fix the issue, I will be cutting out the top layer spot-welds so I can remove the roof skin from the under part. I will have to cut along the body contour line a little bit down to the hatch. Once the top and bottom have been separated, I will work some sheet metal into sleeves that will eventually be welded in place, connecting the replacement piece to the body. And if that doesn't make sense, hopefully the pics will sort that out.

Mocking up the areas to cut



Cutting complete!



Sizing up the replacement



Like a glove



After a phone call with a professional, my stepdad, I began the process of removing the roof skin. You'll notice the copper weld that was used in the factory seam. I will cut along the body line and stop at the copper line, and I will then cut in towards the hatch. The roof skin will be cut into three pieces and will be reinforced later. If anyone is curious, I bought a spotweld removal drill bit. This was totally worth it as I didn't have to drill completely through multiple layers of sheet metal.





More progress tomorrow! Not wise to run an angle grinder at 10 pm next to officer housing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Ok so it's been a while but y'all know how this business goes. I've found some time to get the replacement in and tacked down in several places. Due to miscalculation in my initial cuts, there are pretty large gaps between the steel so I will need to do a good job with reinforcing the welds. We'll see how far we get lol. After tacking it down, I did hatch fit test to make sure everything is still good. Absolutely golden. Slowly but surely it is moving along.





The idea behind using sheet metal screws is to bring the secure the backing to the car really tight. They will be removed later.
 

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Great work!
I've had a MIG since the eighties, but never got past exhaust and other repairs that don't show very much, but after threads like this and hanging around the youtube of Fitzee's fabrications (recommended!) I feel like I should start on the old rusty Crown soon!
 

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Hey Bro, that is an epic resto! Looking forward to seeing it whole again.
 

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My hat is off to you and also AF85 for taking on these serious restoration projects. I have enjoyed reading your posts and checking out the prolific photo posting of progress. Im pretty spoiled with my rust-free garage queen 83 that I won from an eBay auction in San Francisco, then drove back home to Texas. That was in August of 2013 And the original mileage is still just shy of 100k. I‘m just impressed by the dedication that you and many other members of this forum have in saving some of these cars from being crushed or rotting away! Please keep the posts coming.
 
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Aloha, long time no update. How's it going with your epic resto?
 
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