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Discussion Starter #1
I had one pop recently and figured this would be good info to come up on a SEARCH.

Invoice description is HOSE, WATER, often called Coolant Bypass Hose.
It runs from under the thermostat housing to under the intake manifold, right along the engine. There is a clip for it back about 6 inches behind the thermostat housing and really pain in the ass clamps on each end. You have to unscrew them loose, then they become a 'spring loaded' clamp you have to move over each nipple...

When my stock 23 year old hose blew, toyota red dripped on the floor directly under the 'EFI' if you were looking straignt down on the intake manifold.



List is $25.92.

Ken
 

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Should be on your 20 year maintenance list. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, what I think is going on is it's one of those parts designed in there so it blows, you loose your coolant, you can't pull over, you blow the headgasket, and the car gets totalled becasue dealer repair is $1500+.

Amazing that that hose lasts for so long for sure. Says a lot for Toyota parts.

This Suicide hose is just one of seven hoses that carry coolant.
A week later, one of the ones that goes to the heater valve closest to the engine blew on me as well, so the tip is you need to replace all of them if one goes.
Les in NM (hot) says he replaces the hoses just about every year to preserve his beautiful 7mgte. In the heat down there, the 'soft' rubber hose gets hard in just six months.

Ken
 

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I replace all my coolant hoses (including those going to the heater core) every time I do a timing belt. Cheap insurance and really easy to do.

This is one hose we should try to find a perminent replacement for.
 

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well one reason that this particular hose goes bad is when your valve covers/cam towers leak oil on them, the rubber hoses will last 3 times as long if you don't have any oil residue ruining the compound.
 

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rsdeo said:
This is one hose we should try to find a perminent replacement for.
...i've just run a standard piece of hose between the two ends. it's not like there's a complicated bend or anything.
 

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I used a standard hose from Carquest #19098 for mine last year. Had to cut it down to size, but it had a comparable bend. I had the intake off at the time so it was MUCH easier.
 

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Rich
Any chance that u have a replacement p/n for the crankcase to drivers side valve cover hose?
 

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I think the only heater hoses on a 5m I havn't been able to replace with just standard unbent heater hose is the upper and lower rad ones (for obvious reasons). I replace every single heater hose on any mk2 I get as soon as possible. Once you've had the joy of replacing a suicide hose on a 40 degree celcius day in direct sunlight on a mountain pass highway in the middle of nowhere you'll do the same. :(
 

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This hose under the intake is easy to change from under the car, once the car is lifted and the lower engine cover is removed. It would be somewhat difficult on the side of the road.
 

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Yeah, the other one under intake is called a moth%$#*&er hose, If I remember the correct technical terminology
 

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Discussion Starter #13
CarFreek said:
Yeah, the other one under intake is called a moth%$#*&er hose, If I remember the correct technical terminology
Great! Probably an air hose?
(suicide close to the motor, then two others - moth%$#*&er hose #1 and moth%$#*&er hose #2)

Ken
 

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Dangerous Ken said:
Great! Probably an air hose?
(suicide close to the motor, then two others - moth%$#*&er hose #1 and moth%$#*&er hose #2)

Ken

What,the tiny little bastards that go to the throttle body ?
 

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Junkie said:
What,the tiny little bastards that go to the throttle body ?
I relocated the TB hose that comes out of the ISCV and then bends around and runs beside the fuel rail and then down between two of teh runners. Now it just runs out of the iscv and curls around below the intake manifold and joins up. So much simpler and direct.
 

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nope, theres at least 3 coolant lines that run under neath or through the intake. None of them are easy to get at.
 

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StanS said:
Rich
Any chance that u have a replacement p/n for the crankcase to drivers side valve cover hose?
i think i do.. took 2 trips to the stealership i mean dealership for them to find it

this was on my 82 part # 17341-43030 cost$37.66 OUCH
 

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how hard would it be to get steel bradied hoses to go in these tight spots? the only thing worse that chaging that hose is the top starter bolt, as they put a nut on the other end of the damn thing. my fix> do the bottom one up real tight and throw the top one away,
 

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For the suicide hose, how do you propose to secure it??? The rubber suicide hose is held in by some inexpensive clamps from the factory (unless you've changed your hose & upgraded the clamps), they DO NOT screw into the 2 ends. So now the hose is taken care of, but the 2 ends are now weaknesses (when was the last time you saw braided hoses held on the ends by clamps??).
 

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Well at least all of the intake side ones usually last a long time and don't get covered in oil like the one on the exhaust side. You can get cloth braided hose btw Mr Eng, and you use just normal heater hose clamps to attach them. Its what toyota uses for factory oil lines for oil coolers.

Actually me and Slip have the starter and tranny removal process down to an art, not a challange for us anymore.

For the starter, what you do is jack up the back of the tranny (disconect the center bolts on the tranny crossmember first or you'll tear the mounts). This makes alot more room between the engine and firewall. Then you get one guy underneath with a wrench on the nut end, then another on top with 2 wrenchs to crack it, then one single rachet wrench to back it out. Voila, you should have both of them done in 5 minutes like that. You can get the top bellhousing bolts like that too.
 
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