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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1984 Celica GT 155k

This car and or motor appears to have never had a heavy wrench put to it.

Engine runs for about 30 seconds or so and then just stalls out like it's, choking for fuel. Try to re-start it and sometimes it will run again for about 20 or so seconds then die again. I have to then wait several hours before it will start again and the cycle continues. I've changed the fuel filter and the fuel is definitely getting to the cold start injector (at least it sprays out pretty darn well when U loosen the banjo fitting just a tad--fuel pump jumped--). All the fuses are good. When I squeeze the fuel pressure return hose I don't hear any sounds coming from the regulator, , , that's odd. Seems to be getting plenty of fuel though. It obviously gets spark. At least I think it does. I have to check the sustainability of that spark I guess. I'm getting ready to check some specks with a multi gauge. Anyone have any additional suggestion(s) besides what's listed in my Hayens manual. Also, I understand that there could be something in the distributor that can 'turn off' for whatever reason and your car will stall. Anyone?

TY
 

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ok bare with me, i'm on my psp at work. So it dies like its running out of gas? well just to be sure its a fuel prob take some brake clean or sfarting fluid and spray it into the intake, be sure to keep the air flow meter hooked up or engine will stall.. if it continues to run while spraying fluid it is a fuel prob, if it still stalls then its something else... keep posting and i'll help the best i can.. as long as my shop doesn't get busy
 

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Some suggestions, verify that:
Timing is good.
The pickup coil in the distributor, is good. The pickup coil can fail when warmed, and not allow a car to re-start until they cool back down.
 

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I put my vote in for dying fuel pump.
 

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that like buddies wife.. its always the fuel pump. the cars making a clunking noise while turnig... its the fuel pump!!! but i do have to say that the pick up does sound kinda suspicious
 

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that like buddies wife.. its always the fuel pump. the cars making a clunking noise while turnig... its the fuel pump!!! but i do have to say that the pick up does sound kinda suspicious
I also say it could be the fuel pump since what he is describing are a few signs of a bad fuel pump. About a good 60% (or more) of fuel issues with the Celica and Supra can be traced straight to a bad fuel pump.
 

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i understand that, i'm just saying that its good to verify that it is the pump and not something else because it does sound like the pick up coil is bad and heating up also. didn't he say that fuel sprayed when he popped the line? here again it may also be that the psi is good but volume isn't. a shorted afm acts the same way too or even just a break in the intake hose.... but the engine would want to try and start again.. ok scratch the intake hose theory
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
TY all for your input. Right neighborly of ya. Can't tell ya how much I enjoy free advice, :thumbsup:.

Went and put a multimeter on this ignition. The plug-in specs for the signal generator and the secondary resistance on the coil don't mesh. Not even close. Looks like both parts are bad. I'm thinking, is it common or even plausible for both to fail at the same time? Don't know to much bout all this. Anyone got an answer?



Thanx much in advance.
 

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Bet its your injector driver.
Starts when cold as its running on the cold start. Dies when it shuts off the cold start valve after 30secs.

The hour wait before starting is because the engine cooled off and the time switch opens again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Bet its your injector driver.
Starts when cold as its running on the cold start. Dies when it shuts off the cold start valve after 30secs.

The hour wait before starting is because the engine cooled off and the time switch opens again.
Injector driver?

Can U elaborate?


And to think, I thought after I found a few faulty electrical readings my probs were solved. Go figure. . .
 

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He's referring to one of the two sensors, that are on the water pump housing, just next to the distributor.
They are both visible and accessible from the front of the car.

One of the sensors is a Temperature sensor for the ECU, the other reads the coolant temperature to determine when to fire the cold start injector under the manifold.

The Haynes manual should show how to test each one, by taking resistance values and comparing them to the graph that plots Temperature vs. Resistance for the sensor.

If it is this, then that would mean your car is running only on the cold start injector. ....didn't know there was enough fuel to do so, I just thought it squirted a shot to fire up a cold engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
He's referring to one of the two sensors, that are on the water pump housing, just next to the distributor.
They are both visible and accessible from the front of the car.

One of the sensors is a Temperature sensor for the ECU, the other reads the coolant temperature to determine when to fire the cold start injector under the manifold.

The Haynes manual should show how to test each one, by taking resistance values and comparing them to the graph that plots Temperature vs. Resistance for the sensor.

If it is this, then that would mean your car is running only on the cold start injector. ....didn't know there was enough fuel to do so, I just thought it squirted a shot to fire up a cold engine.
The Haynes manual talks about the "Engine Light" turning on if there's a sensor failure. When this happens it says U have to count the blinks. Mine only illuminates when I turn the ignition to the 'On' position. When the car starts, the light goes out. Are U saying that I can't trust the cars own diagnostic system?
 

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I can tell you I am having a prob on cold starts and it is the thermo sensor switch. With the prob I am having it will not start when its cold but car runs like a champ when it is warm. I just ordered the sensor and it is $154 so be sure b4 you go putting out all types of money on things that you def need them. The other sensor in the thermostat housing is cheap it is only about $20 dollars and is easy to get the thermo sensor is almost impossible and is very pricy
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I can tell you I am having a prob on cold starts and it is the thermo sensor switch. With the prob I am having it will not start when its cold but car runs like a champ when it is warm. I just ordered the sensor and it is $154 so be sure b4 you go putting out all types of money on things that you def need them. The other sensor in the thermostat housing is cheap it is only about $20 dollars and is easy to get the thermo sensor is almost impossible and is very pricy
Well, how do U get it warmed up if it won't start when it's cold?
 

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Well I was doing a lot of cranking and basically warming it up by doing that but now that I am waiting for the part I drilled a small hole in the intake and put the straw that comes with starting fluid in it and give it a spray before starting when the motor is cold. It seems to work really well so anyone having this prob that doesn't have the money to fix it this is a quick way to do it. Also no adverse affects with a vacum leak bc of it bc I know that what some of you are thinking
 
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