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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, I now have time to address a problem that developed about 2 months ago.
I had driven into town to the parts store(running parts for may dirt track car). When I cam out and got in my 84 (5mge) it "sputtered" when i started it, and i saw steam in the exhaust, I drove it 0.5miles to my mechanics shop and shut it down. When we tried to restart it it was locked due to a cylinder full of water. :cry: :evil: Being racing season and having to work on my dirt track car has put off this problem til now.
I trailered it home and set it in the shop. Yesterday I began assessment of the problem. It would crank and run, but blew steam(ran it about 20 seconds) checked oil, at full and only slightly milky. Pulled sparkplugs, 1-3 are clean and look great, 4-6 are wet. Motor spun with plugs out blows water out of 4,5 and 6. I don't claim to have much knowledge of these motors( small block chevy is my main interest)
So here is the question of the day. What has let go, can a blown head gasket give you 3 wet cylinders? or is it more likely the head.
This motor was put in 3 years ago by the cars original owner, and had documented 44,000 on it at that time. It has never been hot to either of our knowledge.
My inclination is to pull it out and drop a 6mge in, but if it is possibly
fixable I might go that route. (yes i realize it needs to come out anyway to get the crap out of the block, and oil passages)
What do ya'll think??
 

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Head gasket has crapped out. Water jackets on the exhaust side of the HG have let go, thus water in the cylinders.

Yes, it is possible for 3 cylinders to crap out on a BHG (depending on how bad of condition the HG was). I had water in my #5 & #6 cylinders when I had my BHG earlier this summer.

Steam is probably the exhaust heating up coolant that went into/is trapped in the catalytic converter.

1st inclination is to see if the 5M can still be fixed. Pull the head & check the head & block for warpage & see if it's still within spec. If the head is out of spec, try & get another head. If the block is beyond spec, then go the 6M route.

Others?????
 

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you either have a BHG or cracked head

take that 5M out and drop that 6M in and she will be ready to go :p
 

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If you hydrolocked the motor there is a good chance the motor is FUBAR. A $495 6M is probably the cheapest fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
did not hydralic motor, cylinder filled when shut off, then was locked, removed water, will crank and run.
 

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Ya you got problems... Pull the head and take a look.

The 5M is easy to work on if you got a engine lift. Just leave the entire intake & wiring harness on the head and disconect the harness at the ecu. A few bolts and hoses and the whole unit will pop right out of the engine bay.

Things I screwed up while changing my head:

-Forgot to dissconect fuel line from fuel filter to fuel rail, $340.00 new
(no I didn't get a new one)

-When (if) you pull the front cover off the head (for the water jacket i think) it needs to be attached to the block when it is being machined. just look & you'll get it.

-The head bolts are NOT tourque-to-yeild so they CAN be reused if they are in good condition.

-Don't forget to put that little tiny wire into the impossible to reach starter relay durring the re-install.

-Those little heating/cooling lines that go to the throttle body need to be hooked ip to the block first, then feed them up through the intake runners and put them on the top after the head is back on. (trust me)

-The 5M is a non-interfearance engine so no matter how badly you screw up the cam timming you won't hurt the engine.

-I've see somewhere on the forumn what the max machining values are for the head and block so you can probably search and find 'em.

-If you need a new head, somebody here can probably help you out.

-There is an online TSRM for referance if you need it for timming stuff ect.

I'm sure I must have screwed up more than that but I'm sure you can find your own creative ways to add to the list. By the way, I'm trying to build a dirt track 5M/7M-GTE for the spring to race in a 4.0 liter class.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the input , I am planning to start pulling the motor down on saturday, I will let ya'll know what I find(and probably have more questions)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
:D so far i have found that it takes a while to dis-assemble the top of the 5mge and not screw something up................... about 1-2 more hours to get head off. But I know it will all go back with no problem... i hope
 

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Having fun yet? It's more fun to put back together. Are you pulling the entire head and intake in one piece or stripping it individually? Everybody has thier own way depending on the tools they have. Keep us informed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I am pulling the head "whole" but have removed manifolds.
will update as I finish my learning experience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
:D :D Got the head off this afternoon, headgasket had let go between #6 and rearmost water jacket, and between 5&6.
The best part is the block is nice and flat, as is the head. The previous owner had the head worked when the motor was put in and it looks great.
It is going to the machine shop anyway, but prob. will just get a multiangle valve job, and springs checked.
 

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metal head gasket

Sounds like everything's goin good :D Are you going to put in a Metal Head Gasket by any chance :?: :idea:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I am pondering that at the moment. I will have to recheck the block for flatness and get a report from the machine shop before i decide.
Thanks all for the input.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
:D My supra is once again running, it was "just" a blown head gasket. The head was flat, and did not require surfacing, however it did get a port/polish job. The intake got gasket matched and smoothed. The throttle body got its bore honed smooth and polished. and somehow a small pipe plug found its way into the egr passage in the head.
All in all a learning experience for me. I did find out that my motor is the higher compression version and is 0.5mm overbored. The 5mge is a big change from my usual sbc, but the small mods do seem to give a nice return. I have to recheck timing( just put it back where it was prior to BHG), change oil again to make sure all the coolant goo is out, and I will take it out and see how it is above 4000rpm.
It has been great to be able to search the forum for answers to my "stupid questions" as well as seeing if my ideas for modification had been done before, and how they worked out prior to doing it to my car.
Thanks guys,
 
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