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POTATO
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Please note: some common sense is required in purchasing and taking care of a 20 year old car.

obvious things to change 1st to insure proper running order:
spark plugs ($8-15)
plug wires ($17-70)
distributor cap ($8-15)
rotor ($3-5)
fuel filter ($14-20)
air filter ($6-60)


1. if you're just buying a car that has sat for some time, please be prepared for something to go wrong. most other cars' engines will lock up after sitting for awhile, be greatful that Toyota engines seem to have a resistance to that (for the most part).

2. car won't start. symptom: no noise, or clicking or grinding.
a)check battery connections... if the terminals are corroded, clean them or replace them. make sure the wires aren't chewed to hell and that the body ground is there and secure. also make sure you have a good battery.
refer to this thread here:
http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21051
b)check fuses. all of them.
c)check starter... are all the wires there? are they on good and tight?
You can always directly supply 12volts and see if the starter turns over, but if you're clueless about how to do this, you might not want to try it at the risk of shocking yourself. Take the car to someone who can check it, or remove the starter and take it to AutoZone/AdvanceAuto whatever. (obviously disconnect the battery first)

3. car won't start but turns over fine.
a)engine needs spark to run, you must determine if it's getting any before continuing. take coil wire and hold it to a metal point on the car (with a well insulated tool or you WILL get the shock of your life).
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if you're getting spark out of the coil, but not out of your spark plug wires:
>check dizzy cap for bad terminals
>check rotor
>check plug wires
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No spark condition:
>check all fuses and relays. (especially EFI and IGN)
>check ground wires (engine block, body, intake, etc.)
>make sure AFM is plugged in
>try pulling engine codes
refer to this thread here:
http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20822
>ignition coils are relatively easy to replace, not sure how to test one
>pray it's not your ignitor, those babies are $400+
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No fuel condition:
>same as above
>spray carb/fuel injection cleaner in the intake and see if she tries to start
>try jumpering out the yellow connector by the AFM. With the ignition key on, put your head towards the drivers side firewall, over the intake. After a few seconds you should hear fuel running through the lines. If you hear this, it rules out the fuel pump.
>fuel filter is one of the most common problems to cause a no start, engine sputtering or faltering condition. please change routinely.
>fuel pumps don't offen fail, HOWEVER, most of these cars are on their original pump, so it is common for them to crap out now. YOU MUST REMEMBER to prime the fuel pump before trying to start the car, or you'll get air in the lines and possibly damage the new pump. (priming = turning the key off and on for a few minutes, letting the pump run and turn off before starting)
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engine then should run, unless you're way out of time. please do a little searching on the subject, and/or refer here:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM_MKII/in/IN_001.html


4. car won't start and turns over fast
a) pull upper timing cover, the timing belt either broke or got loose. do not panic, these are non-interference engines (they won't smash valves and pistons)




I'm sure I'm missing a bunch of things, but it's only 9am and I'm half awake, lol.
 

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Tanya, thanks for the heads up on priming the fuel pump. Never even thought about it. I hope this post is going to become a "sticky" or shoved into the FAQ?
 

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I know where you're coming from on this. We've had some increasingly frustrating long-distance troubleshooting lately. I think you might should get even more basic. I swear there are people around here that don't know what 'engine turns over' means.
 

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POTATO
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Discussion Starter #4
4SFED said:
I know where you're coming from on this. We've had some increasingly frustrating long-distance troubleshooting lately. I think you might should get even more basic. I swear there are people around here that don't know what 'engine turns over' means.

LOL should I put: engine won't start but makes a "whirr, whirr, whirr, whirr, whirr" noise


:hahano:
 

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Actually, why don't you link the actual sounds. Get people to contribute them as they have problems. Then we'll know for sure whether the whir whir sounds like a mixmaster in the kitchen on chop and grind or a cement mixer with a load of gravel. Having gone through the pain of two timing belts improperly installed (they didn't replace the tensioner) I know what you're describing...
 

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Dammit Tanya..why do you always post things that are awesome?...I think though with all your previous experience with your other rides you definately are a engine SME(subject matter expert).If I had an engine problem..id hope that you had a shop 'cause it would be headed your way!
 

