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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to do the roadcourse thing this fall, but I'm not sure which pads to use. These are the stock size rotors, just slotted/drilled. i rebuilt the calipers (hope they don't piss themselves).

KVR's OK? A bit pricey, so are they worth it?

d
 

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Do you know how long the sessions/races are?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I think 20-30 minutes a session. i'll get to run as much as I can stand for one day.

on a side note, i rebuilt my calipers as per wes's writeup; i still have a soft pedal, more like no pedal. the calipers were full of crud due to moisture. i glass bead blasted them, replaced the o-ring and dust seal for each, and got new bleeder valves.





i'm back to replacing the booster and master cylinder although i swapped in a spare a few months ago. :32:
 

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That much time/sessions, you need something that will last, and has a nice hard surface for the slotted rotor. KVRs are a pretty good pad, I like the EBC yellows, also....The key will be how many sessions you want out of rotor/pad combo. My Ebay special rotors are already showing more wear than my pads, with a good set of rotors, I could run better pads. Its only $$$$$
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
well, today i picked up a brake booster and master cylinder from a 7M powered cressida. judging by the looks of it, it's the equivalent to a mkiii setup (which billy discourages the use of.)

pics later (gotta clean the shop before i can do the install)
 

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Just an FYI, EBC makes green stuff and red stuff pads for the OEM brakes.
 

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Nothing short of a full Z32 brake setup will be worthy of an agressive trackday. Even cressida brakes with KVR's are going to fade on a trackday where you are going 10/10ths.
 

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I second SupraWes, no matter how good your stock setup is, it just does not have the capability that you need to dissipate heat. Some pads continue to grip at high temperatures, but grip=friction=more heat. Eventually something has to give, if your pads can take it, maybe the rotors or fluid wont..

On a side note, I am liking the Q45 swap I did... I need better front tires now though...
 

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Nothing short of a full Z32 brake setup will be worthy of an agressive trackday. Even cressida brakes with KVR's are going to fade on a trackday where you are going 10/10ths.
I second SupraWes, no matter how good your stock setup is, it just does not have the capability that you need to dissipate heat. Some pads continue to grip at high temperatures, but grip=friction=more heat. Eventually something has to give, if your pads can take it, maybe the rotors or fluid wont..

On a side note, I am liking the Q45 swap I did... I need better front tires now though...
It would be interesting to see the comparison of the Z31/Q45 caliper against the Z32 caliper both in conjunction with the MPV disc on a trackday session.

What difference other than pure clamping power is there between the 2 piston floating caliper and fixed 4 piston caliper?

Other advantages with the 4 piston calipers is even pad pressure on both sides of the disc thus more even pad wear and the there is no worries of seized sliders. What else?

Wolfgang, you should seriously source a set of '87-'89 Starion front hubs. Drill to 4 bolt and machine the OD down to fit the MPV disc. Enabling you to make your wheels hub centric.
 

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SS flex lines can cure soft pedal (not always, but often, and did it for me)
 

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What track will you be going to, when, and with which organization?


Based on your location I would guess either little taledega or Barber, of which niether have any real area for you to cool your brakes so you will build heat really fast.(silent curse at allen wilson if it's Barber) So if you are going to be running those tracks you're pretty much screwed, I know I was running brembo rotors and pbr pads and started felling the brake fade after my third 30 minute session.
 

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RSDEO: Since the caliper floats pressure is always even side to side... I think the Z32 would have increased brake bias, and give a sensitive brake pedal, but not 100% sure as I have not done any measurements or had any experience. If I were to do it again I would probably go Z32. If its worth doing, its worth overdoing right? If I had a clue where to source a set of starion hubs, I would look into that. I want my wheels to be hubcentric again. Were there any seal issues with the starion hubs?
 

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Unfortunately pressure is not even on both sides of a floating caliper who's pistons are only on one side. Just look at worn pad as for evidence. One is always worn more than the other. The fixed caliper with pistons on both sides squeeze the disc from both sides. I've only had to completed one brake job on my Tacoma (4 piston fixed calipers stock) since new. I observed both pads had even wear for both calipers.

Take a piece of paper, hold it against a smooth wall with two fingers from one hand and pull the paper out with the other hand. Then take a piece of paper and hold it between two fingers from the same hand and pull it out with the other hand. You'll see which has the stronger grip.

Brake caliper choice depends on personal braking requirements. That's up to you.

You can find the Starion hubs here.
 

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Bookmarked, thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
OK, new question. I now have cressida fronts and cross-drilled rears on the stock MC and brake booster. I do have braided lines.

