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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Back to the body issues. Drivers side cowl is next. Looking at the engine side of the firewall I think "not too bad".



Then I looked up in the footwell. Oh Crap!





More cutting out of rusty metal and here is what's left.





Made a new piece for the lower firewall



Then the cowl floor got a new section.







Then the upper firewall got patched.




Same as the passenger side the upper footwell was the most challenging part to make


 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
The footwell under the clutch master cylinder took a beating from a few leaking cylinders over the years soaking the carpet padding with brake fluid. Swiss cheese!




Cut out the bad and replace.


Still some pinholes in my welds that need fixed(sharpie circles)

Had to patch around the kick panel mount



Metal work done here just need to prime and smooth
 
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Moving on to some rust I knew about for a while on the drivers quarter in front of the wheel. Looks like it started at the munting hole for the rocker trim and expanded from there.



Once I cut out the bad section I was surprised that the metal underneath was in perfect shape. Probably due to the rustproofing that was put in the car by either the southeast Toyota distributor or the dealer before I took delivery of the car in January 1982. I wiped some of the rustproofing away and found clean factory primed surfaces.



Forming the patch panel here. A couple of breaks to make the body line and some shrinking on the edge to curve it. Had to apply some persuasion over a pipe to get the rocker part curved.



Almost done with the new part and comparing to the old rusty part. Still have to put the rocker trim mounting hole in.




All welded in. Have a couple of pinholes to weld up shown by the sharpie circles. Got the rocker trim hole in there.




Epoxy primed and filler work done ready for final prime.



All primed and ready to go for overall repaint.

 

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Beautiful work! Looks factory! My '83 is gonna need a lot of rust repair. Not asking for all your "secrets", but just wondering how you fabricate those amazing looking panels yourself?? Do you have a lot of expensive metalworking tools? I would love to be able to do half as well!

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Thanks for the compliments. I don't have any secrets just some learned skills that have come over the years and multiple projects. Some cars you can just buy a patch panel and start with that, but for our orphaned Supras that is just not gonna happen. Probably the most expensive tools I have acquired over the years are a good mig welder, a 36" medium quality metal break and a good Lancaster style shrinker/stretcher. I am thinking maybe $1500 to $1800 invested. Also i have a basic set of body hammers and dolly assortment. A good 5" or 6" vice anchored to a solid bench is a must have for any shop. Then there are the other shop tools like an air compressor capable of running the sanding/grinding tools. You got me thinking of all the different tools I use and I started adding it up in my head. I probably have a fair chunk of change invested in tools but not a lot of individually expensive tools.

So a after finishing the quarter patch I moved to the back of the car and disassembled the lights and bumper to prep that area for repaint. SURPRISE more rust!




This was totally hidden under the bumper.
So if you have been following the thread you know what comes next. Cut out the bad.



Replace with new. This piece was mostly simple bends with a little flap at the bottom welded in



For the outer patch I started with a chipboard template to give me a idea of what a flat piece of metal will want to do. You can see the bend lines and cut outs to get the metal to go around the corner.



And after a bunch of hammering and bending here is what I ended up with.




Here is the rear patch. Fairly simple part.



All welded in smoothed as much as I can. A little bit of filler required to finish off.



Epoxy primed, filled, sanded smooth and finish coat of epoxy primer



This patch was one of the more difficult patches to shape but I was not too concerned since it is totally under the bumper cover.
 

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Well, as others and myself have said, you appear to be a "Master of Metal"!!! Those panels look like something you bought rather than made! What I wouldn't give to be blessed with your gift! And thank you for documenting it for us! Keep it going! That car is gonna be gorgeous inside and out!! So, you're the original owner?? Amazing!
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Moving on to the right rear quarter I found it was not quite as bad as the left, but still needed work. The lower seam is hard to see in the photo where it is perforated and bulging. I had replaced some of the inner panel in 2008 opting to use panel bond adhesive to install it since the outer was still solid and I did not want to weld up under the car. The upper part of the inner patch is doing fine but the lower seam failed and the outer panel rotted. The rear panel also rotted just like the left side.



I sliced the lower outer panel off using a thin cutoff wheel so that I could weld it back on after repairs to the flange.



