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These cars do not have that many electrical issues except when folks modify things. Comparable to most other cars. However, the original coil w/ igniter (mounted right behind the fuse box) is a known failure item on the 83/4, lasting about 100k miles. If the Toyota part number is 19070-43071 then you have the replacement (I don't know what the "bad" one is, and there is yet another p/n that is good).

On the CEL, you need to find what code it is throwing. With an 83/4, you will need an analogue voltmeter (one with a needle, not a digital gage) and a metal (noncoated) paper clip as a jumper.

It looks like the price on a coil w/ igniter at the dealer has gone way DOWN, assuming I'm looking at the correct part (Ignition coil, supra, w/o turbo 84-92). MSRP is $104, and you should be able to get them for $75-80. However, CSK PartsAmerica has them for $510!

As Tanya just said, check for spark out of the ignitor. Also check the EFI fuse and all your connections.
 

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1984 Supra electrical problems, part 2

OK, just did some more troubleshooting, the FUEL PUMP HARNESS is also not getting any electrical power but the FUEL GAUGE HARNESS has power .................... Additionally, I checked under the hood and all the blade fuses are powered as well as the FUSIBLE LINKS CONNECTIONS, it now seems that I getting .6 volts to the Distributor Harness connector.
I have some of those nasty looking wire pulling tools, I have prodded and pulled on the harness assembly where it is runs near the FUEL LINE RAIL but nothing has changed.
Same as before in my previous post, there is still no electrical power out of the Coil, but the Coil has checked out fine with voltmeter.
If anyone can shed some light on this problem for me, I would be most grateful ..................... been working on this car for the past two weeks now.
Thanks,
Mark in Memphis
901-413-8692
 

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pant pant pant ok i reached the end of the thread and did not find what i was looking for, hopefully i can find help... after the cars running for 30 min or so i shut it off and it wont start back up. im getting spark and fuel mind you.. and its bugging me to no end that i cant figure it out... fast crank no ign puffs or noting just like theres eather no fuel or spark but you can smell the fuel and i shocked myself testing the spark already... looking into it further if i unplug the cold start injector time switch( temp sensor) crank it over it runs for three seconds and dies.. i half to do that twice and jump it for it to start back up unless im waiting for hours on end... any ideas? ..why does it seem i get the complicated problems?
 

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Basic motto for mechanics, fuel, air, electricity, water (coolant). And now a days, computer. Vapor lock? Running too rich (fuel) and flooding (too much fuel being injected). Wrong timing, 10 degrees TDC (Top Dead Center) with the shorting plug shorted, 800 rpm without airconditioning, 1200 rpm with airconditioning. Air meter (the one behind the air canister) screwed up? Bad igniter, the thing bolted on the bottom of the ignition coil (I had one of these go kaput before)?

So easiest first, shorting plug, shorted and check the codes on dash, check engine light blinks a code. Get a Repair Manual with the codes listed, it blinks its own Morse Code, dashes and dots, long and short blinks.

Reset the computer by either disconnecting the + battery terminal and wait about 60 seconds. Or pull the stop fuse in the engine compartment (that what the official 1985 Toyota Celica Supra Repair Shop Manual says).

Harder, get the air meter checked with ohm volt multimeter. Or do it yourself, I own the Haynes, Chiltons, and Official Toyota Repair Shop Manual and only the Official Toyota Repair Shop Manual has the acceptable readings, measurements for all the electrical parts in the Toyota Celica Supra.

One of the relays, must be checked under electrical load. Can read fine on ohm volt multimeter, but put under load, fails.

Too bad the Toyota Celica Supra did not have the simple electronics like my old 1969 to 1980 Toyotas.

Do you have any rust under the driver's and passenger's side kick panels? If so, check all the connectors for corrosion. Mine did and I had interrmitant electrical failures. Took apart the Molex Connectors, cleaned the Molex connectors, now everything works. There are also the molex connectors between the battery and below the fuse box, battery acid got into mine and again intermittent shorts, that is why I am going to put a sheet of polyurethane plastic between the battery and those connectors.

So in short, get the Official Toyota Celica Supra Repair Shop Manual and any test equipment you need if you are going to keep your car. You'll need them.

Oh, yes, Tanya is probably the subject matter expert.
 

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OK, just did some more troubleshooting, the FUEL PUMP HARNESS is also not getting any electrical power but the FUEL GAUGE HARNESS has power .................... Additionally, I checked under the hood and all the blade fuses are powered as well as the FUSIBLE LINKS CONNECTIONS, it now seems that I getting .6 volts to the Distributor Harness connector.
I have some of those nasty looking wire pulling tools, I have prodded and pulled on the harness assembly where it is runs near the FUEL LINE RAIL but nothing has changed.
Same as before in my previous post, there is still no electrical power out of the Coil, but the Coil has checked out fine with voltmeter.
If anyone can shed some light on this problem for me, I would be most grateful ..................... been working on this car for the past two weeks now.
Thanks,
Mark in Memphis
901-413-8692
Ok did not read this one. Check the igniter, the thing bolted on under the coil. Do you have the Official Toyota Repair Shop Manual? You need this to find out the acceptable values on an ohm volt multimeter.