What pads should I go with? Matched sets, or mismatch due to the difference in type of rotors? I'm also having problems finding the correct part#'s for the same manufacturer of discs for the two different chassis calipers. Wes, it would be cool if you edited the cressida upgrade write-up with the PBR and Performance Friction part #'s.

I need to get them soon because track day is less than two weeks away, and I still have other issues with the car I have to deal with.

I'll keep searching.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
This is what I found at Autozone:

88 cressida front - PFC carbon-metallic - part# 0207-20
85 supra rear - only duralast pads:SM130 (1):

EDIT
I just ordered the KVR M7129 (rear) and M7127 (front) pads. I wanted to try the PFC's, but couldn't find the rears
 

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Have you ever came over the top of a hill going faster then the speed limit on I95 and suddenly see radar setup and hit the brakes hard and you forget about the cars that are trying to keep up and then you see them passing you in the medians' grass?
That is me and my 4 piston calipers with SS lines and good big rotors with aggressive pads.
You can really feel the g-forces against the seat belt. I swear I could launch someone through the windshield if they did not have their seat belt on.
 

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The whole point of brakes is heat absorption/dissipation and surface area. You can change calipers all day long, but it won't change the amount of heat the rotors can absorb or dissipate. A recently-assembled sliding caliper setup will provide even-enough clamping, it's the 40-50k mile intervals where they start to stick and get uneven. In fact, the sliding calipers should hypothetically introduce less heat to the brake fluid (I've glazed pads, but never boiled my brake fluid).

The MPV's are THICK rotors, they absorb GREAT, but they don't dissipate heat any faster. I had trouble with my brakes in the RAIN last year, and I run the q45/mpv setup. Mind you, that's a well-modded 7m at 13lbs driving at 9/10ths, but I still had to step it back to 7/10ths every few laps to let the brakes come back. Once you get to that level and want to keep these rotors, you really must take the next step and provide some pressurized air method of heat dissipation (ducting from the air dam to the rotor backing plate).

I'm going to look into this before the track day, and see if I can't come up with something cheap and easy, and I'll share the wealth with you cats when I come down. I'm praying for weather in the 50's, else I expect I'll be back in "OH SHIT" territory every third or fourth lap.

--billyM
 

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The whole point of brakes is heat absorption/dissipation and surface area. You can change calipers all day long, but it won't change the amount of heat the rotors can absorb or dissipate. A recently-assembled sliding caliper setup will provide even-enough clamping, it's the 40-50k mile intervals where they start to stick and get uneven. In fact, the sliding calipers should hypothetically introduce less heat to the brake fluid (I've glazed pads, but never boiled my brake fluid).

The MPV's are THICK rotors, they absorb GREAT, but they don't dissipate heat any faster. I had trouble with my brakes in the RAIN last year, and I run the q45/mpv setup. Mind you, that's a well-modded 7m at 13lbs driving at 9/10ths, but I still had to step it back to 7/10ths every few laps to let the brakes come back. Once you get to that level and want to keep these rotors, you really must take the next step and provide some pressurized air method of heat dissipation (ducting from the air dam to the rotor backing plate).

I'm going to look into this before the track day, and see if I can't come up with something cheap and easy, and I'll share the wealth with you cats when I come down. I'm praying for weather in the 50's, else I expect I'll be back in "OH SHIT" territory every third or fourth lap.

--billyM
Suggestion- I've seen this done on a few cars, one of which was a beautiful BMW M3 we did an overall paint job on. Anyway... if your looking for a good way to make a brake cooler set up here's an idea.

Step 1:

Go to Home Depot/Lowes and buy HVAC Flex tubing(not the tin foil crap). They sell some of it that's made of a mylar this type of thing...




Now Step 2: Now for the Intakes- on the intake you can leave it with just the open pipe or something like this
the trick is finding a fitting the right size. We're lucky with our Supra's front bumper, it gives you decent spaces to mount up intakes. This step requires a small amount of fix & finish/fabrication.

Step 3: Outlet vents: This requires the most careful thought. A vent/fitting like this of the proper size can be used.
Obviously this requires some fabrication but these materials are cheap and easy to cut/bend/work with.

Step 4: VERY IMPORTANT! You must make sure you secure everything well and that you have proper clearance. If not the first bump or full lock will f***ing destroy all your work...and nobody likes that:32::laugh:

-This is something I've seen done, if you have a bit of skill you can end up with a really nice custom set-up. The best part being that all of this stuff is cheap. Estimated cost of doing a pair for the front brakes is about $75 for everything.

I intend on doing this to my car soon, so I'll do some additional research at the stores on price and specifically what is needed.

So keep an eye of for a write up on that in the near future...a write up with lots of pics:thumbsup:...maybe even a sticky:naughty:

haha anyway hope this helps.

-Blaze-
 
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