[supraz]

Is it one of these bolts?
From the diagram, it looks like 90114-06002, which is still available. I think that the matching part is 90202-07005 which is NLA.

I am pulling these parts strictly from this diagram. If not, which part is the one?

Dale

 

[ToyodaSup]

Dale,
From the position in the diagram it looks like 90168-50012 for the bolt and probably 90189-06006 for the nut.

David

 

[supraz]

David,

I think the part number is 90168-60012. The picture is a bit blurred, but 90168-50012 does not exist as a Toyota part number.
Unfortunately, 90168-60012 is a 'Screw, Tapping', so I don't think that is the part. In addition, it is no longer available new.

90189-06006 is described as 'Mudguards, Grommet, Screw is is pictured as:

so again, I don't think that's it.

I can't find any good photos of 90168-60012, but it is still available through Toyota. That's why I'm hoping that's the part.

I was hoping you could find them available new, but I think you are right looking for someone to trade with or purchase from on the forum.

Good luck,

Dale

 

[ToyodaSup]

Dale,
Thank you for your kind help.

Another photo is shown here to better show the location.

David

 

[supraz]

HI David,

I just had a chance to go the garage and take photos of what are on my 1983 and 1984 cars.
The 1983 came without mud flaps (added about 3 months after I bought the car new in 1983) and the 1984 came with mud flaps.

Both of them use what appear to be self-tapping JIS (Philips) screws which would match the part number 90168-60012.
I won't take them out because the metal inserts in the mud flaps can get 'crunchy' with age and rust.

1983

1984

The mud flaps are attached to the body with this self-tapping screw and there is a metal insert molded into the rubber of the mud flap. The metal inserts don't seem to be painted so they very quickly rust away, leaving a loose mud flap. I'll bet that someone tried to get a bolt with a larger head and a washer to hold the remains of the mud flap in place.

I just don't think that the bolt you have is stock. Anyone else with a mud flap equipped car have pics of this?

Dale

 

[AJ]

Guys not sure I can confirm which screw is used from the picture?? I think its the circle with the triangle as shown below??

 

[AJ]

And the link

https://toyota.7zap.com/en/us/celica/252430/ra64l-bcmqsa/3/7601/mbj056/

 

[ToyodaSup]

Dale,

Thanks for your picture with explanation. I think that is the bingo ticket. I have something similar with the grommet in my bolt collection that is probably the OEM bolt. The weird shoulder bolt was as you suggest probably a non OEM replacement.

Thanks to AJ as well, you are always helpful.

David

 

[Flyin' Hawaiian]

IIRC, I replaced one side of mine with a long-ish stainless bolt with a flat washer and a nut. Got it threaded through everything and used my screw gun to tighten it down. Granted, it will be a pain to remove, but I am hoping that I don't have to in the future.

Quick photo of what I have there now, of course you could replace it with a stainless threaded JIS screw too for a little better match to oem:

I sorta recall having to get my fingers behind the plastic inner fender liner to hold the nut in place, but I don't recall it being very hard to do it this way.

 

[ToyodaSup]

Here is what appears to be the original bolt with grommet style washer. I have only this one.


I will probably do like the Flyin' Hawaiian did and just use SS.

 

[RedP85]

I just had to remove one of mine recently, and the above pics is exactly what is on mine too.
The screw goes through the flap, the flare, and the fender before it goes to the nut (iirc).

 

[Flyin' Hawaiian]

I'm going by memory again, but iirc, that "nut" should actually be tacked onto the inside of the fender. If you still have that and its in good condition, you could have someone tack weld the edges back into place, then shoot it with paint, POR15 or rust inhibitor and bolt it all back together properly. The JIS screw should be a standard metric thread, and McMaster Carr should have something similar in stainless or zinc plated in stock. A little black paint over the head and washer and it should be unnoticeable!

Another option, if you're really anal-retentive like I can be, is to tack a nut to a fender washer and then tack that to the back of the fender. Of course, that requires a bunch of extra work that I felt wasn't worth the effort at the time, and throwing a nut on the back and just whacking it lightly with the impact screw gun was more than enough to keep it there for at lest the last 8+ years now!

