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POTATO
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Discussion Starter #41
Ok...now this old mechanic is scratching his head. I replaced the starter and it works great...sep for the fact Im still having the same problem. What gives? It starts up perfectly fine...when it wants to. Every once in a while, the starter will not engage...the solinoid kicks but the starter wont kick on.
Check and recheck the ground connections and wires, if there's any play or any damage along those wires, the starter will act all razy like that and only fire up when it has the perfect connection
 

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My 83 did the same thing about a year back, however replacing the starter did fix things. I did have to do some wire touchups on the connector going into the starter, and the conection in the fuse block. I'm not certain if that will help, but I have to agree with Tanya, definetly sounds like a loose/chafing wire issue. The only other thing i can suggest is getting the car in a dark place, and look for shorts while someone else taps the key.
 

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I wiggled all the wires and connections down at the starter. Nothing. I pulled the main positive cable and it seemed pretty stiff...I wiggled it anyway. It fired up. Im guessing corrosion in the cable there is prolly the culprit. Time to break out the water/baking soda. Thanks for the input, everyone.
 

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Sounds like Auto Mechanics 101, but is good advice for someone that hasnt delt with it. I understand about the Fuel Pump diag due to I am a Chevy Mechanic and they have fuel pump problems all the time. Be carefull even though the car starts on starting fluid doesnt always mean the fuel pump is bad always check voltage drop at the pump to make sure you are getting full power and good ground. Ground issues are also a major cause of fuel pumps going bad.
 

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Im going thru a no start prob with a 86'SDR I just purchased(cheap!). Its been sitting at a shop 4over a year. I was told it had this prob when it arrived at the shop(owner went AWOL). Its in my garage now and it cranks but no start. Starts when I spray starting fluid in the intake tube. Ive poured a drop of gas in the tb and it also starts and shuts off. Theres spark, rotor cap all fine. I swapped the fuel tank, every relay,fuse even the maf from my running 85SDR. Ive been avoiding changing the fuel filter cause I think its a pain, but I cracked open thefuel line at the injector rail and fuel sprayed out a bit, if the filter were clogged there shouldnt be fuel spraying right? Anyway Im not the best at troubleshooting just gone thru a lot of supras, thats my resume. P.S. took out the cold start inj. no gas smell and dry as hell. Any suggestions?
 

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Fresh in my mind...

At the engine ground point for the battery there are two conductors, one large and the other small. The small one is a solid black wire that goes to the battery area the connects to a black and white striped wire - if this connection is not there then the injectors will not fire.

Check the Thread labeled "Help!!!!!" - on the forth page there are some pictures by dsn_ayers, the second picture down shows the connection.

Regards,
 

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That sounds good, Im going to check that along with the rest of the harness. This happened on my 85' when I did the 6M swap and the culprit was faulty ground wiring. I hope this is it, I'll try it in the morn'n.
 

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Frustration! I checked every ground wire connection on the eng, firewall tranny(auto) still no start. There was a ground wire broken off thats located almost next to the battery on the side wall. I replaced it with a new ground wire straight to the neg. terminal and when I tried to start it actually sputtered a bit, I thought I was on the right path. 85blue, I saw that wire you refered to but it seems connected fine. Spent most of the afternoon on this, time for a "Break".
 

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Damn...!

Sorry, thought that the same malady that was affecting you had happened to me. I hope you find it, - spark, air, compression - hey, the only thing missing is fuel. There has to be something stopping the injectors from delivering. I had been told that you can feel the injectors pulse even if they are not spraying fuel, that might lead you further, it was also suggested that you buy one of those Bosch Injector connectors and use it to shoot 12v straight to the injector to see if it clicks, those injector connectors(hey, that's almost as fun to say as grommet) cost me about $6.36 each, PM me if you need the site, it took about 8 days to get them...

Regards and good luck,
 

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i have a problem were i can only get the car to stay running if i stick my hand in the afm and hold it open to a certain spot but if i try to open the throttle it dies or if i let the afm go it dies.
 

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engine idles too low

hi i met some of you guys in centralia last week! Sweet website im new a member. my 84 celicasupra 5m-ge idles too low and eventually floods itself at an idle, it also misses sometimes but recently the plugs, wires distributor & cap were replaced. still problems? any suggestions?

mike on the mic
 

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i have a problem were i can only get the car to stay running if i stick my hand in the afm and hold it open to a certain spot but if i try to open the throttle it dies or if i let the afm go it dies.
well i figured out my problem. i had a walbro for and it whined like all of them. but when i was trying to start i didn't hear it whine so i connected the pump directly to the battery and vroom it started, so i guess i was getting voltage drop.
 

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So what do I do if I can't start my car but I get a clicking noise?

My car starts fine when cold and most of the time after it is just shut off (hot). The issue I have is when the car has sat for a bit (minutes to hours) and is not fully cooled off. I try to start the car and I can hear a relay clicking and the starter clicking loudly. To get the car to start I open the hood and let it cool off for a bit, this usually takes a couple of minutes. Or if my wife is with me I push start it.

I have upped the wire size for the wire going from the battery to the starter
The starter is a Toyota Rebuilt unit from Toyota (Mark)
I have two small batteries rather than a full sized one but the wire gauge is sufficient not to cause any issues (4 gauge and 4" in length).

Any ideas as to what could be wrong?

Darrow
 

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I have two small batteries rather than a full sized one but the wire gauge is sufficient not to cause any issues (4 gauge and 4" in length).
Wire gauge is good - have you checked the output of the small batteries under load when warm?

A clicking starter points to not enough amperage to the solenoid to engage the plunger.

An 'anmeter' works well here to measure the draw when it does start and when it doesn't (clamps on the wire) but maybe you can arrange to be in the parking lot of an auto parts store to check the battery when it doesn't start.

Ken
 

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TANYA, I am NEW to this site ................. I own a 1984 Supra and having lots of trouble with NO SPARK to the PLUGS. I have a Toyota Service Manual and been following the procedures to check the relays, engine check wires, etc. Found out that the part of the main harness that connects up to the Distributor is not carrying any voltage ! I also have a CEL light that stays illuminated and the TACH needle does not move !!! Any ideas out there from anyone on what is happening here ? Car quit running last Fall, just died on the spot. I have replaced the Fuel Pump/Filter (what a job that was), replaced the cap and rotor, wires, etc. Getting very uneasy about this ........................ Seems that these cars have lots of electrical problems/issues ??? Thanks to all in advance !!! I am located in MEMPHIS,TENNESSEE area ............................. Mark 901-413-8692 or 901-382-8693
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Try testing the coil & ignitor?? beyond relays and fuses, the most common reason why these cars lose spark...
 
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