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Just quit running

Thanks for the great post. Looks like I have a good list to follow for trouble shooting. I was shifting from 1st to 2nd...Car just lost power. Turns over fine. Looks like maybe no spark at plugs? Haven't really taken a good look yet.
I had just had the passive alarm system and remote start disabled. Thought at first that may have had somethingn to do with it. Someone put remote start on a stick shift. Not a good idea.
Thanks again for really great information.

Bill
Sherwood OR
 

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bills said:
.... Someone put remote start on a stick shift. Not a good idea.
...
Bill
Sherwood OR
As long as you always put it in neutral and apply the parking break its OK...

<--- who has a remote start on manual car

will
 

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supra_toy said:
As long as you always put it in neutral and apply the parking break its OK...

<--- who has a remote start on manual car

will
Agreed...as a long time manual shift owner, I park them in gear. This one hit the garage wall. Didn't know about the remote start. No damage.

Bill
 

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hello Tanya,

I've been trying to figure out what can be wrong with my car. The cars starts and runs but only for a moment. I've changed the fuel pump, filter, temp sensor, changed air flow meter, and throttle postion sensor. It is still giving me the problem of not wanting to keep running. I followed the test in the manual and still nothing. The thing is giving me 23 32 codes indicating the air temp and air flow meter. Is there anything that Im missing, is there a relay that can be the problem? HELP Please
 

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POTATO
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Discussion Starter #13
hello Tanya,

I've been trying to figure out what can be wrong with my car. The cars starts and runs but only for a moment. I've changed the fuel pump, filter, temp sensor, changed air flow meter, and throttle postion sensor. It is still giving me the problem of not wanting to keep running. I followed the test in the manual and still nothing. The thing is giving me 23 32 codes indicating the air temp and air flow meter. Is there anything that Im missing, is there a relay that can be the problem? HELP Please

I'm not very familiar with either air temp or afm issues, but you can try the online TSRM if you haven't already...
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK2/default.aspx

could possibly be a bad EFI relay too, does it click when the key is turned to ON?
 

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Well I went back to fool with the car some more. I so happened to spray cab cleaner in and the car started, then stopped. I had my brother spray some more and kept sprying, it ran like it did before all of this. Its getting fuel, the fuel pump is new and working, new filter. It could be a relay, could it be the circut opening relay or the EFI main relays.They're in the engine compartment fuse box right?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well I went back to fool with the car some more. I so happened to spray cab cleaner in and the car started, then stopped. I had my brother spray some more and kept sprying, it ran like it did before all of this. Its getting fuel, the fuel pump is new and working, new filter. It could be a relay, could it be the circut opening relay or the EFI main relays.They're in the engine compartment fuse box right?
Yes the relays are in the black box under the hood.


It can't be getting fuel if it's starting with carb cleaner. Somehow it's not getting to the injectors. Check to hear those relays click. Also, there's a yellow check connector by the AFM, use a paperclip or something to jumper it out, turn the key to ON and put your head near the intake manifold in the back, you should hear fuel going through the return line. If no noise, I would listen under the gas tank for humming, sound of the pump actually running.
 

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I jumped the pump already, it's working. Im looking at the relays, circut open relay and the two efi relays. Is there a way to jump a relay once it is unplugged?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I jumped the pump already, it's working. Im looking at the relays, circut open relay and the two efi relays. Is there a way to jump a relay once it is unplugged?
yep, when I was having EFI relay issues of my own a few years back we did this




and it worked like a charm.
 

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It can't be getting fuel if it's starting with carb cleaner.
UNLESS, the problem causing it to die instantly is too much air due to an unmetered intake air leak (after the afm), in which case the extra air now has extra fuel and the engine can continue to run as long as this extra fuel/carb cleaner is applied to use the extra air, otherwise it dies from too much air relative to the amount of fuel supplied.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
UNLESS, the problem causing it to die instantly is too much air due to an unmetered intake air leak (after the afm), in which case the extra air now has extra fuel and the engine can continue to run as long as this extra fuel/carb cleaner is applied to use the extra air, otherwise it dies from too much air relative to the amount of fuel supplied.


ah, that would have to be a pretty large vaccuum leak I would think to cause that... should be able to hear the hissing when it's running off the carb cleaner I would imagine
 
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