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1985 P-type, manual
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I lucked out in that my car has very little rust overall. However, I Pulled the spare tire from what I now call the "pit of despair". Fair amount of rust, most just surface, but a couple of thicker spots that came off like thin Ritz crackers. I cleaned it up and ground much it away with abrasive discs on my drill . It seems, feels, and sounds solid. No holes.

I have used Rust-Oleum Restorer on metal chairs, and a storm shelter with good results. Anyone have any thoughts on this area? The deeper pits seem to hold on to tiny pockets of rust, and I'm afraid if I go at it with a full on grinder, I'll cut through...

Water Fluid Automotive lighting Liquid Gas
 

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DChein, I would look Por-15 Stop Rust Kit...Google Por-15

and maybe Rust-Oleum’s Rust Reformer Spray for the less effected areas??
 

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If you've got rust in the hatch it's getting in somewhere. If you're lucky the taillight seals(link below has info on where to buy/how to make), but it may be the rear valence seam(info in link below), or even sunroof drain(though not likely). Below is my post on fixing mine. Sounds like you already wire wheeled the area to see what you are working with which is great, now get some rust converter of your choice and go to town. POR15 is alright, but it's hard to work with and doesn't leave a paintable surface and also very expensive for this application. Por15 is great for undercarriage parts that you need a super tough coating on though, so long as it doesn't see UV because that is its main weakness, the other being that it is verrrrry picky about the prep and application.

 

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1985 P-type, manual
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I reposted the pic of after I wire wheeled it. I don’t think it uploaded correctly, I’m sure I have more to go, but it seemed no matter how much I worked, it stopped getting any better after a point.

Thx for the link Gamble! that’s a really good thread with a lot of pics. I really like the undercoat in the spare tire well. I am definately stealing that idea.

I try to search, but some of the gems are hidden in larger threads. I knew I had a little rust, but I put off looking at it really closely for too long, so that one is on me. It has been a garage kept car for the 5 years I have had it.

The battery tray support is toast, and there is some minor surface “dust” rust inside the rear quarters. The frame seems pretty good otherwise. I’m trying to prioritized what should be fixed now, and what I can put off…
 

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I'd pour some water in there and look to see if its dripping anywhere first. Could be little pinholes and if you don't get them closed up, then they will re-rust no matter how you treat it. I've replaced an entire spare tire well before and posted a how-to. Its probably on here somewhere but it was more than fifteen years ago. Your pictures don't look that bad tho. On the one that I did, it was an 84 and the water was getting in because the pinch-weld around the rear glass had rusted and was dripping water onto the spare tire area. That had to be fixed too. The 85 hatch seal is less likely to do that, but still I'd suggest to inspect the hatch thoroughly, take the spoiler off and the interior trim and make sure that's not where the water is getting in. I believe Raptor may still have some reproduction gaskets from the previous run and if so, I'd grab one before they're gone and replace it for good measure.
 

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It does seem a bit antithetical, but getting it wet for a few minutes won't hurt anything as long as you dry it real good afterwards.
 

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1985 P-type, manual
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, there was ONE pinhole. All I can do is dress it up for now. No rust on the outside of the area, but easy access. It’s a fair weather car, with an inside garage parking spot.
 

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I used allot of Evaporust over the summer. If you can soak the area it's amazing. DO NOT get the Gel it's utter crap!
Brown Wood Food Sleeve Metal

Here's an in progress and a various stages of Evaporust on the 1984 parking brake hardware. These soaked for 3 weeks total. You can get good results after 72 hours too. Especially if you have the loose stuff cleaned off first.
Gas Rectangle Font Bumper Auto part

I used 3 gallons total over the summer.
 

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1985 P-type, manual
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, the source of the water in the well seemed to be solved. I washed my car today, and there was a goodly amount of water under the spare tire. The good news is that the hatch seal seems tight. I hosed the hatch down from all angles, but I couldn’t find any indication of water ingress from there. However, one or both tail lights are letting it in. It’ll be awhile before I can pull them off to check It out. Should be ok in the garage for now…
 

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I haven't ever tried anything else, but I have to admit, I am impressed with the flex tape. I used it to seal a cracked skylight panel on a metal buildiing after hail damage. I don't know how long it would have held up in the Texas sun at probably near a couple hundred degrees surface temperature as I eventually replaced it, but it still seemed like new after almost a year. And the adhesive is amazingly tacky. It'd be more useful though if they had more sizes. They only have a short length of four inch wide at Home Depot. It was a pain having to cut it down to a two inch wide strips, but damn is that some amazing adhesive. I wouldn't seal your taillight with it though. You probably wouldn't ever get it off again.
 
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