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the car starts but it just dosen't keep running, it's like the cold start injector is spitting but the other six aren't. The codes are comming up with 23 air temp, 32 flow meter, they're one unit. I'll change the relays and see what happends...

p.s.Thanks for the pictures, huge help....
 

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What year is your car and what year AFM did you put in it?

Good point, Tanya! The 82 AFM is not only mechanically different than the rest, but it's also different electronically and therefore not compatible with later model engine harness wiring.

If you are indeed using a 82 AFM in your 82 MKII, try disconnecting the electrical connector on the AFM and look closely at the connector on the wire harness to see if any of the electrical contacts in the connector have been pushed back into the rubber boot and not making connection with the connector socket on the AFM.
 

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I made sure to use 85, 86 AFM. I wasn't sure what other years would work....

I jumped the EFI relay and still nothing. The codes are 23,32 air temp and air flow meter. The air temp is inside of the AFM unit.
If there was a clog in the fuel line these codes wouldn't come up, right? The weird thing is when this started I didn't mess with the engine at all, just the interior. I took everything out to recondition.
 

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You know the water temp sensor was bad and tested bad, no ohms reading, code 22,once fixed code went away. The fuse popped for the ING, code 14, fixed it and code went away. I tested the AFM, ohms reading are within specs, still getting codes 23,32, could the AFM still be bad?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Could be quite possible.

Have you reset the ECU at all?


Try pulling the battery for about 10 minutes, then recheck codes
 

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Well I found what the problem was. When I was putting on some bubble fender flares on the car I hit the E2 wire going from the ECU to the AFM. The wiring harness was tucked up in the ffront fender and when I drilled a hole for the rivets, I hit it. The Damb drill bit was the exact size of the wire, sliced it clean.
"If I didn't have bad luck, I wouldn't have any luck at all."

Thanks for all the help, thank you.
 

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I seem to have the same problem.. the car is starting but dying after 2 seconds.
It is getting fuel and were pretty sure its the afm .. followed the link to "http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...2/default.aspx" and found the wiring diagrams we can use to find otu if I have a faulty afm. ne question though, I have an 83 MA61, is there a huge difference in wiring etween teh 83 & the 86 the manual talks about?
 

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I have a starting problem too. Periodically, the solinoid would kick, but the starter would fail to turn. Then, for some reason...perhapse an hour later it would start right up. I knocked on the starter a few times to get it to work (99% effective on my chevy's just before time to change the starter) and it dosent work. Push starting this little car is getting tiresome so I bought a new starter for it. I was singing praises about this wonderful little 5mge...untill I started to try to remove the starter. What nit wit little Japanese twit decided to use a nut and bolt configuration on this thing?! If it were the typical 2 bolt only,(no nut) I'd have been done with this hours ago. I have large hands, so my temper is flaring trying to remove the top bolt and nut. After this endevor is over, Ill prolly drop the 327 in my firebird in my supra just to make it easier to work on...not to mention Im sure 400hp in that little car would be insanely fun. = )
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Haha, get a lady with little hands to help you. I have no problems removing the top starter bolt :D
 

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It's not too bad if you put some cushioning on top of the engine and lay across it on your chest with your feet hanging off the front to get the top bolt. I use a T-handle twist ratchet with a short extension under the intake and a wrench on the transmission side. I'm sure it's pretty funny looking, but I can make short work of it like this.
 

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lower the trans bolts a little to get a good angle with a long extention.

will
 

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Running issue

I had a nice old 230k stock motor in my 83, and one day it just started running very ragged, I thought I had a rod come loose, due to the terrible sounds it was making, so i bought a nicely rebuilt motor(thanks jason), and put it in. A very smooth process, perhaps too smooth. I got the motor started, and it is running just like the old motor. It starts, and barely runs, if I have the ignition at full advance. It won't maintain rpm, it dances up and down, no matter where in the rev range, and at idle it just shakes something terrible. I am going to try and seal the upper intake better(aparently the circle port gasket is not available) and see if it get's better. If anyone has some sort of light to shed on this please do. Oh yeah I blanked the egr, but the old engine ran like this with the egr attached.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
vacuum leaks, easy to check. spray some carb/TB cleaner around suspected leak areas (intake manifold, throttle body, vacuum hoses, plastic intake pipe)

also, check the codes (I believe you will need a voltmeter for the 83)
 

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The volt meter I do have, however I have lost the diagarm for where to place the leads, and if I remember the last time I put it the wrong place, something bad happened. The gasket is OEM(emphasis on original), and like I said I can't fine the circle port gasket. Perhaps someone knows where to get one, or am I going to have to put the d port intake on?


PS Attica eh, If the car is running right soon, I should be taking it up to syracuse
 

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Ok...now this old mechanic is scratching his head. I replaced the starter and it works great...sep for the fact Im still having the same problem. What gives? It starts up perfectly fine...when it wants to. Every once in a while, the starter will not engage...the solinoid kicks but the starter wont kick on. If nobody has any logical suggestions, Im just going to graft into the starter wire and install a push button. Im afraid it may be in the switch. I can jostle the key...bang on the steering wheel and it just dosent help. Tapping on the starter has the same outcome...nothing. Then...perhapse an hour...maybe a day or 2, it works perfectly fine. ARRRRRGH!
 

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Ok problem solved, now remember folks, when setting your timing, don't do it at 12:00 after a frustratingly long day of work, and then more work. It produces you setting the distributor one tooth out.
 
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