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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Started 1.08.2010
---Started stripping and made a shocking discovery: The engine is fine. Looks great and with not mutations or anything. (Will post pictures) Melted rubber and tubing is stubborn, but slowly coming off. Coming along fine. Looks like I'm going to rebuild... (A lot of money is about to disappear)





(December 16, 2009)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/.../After the Fire/Fire-Engine3.jpg?t=1263076161



(January 9, 2010)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab259/Snafu_Bohica/StartingStrip.jpg?t=1263076069



(January 11, 2010)
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/...r/After the Fire/Inside-Head.jpg?t=1263411310
 

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put a 7m in it, i guess you already spent a lot of money right?
 

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Scool

***NOT A REPOST***
Need opinions... (Memories83; I am focusing on school: )
Glad to see it buddy, glad to see it...

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On Plan B: The only caution on this plan is be careful what you sell off of the burned car because you never know what you may need off of it until you get your next car AND get it operational. I was always surprised how many small, hard to find, items I pulled off of my donor car before I finally got mine running. It is a lot cheaper to have these parts in your possession when you need them rather than have to source and pay for shipping later.

Good luck with it man. You will learn a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
***Car fell Through***




I have found another 82 that just needs a piston rod. Luckily, I have a set... This one is $300 and ran great until the motor started knocking. SOOO... I"m hoping its just the piston knocking.



Glad to see it buddy, glad to see it...

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On Plan B: The only caution on this plan is be careful what you sell off of the burned car because you never know what you may need off of it until you get your next car AND get it operational. I was always surprised how many small, hard to find, items I pulled off of my donor car before I finally got mine running. It is a lot cheaper to have these parts in your possession when you need them rather than have to source and pay for shipping later.

Good luck with it man. You will learn a lot.
 

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or go pull a 5m out of a 80's cressida for cheap and get the supra back on the road.
 

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$300 is extremely overpriced for a 5M that has a rod knock......just FYI.
 

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Taylor,

If you choose to replace the engine and burned pieces on your car, I might have a possible solution for you. I will be pulling my engine out of my car here pretty soon (possibly in the next few weeks) and officially starting my swap to 2JZGTE. This means that I will not need a lot of surrounding parts that you need such as:

Engine
Engine Harness
All intake piping, AFM, and Air box
All power steering lines
Alternator
Power Steering pump
AC lines on driver's side
Ignitor/Coil Assembly
Radiator
AC Condenser
Starter
Cooling Fan
ECU

Now what it would require is switching your car over to the 85 engine pieces, but I don't think that really entails much, and you'd get the later ECU/and additional power that came in 85 as well.

My engine runs sweet, and I'm sure you could find many PacNW members here that could vouch for it being a completely perfect running machine (St. Helens Run anyone? LOL).

Thought I'd toss that out there for you. I feel that $300 for an engine with a rod knock is tossing money away. You could get a lot of the pieces you need out of my perfectly running car for a little more than double that. You can even come down here and I'll take you for a spin in it if you'd like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I would like to probably use your parts... I think the one I was looking at fell though. I started stripping Prometheus today and in 2 hours I got most of the passenger side of the engine bay off. I took off the heads and the engine is fine. The aluminum didn't even melt. I would like to see yours, I just don't know if A) I can get out there and B) I can afford for a little while. I make minimum wage which is $7.80 after taxes, so paychecks are about $350 every two weeks. $700 a month, but then I also am paying $150 of it all to my vet for removing the rock from my dog. I would like to rebuild mine, I don't know if I can, I would love to try... I just don't know how much I really need as far as components. I have a good idea...
Grille
Hood
Lip
Headlights
Headlight motors
Intake
All tubes
All Belts
Belt covers
Fuse Panel
Pulleys?

The list goes on. I almost think I should buy a new one, but I have a TON of time to spend. Let's keep in touch.

Taylor,

If you choose to replace the engine and burned pieces on your car, I might have a possible solution for you. I will be pulling my engine out of my car here pretty soon (possibly in the next few weeks) and officially starting my swap to 2JZGTE. This means that I will not need a lot of surrounding parts that you need such as:

Engine
Engine Harness
All intake piping, AFM, and Air box
All power steering lines
Alternator
Power Steering pump
AC lines on driver's side
Ignitor/Coil Assembly
Radiator
AC Condenser
Starter
Cooling Fan
ECU

Now what it would require is switching your car over to the 85 engine pieces, but I don't think that really entails much, and you'd get the later ECU/and additional power that came in 85 as well.

My engine runs sweet, and I'm sure you could find many PacNW members here that could vouch for it being a completely perfect running machine (St. Helens Run anyone? LOL).

