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I've been wondering what's causing my '86 to misfire and fall on it's face at idle as well as the horrible acceleration. Couldn't help but notice there's a new ticking sound coming from the coil/igniter as well, really hoping that's not what's failing because I've heard of the dreadful search it can be to find another, any advice/help would be awesome, thanks guys
 

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Try ebay and this site for a used one. I keep a backup ignitor in my rear cargo.
 

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I've been wondering what's causing my '86 to misfire and fall on it's face at idle as well as the horrible acceleration. Couldn't help but notice there's a new ticking sound coming from the coil/igniter as well, really hoping that's not what's failing because I've heard of the dreadful search it can be to find another, any advice/help would be awesome, thanks guys
Check the coil wire that goes to the distributor, also make sure the coil it self is well grounded. If you're hearing noises that sounds like high voltage leak, this is common on failed wires.

Poor grounding can mimic failure also.

What you're describing does sound like a failed coil or coil wire, but check all possible connections and go from that point forward.
 

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Typically an when an ignitor fails...you would experience the engine shutting down a couple of times then able to restart...then fails completely without warning not long after...

Thats with an original ignitor from the factory...
 

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What Arch describe also happend to me in 1990.
As a preventive maintenance, it is possible to open up the igniter and replace the dryed-up thermal compound paste between the transistor and case. Because when it fails from overtemp, that is it.
 

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What Arch describe also happend to me in 1990.
As a preventive maintenance, it is possible to open up the igniter and replace the dryed-up thermal compound paste between the transistor and case. Because when it fails from overtemp, that is it.

Wow, never thought of that, but it makes sense!
 

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What Arch describe also happend to me in 1990.
As a preventive maintenance, it is possible to open up the igniter and replace the dryed-up thermal compound paste between the transistor and case. Because when it fails from overtemp, that is it.
THIS!!!!
This is the best thing you can do for your 3 decades old igniters.
The heat sink compound has dried out and is no longer doing its very important job.
The case is heavily finned for a reason.
Keep it fresh and the igniter should last forever.
 

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Computer / electronics parts store.
Used for CPU (processors) and power transistors.
 

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OK, I know about the thermal paste since I have used it when replacing the processer in my HP laptop. But I am lost as to where we are talking about using it. The igniter/coil sits just behind the fuse block. Are we talking about opening up the coil, which is on top, or the cast aluminum housing it sits on that has the cooling fins?
Thanks in advance,

Bob
 

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Also, could someone post a photo of the "check engine connector" that the manual says is located near the distributor. I found three connectors that are not connected to anything. Two have rubber caps, and one does not. Is one of those the "check engine connector"?

Bob
 

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Thermal paste to use when opening up the ignitor...NOT the coil

IF you have owned the Supra for a while, you probably have a non original ignitor, which generally last longer then the factory installed one...my lasted to 75k then died...engine stalled once or twice restarted got home then DOA...
 

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Thanks to all for the info. I purchased the car in 1987 when it had around 35,000 miles. Now has 184,000, and I do not ever recall changing the coil or igniter. Perhaps my shop did at some time when other work was being done; I will have to check the receipts.
 

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connectors.jpg

OK, when all else fails, refer to the literature! My 1984 wiring diagram shows that the check engine connector is yellow and has two wires going into it, one yellow-black and one brown. So I believe of the three shown in the photo it is the one on the left with the rubber cap. The one with a cap and only one wire seems to be the OX Check connector, and the one with no cap and three wires is the EFI Service connector.

Am I correct?

And yes I do have both a factory service manual and a Haynes manual. Both show the same poor drawing of the connector that I feel is pretty much worthless as far as being able to identify which one is which. A photo would have been much better.

BTW, I would certainly like to have a cap for the one that is missing, if anyone out there has a spare they would be willing to part with.

Thanks,
Bob
 

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Bob yes correct and there is a cap mounted on the strut tower for the capless connector...

IIRC the connected is marked E and T1 I think??
 

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Well, I'm beginning to believe in Divine intervention. The missing cap had popped off the side of the shock tower and was laying on top of the frame rail. Probably has been there for years! Thanks for the help.
 
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