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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I've yet to make one of these. As usual I'm pretty quiet on the forum and when I talk it's usually through pm. I recently blew the oil seals out of my ct26 and decided it was time to go to a different turbo. Though I have a turbo kit together finally, the turbo is an ebay joke; but the kit will allow me to drop a different turbo on once I blow this one up (I won't be posting a picture of the turbo... hahaha).

I'm relocating my battery to the back of the car, I bought a red top optima and a taylor aluminum battery box. I bought a Ron R FFIM, with a Mustang 75mm throttle body. I bought lexus is300 coil packs. I'm still running 3" exhaust. I'll running 2.5" intercooler piping between the turbo and intercooler and 3" between the intercooler and intake manifold. I'm running rc 550 injectors, a lexus afm, aeromotive fpr, safc II and a walbro fuel pump. I have a Godspeed mkIII radiator. I have a 2.0 mm titan motorsports mhg with arp headstuds. I have cp pistons, crower rods, (stock crank) and the engine was rebuilt 6k+ miles ago. I have a beach performance oil pan (it has side kickouts and baffling with trap doors. It holds 8 quarts.) I'm running a true trac differential with a set of 3:73 gears and will soon have an r154 with an act clutch and stock flywheel. Blah blah blah, I'll add more to this as I remember ;).

Here's a teaser pic, I'll update with pics as things go together.


Tony
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Supramania's "mkIII parts for sale" is your best bet on finding a used ffim. That's where I bought mine. Just expect to spend a pretty penny, I have $800 wrapped up between the manifold, throttle body, tps adapter, throttle cable, and alternator drop down.

Here's some pictures of my pan when it was with Wes.







I had to do some cutting, to make it not hit the oil pump... and when I tried to set the engine in the car, the oil pan hit the cross member! :/
It was $320 after shipping.

Tony
 

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Discussion Starter #5
not too bad of pricing but that sucks that you had to squeeze her in like that and cut a little bit.
Yeah, It kind of pissed me off at the time.

not too bad of pricing but that sucks that you had to squeeze her in like that and cut a little bit. Is the flex of the motor mounts make the pan hit again under torque?
It just barely misses it. When I first put it in it did, but the next time the engine was out I made more clearance. The bit of rubbing it did didn't damage the pan at all.

The engine is back in the car. I finally have my r154 in, I need to measure the trans to diff length and have a driveshaft made. I'm working on a cheap intake. I still need to run my power/ground wires and then clear up a few loose ends. Once the driveshaft comes I'll probably throw the car on the car lift, install it, and build a pipe to go between the downpipe and the rest of my exhaust.

I'm hoping it'll be running in about 2 weeks from today; that gives me two weekends and I can work on it a night or two on the weekdays.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Nice start! Will be good to see the finished project.

Chris,
I've had the 7m in the car and running for 2+ years now. But I'm finally making some major modifications. I'm interested to see how much different the throttle response will be since I've now gone from a 2.5 in to about 3 in (75mm).

I'm picking up my a/c lines tomorrow, then the manifold, alternator, i/c pipping, etc. will be bolted up. I mounted my kill switch yesterday and ran my power wire the day before. I stopped by my local driveshaft shop and gave them my measurements for the driveshaft. The only thing I'm missing after that is a cold start injector line (the stock one won't reach anymore...). Now it's just a matter of putting it all together!

I feel like build threads are more appealing to look at when there are pictures, but I'm embarrassed by the POS turbo I have on the car... Maybe I'll just blur it out ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Drive shaft is done! $250 for a one piece steel.



Things are coming together; a/c lines are done, power/ground wires and kill switch are hooked up, lexus is300 coil packs are wired up.

I'm installing the other differential flange, the drive shaft, and rewelding my new downpipe this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #11

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Sorry for the shitty pics...






Driveshaft and new diff flange are installed. I got the slave, reverse lights, spedo cable, etc. hooked up.

I need to finish up the exhaust and then all I have left is pcv hoses, idle air control hose, power sterring hose, and that's it!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I got the car close enough that I could crank it over and see if it'd run. After 20-30 seconds of cranking it started to fire and I was able to get it to idle. I'm short a couple of things still, but it's good news to know that I wired the is300 coil packs right and everything else seems to be doing decent. Hopefully It'll be all finished up after this weekend.
 

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Sorry for the shitty pics...






Driveshaft and new diff flange are installed. I got the slave, reverse lights, spedo cable, etc. hooked up.

I need to finish up the exhaust and then all I have left is pcv hoses, idle air control hose, power sterring hose, and that's it!
Glad to see i made your build thread LOL. If you don't put a picture of your engine bay up i'm going to :p. You did a good job and the turbo you have will do just fine for now.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Glad to see i made your build thread LOL. If you don't put a picture of your engine bay up i'm going to :p. You did a good job and the turbo you have will do just fine for now.
Made my build thread?

I'll post up a picture of the engine bay... but I'm blurring out that piece of shit that you call a turbo, lol...
 

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If you look at the picture of your car on the lift i'm sitting in the chair.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I got part of the lines hooked up for relocating my PS reservoir. One of the lines wasn't long enough, so I'm working on that. The fitting going into the block for the turbo oil feed line was leaking oil when I started it up, so I ordered another fitting; hopefully that'll fix it. I'm going to finish the exhaust this weekend, do a pressure test on my intercooler piping and then hopefully start it up again once the new fitting comes. I may be dynoing the car in the near future, we'll see. >.<

If you look at the picture of your car on the lift i'm sitting in the chair.
Lol. I noticed that when I took the picture, but I didn't understand what you had ment when you said "made your build thread".
 

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REPLACE THE ALLEN HEAD BOLT HARDWARE ON THE T3 CAMBER PLATES - THEY WILL RUST I have the same camber plates, and after 3 years of driving they have surface rust & corrossion. They're not a quality bolt. I would suggest replacing them to keep them looking nice & functional.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
REPLACE THE ALLEN HEAD BOLT HARDWARE ON THE T3 CAMBER PLATES - THEY WILL RUST I have the same camber plates, and after 3 years of driving they have surface rust & corrossion. They're not a quality bolt. I would suggest replacing them to keep them looking nice & functional.
I'll make sure to do that sometime in the near future. I've only had them on for 3-4 months and car is stored in a garage.

Here are a couple shots of the engine bay:





I'll have a kind of 'spark plug valley cover' in the near future... so the entire mess of coil pack wires won't look like such crap...

Let me know what you think! But yes, I already know the turbo is a POS..!

Tony
 
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