Thought I'd toss that out there for you. I feel that $300 for an engine with a rod knock is tossing money away. You could get a lot of the pieces you need out of my perfectly running car for a little more than double that. You can even come down here and I'll take you for a spin in it if you'd like.
 

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Your distributor is probably shot too, as well as the power brake booster if it got too hot. Why? Both of these parts have a rubber diaphragm inside that can melt with too much heat. The distributor has a vacuum advance unit on it (an 82 only thing) and it will be very difficult to source a good one (just ask Sowsley). Switching over to all 85 powertrain/electronics would be the best stock upgrade you could do. I think you may even have the high-geared rear end in your car, so more power would be beneficial. Best of luck with your rebuild!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Distributor is like pudding - that froze. and Brakes are good (I tested them pulling the poor thing home from where it caught fire. It is being stripped as we speak, kinda. It is too dark to work now. So I retired until 7 AM sharp...

I'll keep adding to the post.



Your distributor is probably shot too, as well as the power brake booster if it got too hot. Why? Both of these parts have a rubber diaphragm inside that can melt with too much heat. The distributor has a vacuum advance unit on it (an 82 only thing) and it will be very difficult to source a good one (just ask Sowsley). Switching over to all 85 powertrain/electronics would be the best stock upgrade you could do. I think you may even have the high-geared rear end in your car, so more power would be beneficial. Best of luck with your rebuild!
 

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If you decide to replace the engine, Well. you won't find anyone saying things bad about Mark (ra24man) on this forum (disclaimer, everyone in the PNW knows him, as I do).

If you need a replacement 82 wiring harness, I know where one probably is (but seriously, 83+ is much better)
 

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i have a 82 supra that i will be taking the 5mge engine and wire harness ecu etc out of i'm swapping to a 7mge has the 82 dizzy still all the lines and belts i think ,
it had rod knock and i be willin to let them go cheap to help you out i don't need or want them i think i have some spare stuff that can go with it too:thumbsup: just msg me
 

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i'm workin on my 85 5m right now......i have the 5m where it doesnt have a knock sensor...so basically i have the 82-84 5mge motor in my supra right now....runs great, smooth....little leak from rear main seal and that gasket piece between the head and the cam tower on the exhaust side.....and thats about it....and i've only put about 6-7000 miles on it ever since i put it in april of 08.....i bought the 5m as a longblock and i think i still have most of the parts in a box....i just had to switch out the intake mani for it with my original....but if u think u can wait till june or until im done with my original 5m i can sell u mine....
 

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oh yea....the place i bought it from, somewhere in cali, said it should have under 50k on it....its just leaking from the rear main seal because of how i rushed to get it in...
 

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Distributor is like pudding - that froze. and Brakes are good (I tested them pulling the poor thing home from where it caught fire. It is being stripped as we speak, kinda. It is too dark to work now. So I retired until 7 AM sharp...

I'll keep adding to the post.
Road Ripper was referring to the rubber diaphragm that aids in "assist" inside of the brake booster, not the brake system as a whole. When the car is off, and vacuum has been equalized to atmospheric pressure in the brake booster (usually 2-5 brake applications), it offers no assist. So you wouldn't be able to test whether the brake booster works or not without either the engine running, or manually pulling the booster into a vacuum (22 inHg).
I recommend you pull the brake booster into 22 inHg of vacuum and monitor for a leak. This will check the condition of the diaphragm itself, and the one-way check valve.

If you don't check it, one of four things can happen:
1) You luck out and it's fine
2) It melted and you have a huge vacuum leak (no brake assist and a constant "woosh" sound)
3) No start condition
4) Lean condition due to vacuum leak (all around crappy and sluggish running engine)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
*UPDATE*

MOTOR IS GOOD!







____________________________________________________________
While stripping, I came upon the amazing dicovery that the motor is still intact, with no melting, etc. Even the thin aluminum along the side of the engine is good. May need gaskets. I appreciate everyones help. I was planning on rebuilding, but while stripping, a thought came to mind that hit me like a train... Wiring. My older brother was trying to rebuild a 67 Pickup that someone had messed the wiring up really bad. That was 15 years older than my Supra, and a pain in the ass. I also need to fix headlight motors, wiper motors, and everything else. I think I'm going to buy a rust-bucket that runs and use my body, or something like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
A buddy of mine found an '85 P-type. Was free to him and if he gets tired of it, he will sell it to me for cheap. Needs alternator.

Prometheus is stripped and ready for parting. I need another Supra to use parts for. So I will stop posting and wasting everybody's time until I get there.
 
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