 

[rhartmaier]

OK David, I took mine apart.
Here are the parts involved:

Order in which they are assembled:

molded pocket in flap where the washer lives:

The screw is stainless. The washer is "entrapped" in the space on the back of the hole in the mud flap. The spacer goes in between the washer and the outside of the fender flare with the flange facing the flare. The nut goes on the inside, on the back of the fender. And no, the nut is not welded on. It must be free so you can adjust the position of the mud flap. After inserting the washer in the mud flap and the screw in the hole, the spacer is screwed on all the way down to the washer. Then the mud flap is attached with the other three self tapping screws that go into the plastic grommets. Lastly the nut is fastened on the end of the screw from the inside. The wheel well liner has to be moved out of the way to get to the end of the screw. Then the two screws on the inside facing the tire have to be removed so the wheel well liner can be refitted, and then they are reinstalled. I had to remove the two rearward bolts and the two above the tire to be able to move the liner far enough out of the way to get to the nut.

Since you do have one of the assemblies to copy, you should be able to use your imagination and figure some substitute for the spacer. Perhaps make one from a toothpaste tube top? Or just use a stack of plastic washers? The SS screw should be available, perhaps even at Lowe's or the Home Depot. And you really don't even have to use a metric screw, as long as it has a similar looking Phillips head. Top Tip: use a SS nut, and also a SS washer if you can find one that large, so it will not be rusted solid if you ever wish to take it apart at a later time.

Good luck, hope this helps,

Bob

 

[supraz]

Bob,

Fabulous job!

I assume that the spacer is there to prevent the shape of the mud flap from distorting as you tighten the screw. Being soft, I would imagine that the rubber of the mud flap will squeeze and flatten down. The rubber holding the washer in place is pretty thin, so if you tightened too much, the rubber would distort enough that the washer would pull out and make it look like the rubber tore loose.

I would imagine that someone knowledgeable with 3D printing could recreate the spacer. I suspect that it has a threaded nut integral to it simply to prevent it falling off as you are trying to sandwich/assemble the mud guard, the fiberglass flare, and the hole in the fender. Once installed, it looks like it is only there to prevent the mud guard from compressing too much. In fact, being made of plastic would stop it from rusting in place. I'm in the process of trying to remove a set of rusted spacers right now.

I have been trying to PB Blast one of them, and I thought I tore the rubber holding the washer in place. It looks like it is actually okay. Now I can apply heat to separate it.
Up here in the Great White North, the spacer and the screw are usually hopelessly fused together.

Thank you for the great pictures. With mud flaps being so hard to find, I didn't want to destroy one trying to get this stuff apart to have a look at it.

Dale

 

[supraz]

Oh, and is that another small diameter rubber washer under the head of the screw, between it and the retained small diameter washer?

I don't want to flame the spacer and screw if that's rubber!

Thanks,

Dale

 

[rhartmaier]

Hey Dale,

It's a rusty lock washer, so go ahead and apply heat to your heart's content!

You definitely need the spacer, and I agree, the integral nut is just to hold things together while you reinstall the mud flap. Shouldn't really be necessary. I also think trying to 3D print a copy is going to way too much trouble. After all, when everything is back together, the only thing that can be seen is the head of the screw, and you have to get down on your hands and knees to even see that. So, improvise a spacer out of what ever you have laying around. In fact I think my idea of using one of those fat toothpaste tube caps is a good one! I might even think about doing it even though I have the original spacer, since as you say, it would prevent it from fusing together with the other hardware. You may have to add a washer to get the right thickness.

Since my spacer and the big washer were rusted together, the washer came out of it's space in the mud flap when I tried to unscrew things. I also needed heat to be able to unscrew the spacer from the screw. I then ran a tap through the nut on the spacer so it would go back together more easily. The spacer and large washer in my photo have been run through my tumbler for a few hours, then soaked in POR 15 Metal Prep for 30 minutes or so, and then coated with POR 15, so I should be good to go, especially since I never let water touch my car.

This thread is a whole lotta space devoted to such a small, relatively insignificant part!