I ran the salvaged part through the bead blast cabinet to thoroughly clean it and see what was left. Not too bad. The rustproofing that came on the car was pretty deep down in the drop off and protected the inside well. The rear panel will get new metal patch.



The inner panel needed some surgery.




After patching the flange on the outer I welded it back in and welded in the rear panel patch.




All primed and smoothed ready to go for paint.

 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Roof bodywork done and primed with last two coats of SPI red epoxy primer which will get a final blocking before paint. Color of this primer looks almost like the terracotta finish color!




Bottoms of the doors is next. Ugh!
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Since I am done welding on the rear of the car I decided to put the fuel tank back in the car to get it out of the way. Buttoning things up back there I looked at my fuel filler splash shield. What a sorry piece of plastic. All the other plastic shields on the tank are mint. I have repaired it a couple times with metal riveted in but the plastic is just crumbling away.



Is it just mine or does everybody's look like this? The reason I ask is so I know whether to even bother to look for a good one or just make one out of metal.
 

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They usually break around that hole, but that one is particularly bad
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Tackled the drivers door next. I had replaced the lower skin during the last resto in 2008. Rusting again!



Had to cut off some of the outer skin to gain access to the inner as it was rusting as well. You can now see what was left of the inner door.



Made some new metal patches for the inner door




Then made a new outer skin patch and tacked it in place.



Fully welded it in and promptly warped the crap out of it. That will teach me to slow down the welding and cool things off. Took a while to get that fixed!
Hammer and dolly with some shrinking disc use to get rid of the oil can.

Flange all folded over and finished.



Last time I used panel bond on the lower seam. That did not hold up. This time I am welding then flooding the seams with epoxy primer before seam sealer.

All done primed and seam sealed.




This was the better of the two doors. Passenger side is next.
 

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This thing is gonna be way nicer than my pile but luckily I'm still rust free.

Great job with the metal work.
 

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Yes, this car is gonna be amazing! So you restored it back in 2008?? Wow! You're definitely inspiring me to restore my newly acquired "rustbucket" I purchased from Michigan! What was I thinking?? Lol.


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Discussion Starter · #37 · (Edited)
Passenger door next. I think this will just clean up! Hah!




This door has rust extending much further back than the driver's side. Bigger patch panels. Oh well I have plenty of metal stock.




Made some inner door patches and welded them in




Outer skin patch fabricated and started fitting and welding



All welded in and ready for epoxy primer and some filler.



I was more careful welding this one and did not cause the warping I did on the driver door. Learn as you go!

Forgot the finished pictures!

Bodyworked and primed but not seam sealed yet.


 
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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Finally getting to make things pretty. Cut in the cowl and front of the door jambs with base/clear so that I can get the front fenders bolted back on and prep them for paint.






Once the paint was cured I went about putting the wire harness back through the cowl. The grommets were in bad shape so I scoured the internet for a good replacement since Toyota is of no help for these. I found some at Speartech that are almost exact. The only problem is installing them over the wire harness connectors since they have to be installed from the front of the harness. I tried stretching the grommet over the connectors but thought I would tear them so I depinned the wires from each connector and taped the metal terminals to the harness to cover any sharp edges and then lubed up the harness with Fantastik cleaner and slid them along. Snap lots of pictures of each connector as you go so the wires get back in the same location on each connector. Took a few hours and some cursing to get this done but it is possible. Harness got cleaned and a new grommet installed at the same time!

 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I ran into an issue getting more basecoat in PPG DBC for the Terracotta 3A7 paint code. Apparently PPG has removed the paint formula for this from their database that the jobbers use to mix from. They still have the code in the cheap line of base and can do a single stage. I don't like the cheap base and I am not going back to single stage paint. I still had the gallon can from the last restoration and it had the mixing formula under the label. I researched why they removed the formula and discovered that the DMD624 Violet toner has been discontinued. The local PPG store suggested that I bring in the old can and they would try and match it. They found that they still had all the necessary toners including the violet in their paint rack and could mix up another gallon for me. Yeah! So nearly $500 later I had my new gallon of base. I am posting the formula in the pictures for reference if anyone else runs into this problem. While the violet toner may be officially discontinued it is still around for now.


 

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Glad you were able to get it mixed up. Thanks again for sharing this build. Gonna look incredible when it's done!

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