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Stiff shocks/struts will make all the difference in the world. I have raced this entire season on completely blown struts, and it (no pun intended) blows to have scarily unpredictable weight-transfer and horrid wheelchop... You can grab a set of TokicoHP's on ebay right now for a very reasonable price. If you would like to order from a more replutable dealer:

http://www.lightningmotorsports.com/tokico.htm
Scroll to the very bottom, $127.04 for front pair, free shipping.

http://www.lightningmotorsports.com/tokico2.htm
Again, scroll to bottom, $72.16 for rear pair, free shipping.

The price will probably be about the same after you pay for shipping on that ebay set, so it's really up to you. I just ordered a pair of HP's for my front end from that dealer, will tell you guys how everything works out.

Go out some time, and try to brake to the very limit. Hit the pedal hard to set your weigh to the front and push into it until you get some lockup. Let up immediately, and do it again, if one corner in particular seems to be locking up every time, and it seems to be too early, or if you are getting front end pull, you might need to look into brakes. Keep in mind, when you set weight hard to the front, both the rears will have some lockup tendency, but its pretty close to the front lockup threshold.

If you are serious about autoX, and want to stay in stock classification, you cannot beat the performance/price ratio of the Kuhmo's. 225/50/14, with a very hoosier-esque grippiness.

You know, I am having a little trouble thinking what would be a good upgrade suggestion for you, and that is due to one fact. You still havent told us what class you want to run. Pretty much for me, I have to run stock. If I move to anything else, I will end up making excuses like, "well, once I put the kind of money into my car as these guys do". I think it is useless to run a class unless you can max the car out in it, doing every possible mod. Shit, I'm in stock and all Ive been able to afford thusfar is 50,000 mile street tires (where hoosiers are the limit) and some non-adjustable rear shocks, and am just now, 10 events later, getting some front struts...

Stock Costs:
Good struts/shocks: $200-400
Swaybar: I dont personally think it is neccessary, but $280-300
Competetive Tires: $450-700

STS:
I believe is useless for us. Allows pretty much everything the local import scene has. Racing pedals, shiftkits, racing seats, vtec controllers, fitting up to a massive 225 width tires on their 15x5.5" rims. Plus you cant run race tires. I personally will stick with Gstock and kuhmos, instead of trying to take on one of those ACR neons on azenis.

D-Street Prepared:
To max your car in this category, you are looking at alot of money, not to mention VERY fast cars. Someone in the community managed to net a good spot nationally last year I believe, I'm sure they could give you an idea of what it costs.

--BillyM
Viva La Gstock!
 

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Well I'll be damned...

Thats what I get for never looking into it...

Thanks for fixing my mistake.

As for being in the right/wrong class... Gstock all the way baby. I think the mk2 has it in it. We will see in upcoming years. Next season I will have my car maxed out for Gstock, Hoosiers, front swaybar, the whole shebang. I will also start running for points and attending large devisional events. The new celicaGT is pretty much dominating, but hopefully I can out-drive some or all of them...

--BillyM
Viva La Gstock!
 
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