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Discussion Starter #1
Im having a hard time deciding how to re-run my wiring to the back. I still havent run my 4awg Lead wire, because I cant find the best spot. I have some much much smaller wire running down the center, under the center console, but I kind of lost my the use of my mount. Where do you guys run all your wiring? Along the sides? Id like to run all new speaker, power, and RCA's, hopefully in one spot. If not, just power on one side, and RCA's on the other.
 

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Theres a space for wires under the left and right door frames. If you take the plastic threshold out at the bottom of the doors there is a place under the carpet.
 

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Unless your buying really nice RCAs, I would suggest keeping them separate from the power wires. Alternator Whine = Fail

There should be plenty of room. Power down one side and RCAs down the other.
It is a little bit more work, but worth it.
 

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Unless your buying really nice RCAs, I would suggest keeping them separate from the power wires. Alternator Whine = Fail

There should be plenty of room. Power down one side and RCAs down the other.
It is a little bit more work, but worth it.
Yeah, makes sense. Plus, having to tear the interior apart like that will give me the opportunity to remove some of the other glass lol.

I took one side off, but it didnt look like there was enough room for anything.

Also, anybody know the color of the wiring to the stock dash speakers? Im not sure if it had the factory amp, but I know it didnt have the factory EQ. Theres 4 wires left over up front, but the P.O twisted them into 2 pairs. Would it hurt my deck if I happened to wire it to the factory amp?
 

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http://forums.celicasupra.com/showthread.php?t=47507

It's a sticky :)

I've got two power wires on driver side, and my RCAs and remote wire on passenger side. I have no speakers wired directly to the HU, all 6 are wired to amps. I'm still running stock rears, but are gonna swap them out. I'd like to redo some of my work, make it more appealing, even though hardly anyone with an opinion I care about looks haha. But hey, it works, and it's loud. WIN
 

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i ran 4g wire thru firewall the the steering shaft (nice rubber grommet to keep water out) and down drive side door fame as mentioned by omarty. it actually fit in the
conduit for the wiring harness running thru there and ever thing went back nice, but i dont
have carpeting or rear seats made running wire real easy. i also have 4 channel amp an ran new speaker wire to that. 25 year old copper and plastic is a lil crappy.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i ran 4g wire thru firewall the the steering shaft (nice rubber grommet to keep water out) and down drive side door fame as mentioned by omarty. it actually fit in the
conduit for the wiring harness running thru there and ever thing went back nice, but i dont
have carpeting or rear seats made running wire real easy. i also have 4 channel amp an ran new speaker wire to that. 25 year old copper and plastic is a lil crappy.
Did you drill through the plate that blots the steering cloumn to the firewall?

Need some ideas where to drill my hole for the 4awg.

Had a little accident the other day....I pissed I let it happen too...Somehow, the shitty wiring I had grounded itself, and began smoking. I went to disconnect to battery, but couldnt in time, and stupidly grabbed the mloten-hot lead wire. I burned donw to the meat. Still havent fully assessed the damage. Wont be able to until I fully regain use of my right hand......

Well, time to do it right! And take the fucking battery out, so my cables donw work their way back to the posts.....again....
 

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been there done that, except for burning my self, on an old blazer i had. you really need a fuse on that line, 30amp or more i use 30amp and dont have blowing issues. neway i didnt have to drill any holes theres a large rubber gromit around the steering shaft and i just shoved it thru from interior to engine bay (less to pull). if i have to get back under there and take a pic i will but get a fuse cause next time u might not have a car.
 

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I pulled my power from B+ through the steering column grommet as mentioned above, but am buying a drill bit to drill through the firewall and pop in a little grommet for a more professional install. I just ran it under the the carpet where it meets the door (along with the remote wire), but It's so thick I can see the wire's impression, so I'm going to run it lower near the seat rails.

Then I ran my RCA's on the passenger side channel like I did with power on the driver's side. (Sub amp only)

And then pulled out all the seats/carpet to run each speaker being careful not to cross paths with any wires in the way.

I upgraded the rear deck speakers already, and the fronts were blown out alpines when i got the car :whatever:. So my gf is getting me new fronts for Christmas :]
 

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Discussion Starter #10
been there done that, except for burning my self, on an old blazer i had. you really need a fuse on that line, 30amp or more i use 30amp and dont have blowing issues. neway i didnt have to drill any holes theres a large rubber gromit around the steering shaft and i just shoved it thru from interior to engine bay (less to pull). if i have to get back under there and take a pic i will but get a fuse cause next time u might not have a car.

I bought an install kit, which came with the lead, connectors, and a fuse. Trying to run only 3 amps. All fairly low wattage. I am planning an alternator upgrade. Hoping mine lasts until then lol. I an planning on using the rear passenger side compartment for an amp/ distribution block. The sub amp will be mounted to my massive box, and the 6x9 amp will have a custom mount lol.
 

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3 amps!! look at the fuse on your sub amplifier i guarantee its at least 25amp fuse at
least match that, or every time you turn radio on you want to replace the main power
fuse. and if your worried about your alternator get a 1/2 farad capacitor or a 1 farad if
your running lots of stuff, install before your distribution block. i have a 1/2 farad and a
4 channel amp running 100 watt per channel and 600 watt sub amp and never get light
fade at night, my alternator is an original Toyota the aluminum tags in Japanese and English
kinda kool i thought had to been rebuilt at some point i dunno
 

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Discussion Starter #12
3 amps!! look at the fuse on your sub amplifier i guarantee its at least 25amp fuse at
least match that, or every time you turn radio on you want to replace the main power
fuse. and if your worried about your alternator get a 1/2 farad capacitor or a 1 farad if
your running lots of stuff, install before your distribution block. i have a 1/2 farad and a
4 channel amp running 100 watt per channel and 600 watt sub amp and never get light
fade at night, my alternator is an original Toyota the aluminum tags in Japanese and English
kinda kool i thought had to been rebuilt at some point i dunno
Yeah, my friends keyboard sucks. I meant 30 amps. Was thinking about a cap.
 
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