Oh, forgot about the wire that runs between the inner and outer fender, manufactured too short, I think it is green with a red stripe. I had to make it longer because it snaps due to being manufactured too short and body flex. Wire runs inside between the inner and outer fender, right next to some very sharp factory welds and on top of the 1/2 inch ridge of the inner fender. You can feel it if you remove the driver's side wheel well inner plastic cover, be careful not to shread your fingers on the sharp factory welds. Don't know why Toyota cheaped out and saved about an inch of wire. I fixed mine by removing the driver's side fender, silver soldered in an extra inch of wire, electrical taped the splice (there is a special old school technique to prevent the electrical tape from unwinding forever), and glued the wire to the inner fender well ridge away from the sharp welds with automotive silicone sealant adhesive. This *&*&% wire caused the same (^&*& that is happening to you. Was pointed out to me by a 15 year (at the time) Veteran Toyota Mechanic, I would drive down the road and thunk, dead Toyota Celica Supra, embarassing. Wait a while and starts back up.*&%*&!!!!!!
 

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I am at my whits end with my baby...82 L-type

Hello all
So here is the issue that I am facing with mine and my hanyes (which I despise) isn't helping much.

Symptoms: Car will not stay running when trying to start it cold. Only way to keep the car running is by holding the gas to the floor and starting it. When this is done the car will stumble like hell for a few minutes and be barely running. after doing this the car will idle for a minute and then die unless you tap the gas. when I tap the gas the engine will bog for a second and then resume idling for a few. so until the car warms up I have to continue this cycle of tap the gas and wait. Once the car is running for a few minutes it is fine and performs normally.

What I have checked:
-checked the timing and it is where it is supposed to be
-checked the fuel injectors and they all are within spec
-checked the ISC valve and it did what the book says it should do
-checked the sensor on the ISC valve and it is within spec
-checked the cold start injector timing sensor (the one on the thermostat housing) and it is within spec
-checked the air intake hoses and they are all sealed and good
-fuel pump is new along with the fuel filters

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you
 

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Have you spec'd the afm? Also how are the plugs, wires, and cap and rotor? I have starting issues with my 82 L also, but mine has random starting issues. I.e. It doesnt want to start randomly.

Also, have you checked ignitor and coil?

Good luck!
 

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All of the ignition system is correct and intacted.

I am assuming AFM means air flow meter and I did try using a different one and that did not fix the issue.
 

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surging while driving

new to the site, I'm in need of help, my 82 supra will start surging while I drive it. i'm used american cars but this has me stumped. any ideas what i can do to resolve this problem ? please help, I dont want to be stranded:ugh: thanx in advance TK
 

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Idk what to tell you because all these other guys probably know more than i do but i had the same problem, i took my car to my family mechanic, and he said the starter was the problem, he rebuilt it and now it starts everytime.
 

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i have a 1981 supra 2.8 straight six engine will only run when fuelpump is disconnected after filling the fuelline car will run for 30 seconds untill all the fuel is sucked out of the line if the fuel pump is connected while it runs for that 30 seconds engine shuts down what do u think
 

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Filling fuel line after disconnecting fuel pump and getting it to run is impossible. the fuel pump has to build pressure to fuel injectors in order to run. now if you sprayed fuel or starting fluid into throttlebody, and it starts then you have a fuel delivery problem.
 

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hi celica supra forum, I just brought a 1982 celica supra for a week now. And now, it won't start. The battery works but when I try to start, it just make the ticking sound but the motor doesnt do anything! PLEASE HELP ASAP! New to this car, Thanks celica supra!
 

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hey everyone long time no chat eh? well anyways, my 84 p-type symptoms are- starts fine, turns over, but sounds like crap, rough idle, no power and sounds like shes gunna die out.. there is no rod knocking noise wither... i feel like crap cause i go to UTI and i cant get her goin.
 

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my79 supra is idling like crap....i just bought a new battery and alternator...when i get to a red light it always almost wants to shut off...i notice the dash lights dim like crazy but then i put put it in neutral while im sitting at a red light...with only my headlights on it feels like it wants to shut off...help me!
 

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might suggest using a spare spark plug to connect to the coil wire to check for spark rather than using a tool to ground and arc to something. Might save some people a that shock you were talking about! good info though!
 

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i bought this 85 supra thats been sitting for ten years....i replaced the fuel, plugs, cap, rotor, fuel filter basically all tune up parts. shes getting enough fuel pressure to the injectors and has good spark but i have to pump the pedal to get her started and she just revs till 2500rpm's n dies....anyone have any idea what it could be? she runs just fine w/ starting fluid, i'm thinking injector issues maybe? any help would be highly appreciated.
 

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ok Im not getting ant power to the fuel pump. so car wont start. it have good fire. and fuel pump is working with a jump wire. but dont pumping fuel to the injectors. what should I do now. feed up.
 
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